I'm stunned at the ignorance displayed in this forum. I've been installing ceramic/stone/porcelain, as a private contractor for over 25 years (i.e. since there were only 4x4, nominal of course, tiles available on walls and only porcelain mosaics or kiln baked ceramics for floors. You know, the ones with the knobs on the bottom side. Think I know what I'm talking about? I am recognized as a superior installer in Bergen County NJ as evidenced by staying in business for over 25 years and never spent a nickel on advertising. I work 6 and sometimes 7 long days a week at a moderately competitive price all by word of mouth. Anyway, on the subject of rectified tiles and how wonderful Porcelanosa tiles are. I very recently installed 500 plus square feet of rectified tiles of which the dimensions were 26 inches by 17.5 inches. BTW no one in this forum has mentioned a tile of that size yet. The degree of difficulty is extreme at that size. I was also asked to space the tile BUTT, not even 1/16 inch joint over an extremely well poured and "flat" slab of concrete.The area to be tiled has a straight run of over 60 feet long by 9 feet wide in a printing factory. Even though I am a very careful and conscientious worker I was given a D minus on the job and was not paid. I might even get sued.The bottom line is, if the floor is PERFECTLY FLAT (which NO floor is : repeat NO floor)you will still get a degree of lippage, no matter how minimal it is. Which leads the the almighty question of how tolerant the homeowner or building owner is when they look at your job. People in this forum have used the word good job. No one has said great job. Job quality is in the eye of the beholder, but rest assured no one can EVER expect a perfect install, with rectified tile. Go to any Porcelanosa showroom or for that matter, anywhere in the continental United States and examine the sample installations for yourself. Learn what to expect before you get your hopes too high. Going from a 1/16 joint to a 1/8 joint will greatly increase your satisfaction. Don.t be fooled by someone who says he can do what YOU want to make him do. We are all trying to make a living. In ending I would love some feedback from anyone who claims to put in a perfect floor (rectified w/1/16 joint, and I am willing to travel anywhere to see this work.

Thanks Laurie! The paint color is a long story I wish I could tell you the paint color, but due to Lowes not being able to match their own sample strips (valspar) I have no idea. We got two gallons of the paint, supposedly was CHH "Cincinnatian Hotel Hannaford 3007-10C" We waited a while before actually painting. So I had to go back and get them shaken again. We really needed 3 gallons. My Dh thought he saw a hole in one of the walls we painted to he patched, sprayed texture. So I would need to repaint. We needed the other gallen so I go back to lowes get the same CHH paint swatch above. Get home paint the touch-up area and the new paint is yellower than the rest of the wall. So I go back to lowes with one of the cans from the first time we painted. They try again, no luck still yellow. Then I notice that the paint swatch more resembles the yellower version. So what did they do the first time for those two gallons, labeled the exact same? It doesn't seem to be the CHH, but that's the label. The paint in the baseboard picture is a little different. It's greyer. That resulted when they tried to color match the paint from our first can. It didn't really match when we got home, this time greyer. So I ended up repainting the one wall in the yellower version. The pain by the fireplace is the original. They don't have a name. Aren't you sorry you asked? Lesson learned get extra gallon at the time you order the paint to be mixed. Later you'll never get an exact match.

Wow,no doubt the workmanship is poor overall. What should be done depend's on what kind of agreement was made before job began. I've hired work done knowing quality might not be the best simply because it was costing half of industry standard. My scope of work and expectations are far different between a new $400k+ home and a $50k low rent district house. In either of those homes,I expect grout (esp floor) to fill gap so that cleaning is easier plus wear and tear can expose fresh grout before void/dirt trap become's overly deep.

Would not paint oak cabinets in good condition myself, however, your kitchen should reflect your taste. Would keep all the whites (except the flat white ceiling) the same white so you don't end up with "dingy" white amid a more true or bright white. Have you considered just painting the upper cabinets and wall white but leaving the lower cabinets with a natural oak finish? It is a much warmer and more welcoming look than a cold stark all or mostly white kitchen. https://www.decorpad.com/photo.htm?photoId=114502