I can't speak for Al. I hope he or someone else who has used this mix for a while will chime in. I always followed the advice to add one tablespoon of lime per gallon of mix and I prefer to measure five gallons of bark to three each of perlite and peat. My formula was closer to what he describes as a small batch: Small batch: 3 gallons pine bark 1/2 gallon peat 1/2 gallon perlite 4 tbsp lime (or gypsum in some cases) 1/4 cup CRF (if preferred) You will notice this is actually 6-1-1. Al has said many times that these formulas are really more of a general concept. I suspect he didn't want new gardeners to get hung up on making exact formulas. I don't think you should repot anything you just put into the mix you made. It is fine the way it is. I was mainly trying to explain why there was a difference in your measurements between the two batches.

"should this new system (minus the blower/furnace portion) cycle at all on 100+ degree days?" Depends on how closely the estimate of required size is to the actual heat gain of the house and the design point. If the unit is slightly oversize compared to the actual heat gain of the house it should cycle at the design limit. If it is not at the design limit (say thermostat not as low as the design used) or the heat gain is less than estimated it may cycle. If you design for 72 inside/100 outside and the unit is otherwise sized perfectly it may not cycle if you leave the temp set above 72. It takes a pretty decent amount of work to size for old houses. Blower door tests, IR camera tests, etc. all start to get real m=numbers of heat gain (or loss). If a typical Manual J was done even a minor difference in the estimated R-value of the exterior walls and ceilings from what they actually are can make a large difference. There are a lot of square feet of exterior surface. Add to that the estimate of infiltration losses from windows and doors. Many systems end up at least slightly oversize, but as long as the humidity control is adequate that is often about as accurate as you really need to be.

Stumbled across this item while surfing this morning. Just as so many laundry mavens here are pulling their hair out about sudsing problems, here's the latest feature from Samsung....copied/pasted from their site.....the site that advertises on this forum.....on this thread: "PowerFoam� Technology for foam you can see, clean you can feel PowerFoam� is an exclusive Samsung technology that creates a deep-cleaning foam that�s gentle on fabrics. PowerFoam� washers fill the drum with foam � created from HE detergent, water, and air � during the wash cycle. Foam penetrates fabrics more deeply, thoroughly and up to 40 times faster* than detergent in conventional washers so you can confidently wash large and bulky loads like king-size comforters. *Based on tests using AHAM HLW-I-2007 detergent standards." Here is a link that might be useful: Samsung foam

Remember to ignore the dosing instructions on the box. This is especially true of PERISL because the dosing is set for European hard water(unless you have this type of water). Instead I started of with the lowest dose I thought would get the job done(When I started I began with 1 teaspoon but I have a smaller unit than yours) and then looked at the results. If things don't look clean then I consider the following options: Use a cycle with a higher water temp if possible, or use the extended option to increase the cycle time - if you have the time, or if this doesn't work then add a bit more detergent - increasing in 1/2 teaspoons until you get what you want. Also adjust the amount of detergent to the soil level. If you can't see heavy visible dirt, or smell it, you don't need a lot of detergent - use less. After a bit you will be able to look at each load and it's soil level and know the least amount of detergent that will get the job done. Miele vs PERSIL Megaperls - they are similar in my water conditions except that the Miele is slightly more concentrated so I can use less, and it is quite good with heavy soil using warm water(105F) washes, however I have never tried the sensitive formulation. Watch your washer and let us know what you get from your changes. My older 6K unit is programmed for water+ extra rinse and when I use the sensitive button I get 3 rinses, and a higher fill for all of them - the rinse water is 1/4 way up the door glass. The current energy standards probably don't allow for water 1/4 up the door but check yours out and see if you get more. Why Jeans defaults to high and not Max spin. If I remember correctly when I bought my machine I heard that Miele referred to some garment institute in the EU that publishes standards for how to clean garments and they used their standards to set the defaults and actions the washer takes to work with different types of material. I don't know if that is still the case with the 48XX models.