Most central A/C (and forced air heat for that matter) draw internal air, cool (or heatt) it, and the blow it out into the living space. Some window units have an option to mix a little outside air into the room. Usually there's just a button or knob to turn it on or off as desired. The unit is more efficient when it is not drawing air from outside. The filtering on window units is minimal.

Replacing the outlet and breaker is easy. The breaker literally pops into place and you just slide the wires into the slot and tighten the screw. (Note: turn the power off at the main disconnect before working in the panel.) You need to make sure you have room for the new breaker though because it will be twice as wide as the current one. Unfortunately, that is only half the job. Presumably, they ran 14 gauge wire to match the 15amp breaker. If so, you'll need to run a new 12 gauge wire from the breaker box to the outlet. That means fishing wire up through the walls and through whatever obstacles are between that and the panel. Depending on the layout, that could be relatively easy or a total pain. On the plus side, this is about the simplest circuit you could start out with. Just 1 wire from an outlet to the panel. The only real challenge is getting that wire from point A to point B.

Cheri Rymerson first post about 12k BTU ac/ heater of unknown brand/model: "How. Ugh is the thru the wall kit for my appliance and when can I get it" Ugh is a written expression of disgust. How disgusting is the thru the wall kit for your appliance ... I can't provide an opinion on that without seeing it. When can you get it ... I don't know anything about that, either. Cheri Rymerson second post about 12k BTU ac/ heater still of known brand/model: "Where is the KIT for holding the unit in the wall????" Guessing ... - Left behind at the store of purchase? - Isn't included with the unknown brand/model? - Not needed for the unknown brand/model per the installation instructions that we can't reference because the brand/model is not stated in the question? - Not available for the unknown brand/model because it's designed only for window installation? Questions for Cheri Rymerson: - What is the brand and model of the unit? - Assuming a through-the-wall kit is required, have you checked with the store where you bought the unit for assistance in obtaining it?

Nidnay - Weirdly I look at these labels (and water heaters) a lot when I'm looking for investment properties and at inspections. See the model # before the dash. The top one ends 36. The bottom one ends 18. This is divided by 12 (12,000 BTUs) to get the tons. Tons is how fast it can remove 12,000 BTUs of heat. And I believe the 3-ton was manufactured in 2018 and 1.5 in 2017 from the serial #s. Those size units seem appropriate for pink's house sq ft but there are other factors to determine the appropriate size. In CA with sky high electric rates people also look at the SEER rating to compare how much it will cost to run the units. Its like MPG in a car, but the more "miles per gallon" you get, the more the unit costs to buy, but less to operate. Huh? Pink - If you are losing freon you have a leak because those units were factory charged. You will have been paying more to run them too the lower it got. I'd contact the manufacturer directly to see what they say about them being defective.