I think I figured out the wiggly blade problem. I think the washer was put on backwards. Anyway, one side was really dirty/green so I figured it should point downward (my husband 'helped' take the blade off and put it back on so that's why there's confusion). Today, I flipped it around (it's curved) and not it's a tight as can be. I think it's on right now. I spent about 2 hours taking the blade, gas tank, housing and eventually the flywheel nut on and off. I was bound and determined to get the nut off and did so by putting a 2 by 4 under the mower and down the grass hole...technical name I know. Boy was I dissapointed not to see what I thought was going to be the key out of position. I saw a youtube demo and mine didn't look like their's. There wasn't anything there that I could tell. Tried to get the fly wheel off then, after yanking on it for awhile, I realised I probably had to take the blade off again. It seemed like I was so close but I'd had enough for one day and put it all back together. Tried to start it for grins. It didn't make the clunking noise but it didn't start either. Made sort of a gurgling noise and puff out smoke on a couple of tries. So, now I'm still confused about the key. Like I said, the slot on the crank shaft lines up with a slot below but I still think it's one piece. The blade adapter fell off during the process and I slipped it back on down it's groove. I was kind of hoping that it might miraculously be fixed after that. So, now what do I do? I'll feel better about pitching anyway knowing I took a stab at it but I hate to give up before I know what's wrong with it.

***"Also when I turn the flywheel slow counterclockwise it makes a sound like "phphphphssss" almost like a soda bottle when it is opened slowly. Sounds like something is draining."** Is this happening when the spark plugs are removed from the engine?? If yes....is the "phphphphssss" coming from the fuel pump??? ............................................. To define "UP" & "DOWN" as relating to piston movement, learn this: When a piston is moving TOWARD the cylinder head, the direction of movement is referred to as UPWARD, or UP. When the piston is moving AWAY FROM the cylinder head, it is referred to as DOWNWARD or DOWN. This applies to all reciprocating engines regardless of the engine configuration. Just remember that the terms are for one specific cylinder at a time, no matter the total number of cylinders the engine has, or which direction they may be pointing (clock position). ...................................................... With both cylinder heads removed, turn the flywheel while watching either of the pistons. As you turn the flywheel, is this piston moving in its cylinder (meaning: traveling upward or downward). Turn the flywheel until it reaches the point of "abrupt stop". Now, watch the same piston while you turn the flywheel in the opposite direction. Does this piston move in the opposite direction JUST AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE OPPOSITE WAY? or does it seem that the flywheel rotates a few degrees before the piston begins to move in the cylinder? Continue turning the flywheel until it abruptly stops again. Now, watch the same piston as you turn the flywheel again in the direction you first turned it. Does the piston begin to move in the opposite direction immediately? or does the flywheel seem to rotate a few degrees before the piston begins to move? Go to the second cylinder and repeat the steps above for that cylinder. What we are doing in this "test" is determining whether the piston, connecting rod, and crankshaft are still intact (I only mean they are still connected together as an assembly). Due to the "1.25 turn" you cite, I expect you to find that one of the pistons will have a "dead zone" of movement in its travel. This is when the flywheel rotates a few degrees without the piston moving. The "dead zone" of movement will be at the max UP and max DOWN positions. If you find this to be true, the connecting rod is very likely "burned up" from loss of lubrication due to the oil being thinned out by gasoline contamination. If you find the "dead zone" of piston travel, you will want to compare the piston travel distance of one cylinder to the other. Using a ruler or other device, record the depth (position of piston at its max DOWN point and at its max UP point) of each piston and cylinder. Measure from the top edge of the cylinder to the top of piston. Do this for both cylinders and compare the depth figures. The cylinder having the lower value (shorter travel) will be the affected cylinder. If you detect a "dead zone" of piston travel on BOTH CYLINDERS, that means BOTH connecting rods are likely burned up. In this case do the following. Turn the fly wheel until one of the pistons reaches the max UP point for that piston. When it is at max UP, measure distance from top of cylinder to top of piston (or mark the cylinder at the top edge of piston with a crayon or pencil) Next,turn the flywheel in the opposite direction until the piston "just begins to move". When this piston begins to move, stop turning the flywheel. Using a non metallic tool (hammer HANDLE, piece of broom handle, or a dowel), push downward on this piston (hold the flywheel stationary when doing this). The piston will move in the cylinder and then stop. Measure the distance the piston moved in the cylinder and record that. Repeat the steps on the opposite cylinder. .......................................................... While each piston is in its DOWN position, inspect the cylinder walls. Are the cylinder walls nice and shiny, and smooth with a glossy surface appearance? Or are they full of rough, scratchy looking grooves that run up and down the cylinder walls? Do the above "tests" and report back with your findings. .............................................. To respond to the post by johntommybob about the possibility of the starter causing the engine to "abruptly stop" when it is being turned. Consider that the drive pinion gear on the starter is very small and has few teeth compared to the engine flywheel ring gear. This means that the armature (rotor) of the starter must turn many revolutions in order to turn the flywheel one revolution. Conversely, when turning the flywheel by hand, one revolution (or 1.25 revolution) of the flywheel would cause the starter drive pinion gear to rotate many revolutions. If the "binding" or "abrupt stop" cited in this case were due to a locked up starter, I would think that the flywheel would be "un-turnable" at all. AND it would require that the starter drive pinion gear be "stuck into" the ring gear as well. Since the starter might be burned up (remember the smoke), it would not hurt to go ahead and take the starter off the engine anyway. I just don't expect to find the starter as the cause of the "abrupt stop" symptom seen here.

Lewis: Might i suggest this: Go buy a new short block! I can tell, by your questions, that for you to try to rebuild your engine--will be a waste of your time, and money! Rebuilding a lawn mower/tractor engine, or any kind of gasoline or diesel engine is way over your head in the "learned" category! most of us here, who give advice to others, figure the "asker" has at least some idea of how to rebuild an engine, and other parts. I have been doing this work for some time. I started out as an auto mechanic, and then intto auto body repair and refinishing, and finally lawn equipment repairing. And, i still don't get into a job where i have to ask questions, without some in-grown knowlege of the job at hand. you could ostensibly get the new cam in the engine, and other parts installed, too, and wipe it all out with one revolution of the crankshaft! (Ever hear of timing marks?) I am now 88 years of age, and still learning about lawn equipment and how to fix the stuff. A suggestion: Buy a short block. or: Buy a complete new engine. Or: Buy a new tractor. From what i have read, anything less will be a waste of your money. Then leave the rebuilding to folks who know what a cam-shaft is and how to install it correctly! JMHO: Rusty Jones

No, it isn't the thermocouple. The pilot light stays lit. It is still doing the same thing. If I turn it on it fires right up and works normally until it reaches temp but the next time it tries to fire up it hangs up. The power vent starts to go but instead of the burner lighting up it shuts down then tries again. Over and over. I disconnected the plastic tube that runs into the power vent and cleaned it out with a pipe cleaner. No change.