It's bulk soaker hose. I've have poor luck with hoses near 100'. Works better on shorter runs. Make sure you use a pressure regulator. I'm not crazy with the snap on coupling. I use hose repair couplings. I've found the hose made to a specific length (25', 50', etc)are easier to use and come with all fittings installed.

Well, I also understand the idea that from point A, where your whole house carbon filter removes chlorine from your water, to point B, (any faucet in your house), you have chlorine free water sitting in your pipes. How high is the risk of that water getting contaminated? Do you have to touch one of the faucets with dirty hands to create a breeding ground for bacteria or since it is present everywhere, it will start multiplying in your pipes without any direct contact? How long will it take to contaminate your water? What are the chances: 1 out of 1000 or let's say 1 out of 100,000? Even if I'm ok gambling with the latter, I'm not willing to take 1 out of 1000. Also, what would be the dangerous level of contamination for drinking? What if we use water, which is being stripped of chlorine at our garage, just for showers and brushing our teeth, never for drinking? In our case, when we put RO under our kitchen faucet, we will have chlorine water till it hits RO = perfect scenario - we will be removing chlorine right before we consume this water; it won't be sitting in pipes (I mentioned earlier that our whole house carbon set-up goes everywhere except the kitchen faucet) How about making it a habit to flush chlorine free water before drinking? Asolo offered to test his/her water. Unfortunately, the results will be inconclusive unless water will be tested every week for the duration of several months. This kind of experiment can be done by some lab which can perfom tests immediately and do it as often as they want. We are putting ourselves at risk of getting sick on daily basis by touching door knobs at work, shopping carts at stores, and even shaking hands with friends. Several years ago medical professionals used to think that common cold or flu virus would survive on these surfaces no longer than a few minutes, relatively recently they found out that it can be hours. You pick up that virus sitting there for hours, rub your eyes or pick your nose - there is a very big chance you will get sick. I would say it is 50/50, depends on how strong your immune system is. Again, are we talking about real danger when we have chlorine free water sitting in our house pipes for a few days? Some people are very sensitive to chlorine while others don't see a big deal. I wish I would not care and see no difference between chlorinated and chlorine free water, but like Asolo, I do. On the top of it, as I mentioned already, all these reports telling you about dangers of chlorine by-products are not giving me more incentive to have it in my water. So, before making my decision, I have to weigh the danger of chlorine free water being contaminated from point A to point B vs the danger of chlorine by products and just my personal preference of liking chlorine free water. I don't know what to do at this point.

Unsanitary conditions are as likely in hospitals & veterinary offices as in suites & clinics, maybe even more so due to the huge numbers of patients that go through the doors every day. Antibiotic-resistant staph infections are spread in hospitals all the time. A friend even told me that her husband's doctor walked up to the bed & reached toward the husband's bandaged incision & my friend sort of laughed & said lightly (have to be nice to those doctors!), "Now you ARE going to wash your hands first, aren't you?" & that was in a big, "efficient", "professional" hospital environment, not a surgical suite. I've seen urine stained furniture in the lobby of one very pricey vet, & her steel exam table had a very rusty support which seems like it would be difficult to clean & to keep clean. I've seen a badly cracked cement floor in another vet's office; I wouldn't want my dog walking on that floor. But if surgery areas weren't sterilized, every person, every animal, would likely emerge with an infection. Shelters & spay/neuter clinics have to comply with state law. The attorney general, on recommendation from the state health department, can take action. If city- or county-run surgical shelters are nasty, or if you suspect surgerical areas are not sterile, complain to the state. The health department will inspect the premises, issue a citation warning the offender to clean up, & re-inspect to be sure the clean-up has been done. If it hasn't, they can call in the attorney general. The best cure for sanitary problems is publicity: In addition to the state health department, call the nearest tv station, the SPCA (but don't expect too much from them, they always work through "local" enforcement), the largest newspaper in your area, go to council meetings, write letters, contact HSUS (Humane Society of the US). I've visited a number of spay/neuter clinics as well as a number of shelters, & the *clinics* have all been clean. The shelters vary. The older the shelter, the more likely it's overburdened, overcrowded, understaffed & underfunded. Those are the ones I'd like to see staffed & funded better & eventually replaced by more modern ones.

You have definitely done your homework, hopefully I can offer a few suggestions... As I think that you already know, using coated laminated glass will give you the same SHGC performance as you would get from an IG, but at the loss of the IG U-factor improvement. Keep in mind that laminated glass will generally have a shorter warranty period than will an IG (depending on manufacturer - but shorter warranty for lami versus IG is fairly consistent in the industry). Depending on the IG manufacturer (and materials), IG seal failure is not likely to be a problem. The better systems in use today have seal failures significantly less than 1%. There is significantly less reason to anticipate "down the road when the seals blow" than you might think. There is at least one other consideration when dealing with internal softcoat coated laminated glass. There are several different laminated glass interlayers in use today. It is likely that you will be looking at a PVB interlayer since a significant majority of laminated glass windows use PVB interlayers. Without going into all the technical details, not all laminated glass manufacturers who deal with coatings are comfortable with the compatibility or longevity of laminating softcoat coatings with PVB interlayers. Cardinal, for example, doesn't even offer an internally coated PVB laminate. Okay, all that said, I am really not trying to talk you out of using a coated laminate, I am offering a few other considerations...hopefully not making your call more difficult. In the case of an IG I would agree completely that getting a coated LowE coating or getting the LowE coating on a tinted lite is superior to an IG with separate coated lite and tinted lite. "I guess I could order the SolarBan 70XL in Atlantica tint to get even better SHGC, if PPG makes the 70XL in tint (on one piece of glass.)" I believe that PPG does offer the 70XL tinted as well, if so I think that it would be worth your while to check it out. "Also no one I've talked to even mentions the 70XL even though I am aware of it. I am surprised about how few Low-E options are presented by window/glass companies. Either they don't know about them, don't understand them, or believe their customers are incapable of understanding the differencea." --- All of the above? I am curious why you want to temper the glass in the laminate? While I understand (and agree with) your desire to temper the lites in the IG (I would do both lites at your sizes - I would also consider thinner glass since tempering would allow you to safely go thinner), but since laminated glass is a safety product that meets all the same safety codes as tempered (actually exceeds tempered in some respects), from a strictly safety standpoint there is no reason to temper the glass as well as laminate it. Although some folks advertise "self-clean" glass, other folks call it "easy-clean" glass just to avoid the controversy of the glass "cleaning" itself. It is a photo-catalytic titanium dioxide coating that does work really well. A few window companies offer it as a standard, others as an option, and others don't offer it at all. And while I don't deal directly with glass or window pricing, based on what you are asking for, and since you are in SoCal, I don't see that your glass quote is really out of line, which doesn't make it less painful. You are considering some potentially expensive options.