Dust / lumber smell coming out of air ducts
stevefox
16 years ago
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garyg
16 years agomr_havac
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Never ending dust.. duct cleaning?
Comments (8)Deciding Whether or Not to Have Your Air Ducts Cleaned. https://www.heatingair.org/ Knowledge about the potential benefits and possible problems of air duct cleaning is limited. Since conditions in every home are different, it is impossible to generalize about whether or not air duct cleaning in your home would be beneficial. If no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold (no musty odor or visible mold growth), having your air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary. It is normal for the return registers to get dusty as dust-laden air is pulled through the grate. This does not indicate that your air ducts are contaminated with heavy deposits of dust or debris; the registers can be easily vacuumed or removed and cleaned. On the other hand, if family members are experiencing unusual or unexplained symptoms or illnesses that you think might be related to your home environment, you should discuss the situation with your doctor. EPA has published the following publications for guidance on identifying possible indoor air quality problems and ways to prevent or fix them. The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality You may consider having your air ducts cleaned simply because it seems logical that air ducts will get dirty over time and should occasionally be cleaned. While the debate about the value of periodic duct cleaning continues, no evidence suggests that such cleaning would be detrimental, provided that it is done properly. On the other hand, if a service provider fails to follow proper duct cleaning procedures, duct cleaning can cause indoor air problems. For example, an inadequate vacuum collection system can release more dust, dirt and other contaminants than if you had left the ducts alone. A careless or inadequately trained service provider can damage your ducts or heating and cooling system, possibly increasing your heating and air conditioning costs or forcing you to undertake difficult and costly repairs or replacements....See MoreTemp of air coming out of vents...
Comments (52)Some of these comments are reiterated again and again. I am a retired HVAC/R professional with over 40 years experience. There is no cut and dried answer to most of these questions. Most of the answers are mostly correct in that you need to seal your ductwork, insulate it if it is in non-conditioned space (attic/crawl space), and the ductwork needs to be laid out correctly to supply AND return the correct amount of cfm to each room. After that, NO air conditioning technician in the world can correctly diagnose an air conditioner's problem unless several criteria are met. First and foremost, BOTH the condenser coil and the evaporator must be clean and the furnace (air handler) filter must be clean and not restricting flow. If you call a company out to your house and the technician comes up to your house with his gauges and refrigerant tank FIRST THING and immediately hooks the gauges up and starts putting refrigerant in, my advice is not to call that particular company back again. The coils MUST be clean before you can even begin to decide that the system is under or overcharged. Next you must make sure that you are moving the correct amount of cfm for the size air conditioner you have. 400 cfm/ton is the nominal amount for air conditioning. NOT ONE person has mentioned how important this is. On MANY occasions, I have seen brand new equipment installed and no one can figure out why it won't work! With brand new equipment, we know the coils are clean so that is not the problem. Let's say we have a house that is 2400 square feet and a new furnace and air conditioner are installed. It's a 105,000 btu furnace and a 3 ton unit. The homeowner complains that their old furnace and a/c (same size) worked fine until they had to have it replaced. Technician after technician comes out.....they hook up their gauges and add and remove refrigerant and can't figure out what the problem is. The a/c runs almost all the time and the pressures are correct but the relative humidity in the house is REALLY high and they can't figure it out. Some technicians recommend a whole house dehumidifier as a fix. C'mon people, let's not put a bandaid on this problem. What most technicians tend to forget with an installation of new equipment is that the new furnace doesn't KNOW what size air conditioner it is being mated with! The new furnace can typically be mated with (and has the blower assembly to work with) anywhere from a 3 ton to a 5 ton unit. These furnaces will have as many as 6 different speeds for the drive motor. A 5 speed motor is more typical but the factory sends these furnaces out USUALLY with the lowest speed set up for heat and the highest speed set up for cool. This means with the 3 ton unit (which needs 1200 cfm delivered), on the highest motor tap speed from the factory, the furnace is delivering 2000 cfm or more! Moving 2000 or more cfm through a 3 ton evaporator will result in a "delta T" of 10 degrees or less which explains the unit running almost continuously and the high relative humidity in the house. These technicians need to remember that they need to look in the installation manual to find the right motor tap speed to utilize with the size a/c being mated to the furnace. With the advent of the 95+ % furnaces, we are seeing ECM motors being deployed in the furnaces. These have no speed taps, but instead have a motor that is in essense a variable speed motor. The technician still needs to consult the installation manual as the motherboard in the furnace will have dip switches to set the motor drive unit to supply the desired cfm. Now, some "rules of thumb." IF your coils are clean, IF your furnace filter is not clogged up with dirt and providing a restriction, IF you are moving the correct amount of cfm for your size a/c, IF the superheat is correct and IF the subcooling is also correct, you should get a delta T of between 17-22 degrees and your supply temperature should be between 51-55 after the unit has run for 10 minutes or longer....See MoreHigh Humidity in Air Duct air after Compressor goes off
Comments (3)one other question ... when i set my Fan on AUTO ... the fan runs for about 1 to 2 minutes after the compressor shuts off ... just long enough to increase the RH in my ducts to a humid 75% before shutting off the airflow ... Is there a way to tweak the electronics so that the fan actually completely shuts down exactly when the compressor shuts off? That would keep the air in my ductwork a dry and mold inhibiting RH of 45% Thanks for any ideas...See MoreDoes air duct cleaning help with dust?
Comments (6)Excessive dust? dust doesn't come from the HVAC system, it's due to outside influences that cause the dust. Dust is in the air we breathe indoors or out, pet dander, smokers ash, skin dander etc. You remember the commercials Intel made many years ago where they showed the funny little different colored suits? The people in them covered from head to toe? Humans create dust. To eliminate dust entirely you have to go to extremes you can not imagine. The best way for homeowner's to cut down on dust is eliminate the house from being under a negative pressure. Realize I said "cut down" on dust. If the house is under positive air pressure 'most of the time' there is a pressure that is preventing infiltration, this will in turn cut down on the amount of dust. Cleaning your duct system is merely treating the symptom of a dirty home, it will just get dirty again....See Moreenergy_rater_la
16 years agoHU-205273897
3 years agoThomas T
3 years agoHU-930819208
18 days ago
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