I understand why you asked this question here but you might still want to consider starting a new thread so your question does not get overlooked by others who can help you. But, to take a shot at it, the GE PHS920 slide-in induction range may be a "better option" for you than the gas-slide-in that is in your plans. Maybe not for the reasons on which you might have focused. I'm keying on the comment about "getting scared." First thing is that OTRs above a gas range are not "scary." There just are much more effective means of collecting and removing vapors and venting-out waste heat. As long as OTRs are vented to the extrerior (instead of recirculating), they are better than nothing and can be "adequate." If you do a search here on OTRs, you'll find several threads from the last couple of years discussing OTRs over gas ranges and including discussions (and pictures) of using them over pro-style ranges. Second, the thing that makes OTRs less effective is "coverage area." Most of them only cover the back half of the stove, so they do not do a good job of collecting vapors etc. from pots on the front burners. This is just as much a problem with induction as it is with gas burners. If you can manage it, a "proper" hood "should" be at least as deep as the stove and 3-inches wider to each side with the fan intake(s) positioned to efficiently draw what the hood captures. As kaseki has so often pointed out here, the more your vent relies on the fan(s) instead of a canopy for collection of vapors, the less effective it will be as a venting appliance. Many of us have had to make compromises on effectiveness in order to fit or retrofit some venting into our kitchens. So, some wind up with narrower hoods that are 22" deep. Others have to get shallower hoods. Some of us can fit only shallow-hoods with flat bases rather than canopies. Still others have to resort to OTR units. But, some venting is better than none. If you needed confirmation of this seemingly obvious point, there were some threads here from a year ago which discussed a study on kitchen venting carried out at the Lawrence Livermore Laboratories and funded by the Dept. of Energy and the EPA. (I'd give you the links but cannot find them at the moment.) Third, you can mitigate the OTR compromises a bit if you select an OTR with a slide-out vent extension. These have a slide-out vent-tray that extends some fan pick-up intakes out closer to the front of the stove and increases the capture area somewhat. The kinds of OTRs ave also been discussed in several threads here over the last couple of years. (You may already have seen these, so forgive me for mentioning them id you have.) I think LG makes a couple of models like this and there may be more from other companies. Fourth, when people have said "scary" about this topic in past threads, they often have been laboring under the mis-impression that running a gas stove without a vent is a fire hazard and that an OTR, with its limited effectiveness, might somehow be a code violation. Going without a vent -- in a home with residential stoves rather than commercial equipment --- is not a fire hazard -- at least it is not as long as you heed the cabinet spacing and wall surface specifications in you stove's installation instructions. Same thing with OTRs. Firth, when it comes to dealing with waste heat, venting is mainly a matter of comfort with gas ranges. Something like 60% (and more) of the heat from the burners can be going around the pans on the stove top and, because gas ovens vent more than electric ovens, a lot more heat can come into the kitchen from the oven vent than with an electric oven. A well-functioning range hood can draw a fair amount of that heat out and help keep the kitchen more comfortable. An OTR does some of this, too, just a whole lot less. Sixth, that brings us to induction ranges like the PHS920 producing far less waste heat than gas ranges, which can be a very real and very big advantage for many people. Basically, 84% (or more) of the energy from an induction burner goes into a pan. With gas, it is more like 33% to maybe 40% (depending on a lot of variables). Also, as mentioned above, gas ovens pump more heat into your kitchen than an electric oven will. So, if you live in a warm-to-hot climate or a place with long hot summers, induction will have an obvious two-fold advantage. The stove-top produces less waste heat and the vent does not need to suck as much conditioned air to maintain comfort around the stove. Seventh, in theory, the extra heat from a gas range could cause more wear and tear on the OTR's MW and cause it to fail sooner than it might when run over an induction range like the PHS920. While I've seen posts expressing that fear as well as posts complaining about how much of a pain it can be to replace OTRs that fail, I haven't seen any data about actual relative failure rates. Consumer Reports used to have annual membership survey data showing that OTRs had slightly higher reported failure rates for the first five years of ownership but now, with countertop MWs being basically commodity products from very few manufacturers (notwithstanding the plethora of brands), the annual survey no longer asks about countertop MWs. For OTRs, most brands run about 6% to 8% defects and failures in the first five years, Kitchenaid and LG run around 10% and Samsung is the outlier with a 16% problem rate on its OTRs in the first five years of ownership. Unfortunately, CR's survey does not ask about the kind of range the OTR is placed above. Also, a further caveat, the amount of heat going to the OTR is highly variable between houses and cooking styles. At this point, about all that can be said is that there is a potential that extra heat from gas stoves could shorten the life of an OTR but no data on how significant that is. So, to sum up on "waste heat," a PHS920 range could very well be "a better option" for you with an OTR. Eighth, gas ranges produce combustion by-products. Now, I say that, and the paranoid immediately panic and chatter about carbon monoxide (CO). But that's a distraction. CO is not a problem with modern gas ranges unless somebody has deliberately put the burners way out of adjustment or leaves them running without a flame. A range hood really won't help with either of those problems. Realistically, the problem is more subtle -- it is aerosolized grease, ozone, NO, CO2 and a few other combustion related compounds. Without good venting, this stuff will coat kitchen surfaces more quickly than happens with induction. That, in turn, means more frequent need to scrub surfaces. Also, unvented gas cooktops and ranges can have subtle long term health effects --- which will be adverse in the short term if you have chemical sensitivities, in which case you shouldn't consider gas appliances, at all. While induction obviously does not put combustion by-products into your kitchen (the combustion happens at the power plant where those things may be more readily contained), cooking on induction won't result in less aerosolized particulates. Even so, the relative lack of waste heat means that they don't disperse as readily as they do with a gas stove. That, in turn, makes for more ready capture by venting, even OTRs, So, this is another item that can make induction a "better option" for you with an OTR. Ninth, I gather that the upcoming versions of the International Residential Code (IRC) may be requiring kitchen venting. I've read in some posts here that a few jurisdictions have already adopted their own requirements in advance of those regulations. (I'm not talking about the existing make-up-air (MUA) requirements which only apply if you install ventilation over a certain CFM capacity -- I'm talking about requirements to install venting in the kitchen). You might want to check if your locality has any such new requirements and whether they make any distinctions between types of stoves and cooktops. Tenth, I've learned over the years here that some people think recirculating OTRs are the same as venting them to the outside. Since you said you've been researching them, I am assuming you know the difference. For anybody who reads this thread later and doesn't know the difference, recirculating range hoods and OTRs are almost all next to useless. The authors of that Lawrence Livermore report on venting called recirculators "forehead greasers." Finally, with the cabinets ordered for your remodel, I'm not sure what options have, but most of us would strongly recommend putting a canopy hood in place of that OTR, if you can, and put a regular microwave on a shelf or cart somewhere else, and do this regardless of whether you get your gas slide-in or go with an induction slide-in like the PHS920. P.S. Have you seen the current thread on whether induction needs a less powerful hood? If not, check out the last post in that thread which is by Kaseki. This post was edited by JWVideo on Tue, Apr 8, 14 at 14:04

TonySak- I'm going to chime back in here since I started the thread, and although I can't believe it, it has been almost a year since I've had the dishwasher! This dishwasher rarely cleaned right for me, and oftentimes, cleaned even worse on the top rack. There were many times when I have had to hand wash much of what was on top. It has appeared to get worse over time. First, as dixiedarlin1 said, the dishwasher is much drier now, and has been for a long time. I still use the heated dry cycle. The soppy days are gone. Second, I have had GE service personnel over twice, once primarily for the soppiness, and also for the sporadic cleaning. I use ONLY Cascade with Dawn action pacs now, and they work almost flawlessly WHEN the dishwasher decides to clean. The second very recent GE call was for the worsening washing action on the top rack. NOTHING was coming clean, and small particles were dried all over all my glasses and plates (despite the Cascade). ANSWER: (believe it or not)... When GE shipped these dishwashers (model PDWT580RSS), they apparently omitted an O-ring ("gasket") from the back of the top rack tube that makes a seal against the back wall tube where the water comes in and goes through the top of the DW. There was a recess where the O-ring should be, but no O-ring. That O-ring apparently provides the seal and ensuing pressure needed to really blast that water up around the top rack. Boy was I skeptical!!! I thought they were crazy when they told me that was most likely the problem. Well lo and behold, the parts came to the house and I took it upon myself to open up the O-ring and put it on myself. Well, I feel like I have a new dishwasher. I don't think it was just a coincidence. I have washed 5 loads successfully since installing that skinny little ring. The silverware doesn't usually come out perfect...always at least 2 or 3 pieces that need to be rewashed...but the difference is the top rack washing is remarkable. This doesn't change the fact that I still feel that the silverware basket was a terrible design, and the tines on the racks are terribly spaced, making many items (especially cereal and soup bowls) continually fall over. It has been maddening, to say the least. The GE company, however, has been WONDERFUL. Due to what I've gone through with my DW, they have extended my warranty by one full year for free. All things considered, I would never buy another GE dishwasher, although I realize that there are complaints with every manufacturer's dishwashers. I've just gone through too much with this one. My sister is still thrilled with her Bosch; never had a moment's problem with it- except when the water wouldn't drain and it turned out it wasn't her DW...it was the pipes. Who knows? Maybe she just got lucky with the Bosch.

Thanks, everyone. Cynic: As far as I know, I'm loading correctly. I have read the manual, several times, and I understand about dropping items loosely around the perimeter. I turn long sleeve shirts inside out with the sleeves inside. I put pants into "lumps" rather than stretched out. I try to mix loads, but honestly, in the winter when we both wear long sleeve shirts and long pants it's hard not to have a load with all long stuff. That's when the tangling the is worst. My machine is a first generation and has had both the impeller and computer board replaced. No noticeable difference. ebear: Thanks for replying. Yours was one of the older responses I found when I did my search. I'm glad to hear that you are having good luck. Do you have any hints about use in order to reduce tangling? chickadeead: I can't get into that link. I do get CR magazine but I haven't had time to find the issue with washers. It's good to hear that you are having good results with your set. Sears has a sale going through Sat. that I am probably going to take advantage of. Thanks again for the help.

I just thought I'd post an update for anyone also considering these machines... Due to my incessant comparisons and price shopping, I delayed enough that I was able to find the LG Waveforce (WT5101H & DLEX5101) washer and dryer set for less than the initial price that was luring me toward GE set. Since the main reason I was considering the GE Harmony over the LG Waveforce was price, I stopped comparing and got the LG washer and matching steam dryer. We decided on white. I would have chosen white anyway since it would look better in the space, but I have seen many people say the stainless color is a shrink wrapped covering that can bubble up and not actual paint, so that is something to consider for anyone else contemplating the purchase. They were delivered last week, and I LOVE them! After getting them perfectly level, we did every piece of laundry we could find and tested out several of the modes. It has worked wonderfully for towels, sheets, clothes, delicate undergarments (on the wool setting and in mesh wash bags) and even fit our california king comforter. I cannot believe how big the drum is! I think I could curl up and sit in this thing. I was concerned about things twisting up, especially our sheet set, but that wasn't a problem at all. The extra water and extra rinse options are really nice to have. I haven't had any issues with soap residue and the wash feels CLEAN! Not just 'clean' but CLEAN CLEAN! I am picky on clean; you can trust me on this! The washer does a great job moving the clothes around. It does really seem to move the water through the clothes rather than tugging the clothes through the water the way an agitator-style washer would. We applied some Rain-X Interior Glass Anti-Fog to the inside of the washer lid so we could get a good look at what was going on inside. I don't plan to make laundry viewing a regular pastime, but I wanted to be sure of my purchase before the return period was up, and the whole point of the glass lid is to be able to peek inside. The dryer steam feature I don't see using a lot, but it will be nice to have occasionally for de-wrinkling and anti-static. We of course have used it just to try it out! There is a drying rack you can set in the drum so you can dry bras, sweaters or shoes with no tumble rather than rack or hang drying them elsewhere. I have a few more modes to try out, and also plan on testing out what the temperatures of each setting are, but so far I am very pleased with the purchase. I expect the warm and hot temps won't "wow" me, but I want to at least be sure each mode is working as it should before the return window closes. To anyone contemplating getting this LG set, or the GE or Kenmore branded similar machines, I would advise you to shop for the best deal and availability between the brands, and get them! Especially if front loaders aren't a consideration for you, I really don't think you can do any better. I am not the type to go buy the first thing I see and I often agonize over deciding on larger purchases. Hopefully my review will help a someone currently in their own washer/dryer comparison shopping nightmare. ;)