Most companies don't break down prices. The price is for the total installed system, including labor and materials. You could lower the price a bit if you had them reuse old/existing materials, but to be honest I would advise against that. Most of the time it's better just to have a complete installation. The existing slab may not be in good condition. You'll want to get all model numbers of everything. You were not given an indoor air handler model number. I would advise you to get another couple estimates from recommended, respected companies. I would not ignore the possibility that a repair can be made, but if the leak is in the outdoor unit, the system may need to be replaced. I would be hesitant to replace only the indoor section as well since it's best to have matching components rated to work with each other. Have you considered replacing with a heat pump to avoid costly electric heat?

To answer your question, my opinion at this point is, since you've spent the money, continue to use the unit and don't worry. In 35 years of doing this type of work, I have experienced thousands of this type of service call where the unit performed for many more years without needing another charge. I still service some units over 30 years old where the customer refuses to have them replaced, that never need a re-charge Personally, I don't think 10 psi of refrigerant loss on an older unit is that big a loss. It is only a short shot of gas to bring it back up to full charge. I certainly am not a fan of dye testing, especially on that small of a drop in charge. I would have performed a halide or electronic leak detector search if I suspected a leak on that unit. That would pick up the most minute leak. That's not to say the technician was less than adequate, it just means his technique was different than mine. He also has most likely seen many units where that is all that was needed. FYI, A dirty coil could cause the pressure to drop that much. Also, with the amount of recycled copper in use, the refrigerant can very likely leak through the pours of the copper tubing. Units made in the past 15 years or so are more susceptible to that since the copper is not as dense as that used in much older units. I've tested that myself by weighing equal pieces of copper tubing, the older is much heavier. Also, more aluminum is used in the refrigerant circuit than was on older units. A proper charge of oil and refrigerant helps to minimize that. What you can do now, to help you determine if you have a real problem (depending on your DIY skills)....look for evidence of oil spots anywhere along the refrigerant lines, especially at joints. If they have any age to them, a small amount of dirt would stick there. Also, right now would be a good time to get 2 thermometers and at the plenum, check the return air and the supply air temperatures. You should see somewhere between a 15-20 degree temperature difference. Make sure the filter is clean. Make sure there is condensation coming out the drain tube. Also, at the outside unit, check the air coming out and make sure it is hotter than the outside air. These are all indicators the unit is most likely cooling fine. A precise determination would of course require more trained detail. If you start seeing a marked change a few weeks from now, from what you observe now, then you can suspect a leak. You don't have to do this every day, but as often to satisfy your curiosity. Also, if you start seeing ice form on the lines you can suspect a lower charge. There are other things that could cause that but it is an indicator of a low charge. All that said, it doesn't mean you don't have a tiny leak however, you now have some tools to help you determine whether it is a possibility or not. Look at it this way, most likely it will be some time before you need another recharge. Something else will most likely go wrong. You now have an early warning that your unit is aging and will need replacement sooner or later. You have bought some time to prepare for that day!!!

This is a brand new system, chances to have a leak is very small because the builder does not like that either. any problem with the house will waste their time and money. To find out if there is a leak is not that easy, especilly if the leak is a small one. However, assume you do not have HVAC gauges, but you can do this: watch/check the temperature of the large pipe near outside condenser, should be cold and wet. check it every day at the same time of the day (means at the same outside temp). If it gets warmer, you have a problem, or possible leak. Also check the temp difference between incoming cold air and return air inside your house (again same time of the day,use the same register). they should be the same always(around 16-20). if not, there is a problem.

All very interestng arguments; however, I am convinced that all the CFC hype is just so much mfr BS just to get new patent royalties and to charge more for equipment. EPA and other gov't agencies don't care a hoot about atmospheric CFC's. My brother lives in a large Virginia city. Their City refuse collection department requires junk refrigerators to be placed by the curb by a specific early morning hour and the disposer must call a number before a specific time to report a refrigerator on the curb for pick up. He told me - and I believe him- that he placed an old refrigerator which was still fully charged with F12 by the curb, called per the City's rules. Soon afterwards, a city vehicle pulled up outside, a man went to the refrigerator for three or four minutes and left. He walked out to see what the man did. He found that the city employee had cut the refrigerant line and dumped all the F12 and had placed a sticker on the refrigerator that read "No Freon". Later that day, a truck arrived, loaded the refrigerator and hauled it away. I have access to a municipal refuse disposal site. County trucks pick up refrigerators from various county public refuse collection sites and haul them to the county refuse disposal site. They are picked up with a machine that regularly damages the refrigerant systems. The refrigerators are off-loaded at the county disposal site by dumping them off the truck. Heavy equipment is used to push the refrigerators - along with the washing machines, driers, bicycles, etc. - into a pile about thirty feet high. Periodically, a large truck comes and hauls all the crushed junk to some recycle center elsewhere. NONE of the refrigerant is evacuated for recyle. I filed a report, nothing ever became of it!! Likewise, junk automobiles go to the junk yards, I don't regularly go to pull my own used auto parts but when I do, I see evidence that no CFC is evacuated for recycle. It is not economically feasible to recycle CFC's; HOWEVER, if CFC spillage were such a problem, there would be better controls. It's all hype to protect new patents and royalties and to justify mfrs' gouging the public for more profit on replacement equipment. If they can make repairing a system expensive enough - like extreme prices to recharge a system - people will buy new equipment; and they do! When our grand leaders in DC start sending inspectors out to find and penalize people who dump CFCs then you guys can continue your argument!! Otherwise, its all irrelevant!!!