Even I think this argument is a bit spurious. Let's break it down point by point. Lead and other nasties in the environment from coal plants is ridiculous. There's no argument there and I'm not even going to bother finding the links. I'm also in an 80% coal-fired area, yet listen to people complaining about the tiny amounts of cadmium compounds from what comes off my painting palette. If one runs on solar, there might be a slight advantage to going electric. Wind, definitive. I'm not a vast fan of solar due to the amounts of rare earths gobbled to produce it. Battery recycling is, unfortunately, at not such great percentages. Half of lithium batteries get recycled. That's a lot of discarded--and very rare--lithium. It's produced by spallation in the atmosphere, mostly (cosmic rays and oxygen/nitrogen, with a bit from the Big Bang nucleosynthesis; stellar nuclear reactions actually destroy lithium). We're not exactly swimming in the stuff. So toss that argument right in the garbage along with those batteries. You recycle yours? Great! Half those got thrown away for lack of any interest in retrieving the materials. (Most seem to think that lithium-ion batteries are used; they're not, they're too unstable for exterior use. Those use very little lithium. Most exterior batteries are lithium-iron, which require far more. Some might be lithium-manganese, ditto. The same is true for most newer chemistries, of which there are a few, most not in the common market yet). 99.3% of lead batteries are recycled. That...sounds good, but they retrieve the lead plates and lead sulfate material in the gunk, and throw out the rest. And nobody uses lead in electrics any longer, they're too heavy and the electrical potential is too low. They're great in car batteries, though. Ground vs. Air distribution...immaterial datapoint, actually, that would only impact the direct user and a few other people at most. Once atmospheric mixing occurs--give that two puffs of wind and a single pass over a warm lawn--it's done for. Point in fact, you've just argued against power plants. Their pollution (heavy in carbon dioxide, a greenhouse gas, water vapor, a very strong greenhouse gas, and so on) is distributed in the atmosphere high enough that grasses, trees, and other landscape has no chance to bind it before it can mix and head for the stratosphere. Spillage...visit a coal plant sometime. The entire place is sterile and covered in coal bits tracked around, dropped off trucks. We won't discuss coal mines or, for that matter, Centralia, Pennsylvania. And some of us are quite careful with our gas, thank you. I've accidentally spilled more due to my gas station having an extremely wonky gas dispenser. Cosmetic... Well, yes. Personally, I don't. In either case, one is using electricity or gas, both resources, to make the place look nicer. Maybe don't do that if it offends you, but leave others to do as they please while pointing it out in...well, frankly, a slightly less touchy manner. Blowing grass clippings...um, who does this any longer? Everybody I know and see here has mulching mowers. On rare occasions, I might see somebody blow them off the driveway if they're incredibly heavy and a potential problem. It's interesting to note that they're a water pollutant if left on the driveway, washed into the sewer drain, and go into there, hence the rivers (around here, our sewers dump directly into the river, then into the Atlantic). Phosphorus and nitrogen lead to algal blossoms. Not at all a healthy thing for the oceans as they cause anoxic zones. We're advised to remove them when possible. So if we want to be Earth friendly, they need to be removed.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE TecumsehPower Company Sells Assets from Engine Business to Certified Parts Corporation Transaction Provides Customers Long-Term Parts, Service and Warranty Support Grafton, WI (February 10, 2009) Â TecumsehPower Company, provider of powertrain solutions to the global outdoor power equipment industry, announced today it has sold certain assets of its Engine Business to Certified Parts Corporation (CPC). Financial terms of the transaction were not disclosed. The transaction announced today includes the sale of existing and unfinished engine parts inventory, tools to make finished product and certain intellectual property assets. CPC will also assume the warranty obligations of the Engine Business. "We have again sought and found a solution that preserves the commitment we made to our customers," said TecumsehPower Company President and CEO Rudolf Strobl. "We are proud to have found a way forward that ensures all warranty obligations are met and provides long-term parts and service support into the future." TecumsehPower will continue to own certain real estate and other assets, and will provide some services to CPC under a transition services agreement for a limited period of time. http://www.certifiedpartscorp.com/

When the effluent rises it has some velocity, and hence momentum. When it enters the hood it has a tendency to "reflect" and curl downward and potentially escape. If the hood is deep enough (top to bottom) and the hood fan flow is high enough (cfm) the curling effluent will remain captured and will be exhausted. The barrel design in the picture looks to me (without examining one) like it has adequate depth. W.r.t. ya think's question a few messages up: First I would say that the change from vertical to horizontal should be as large a radius curve as you can fit to minimize pressure loss (as well as noise). The effluent momentum (which is a vector) is being changed in direction. This is akin to stopping it and starting it up again. If it can slide along a curve, the momentum loss is significantly less. There is one commercial ducting source I came across once that uses 90-degree transitions, but embeds a curved shape within the duct to improve the flow. I find it hard to answer the question of what questions to ask. Usually, the answers aren't available. Ideally, one would want to know the fan curve (flow vs. static pressure) and try to estimate all the pressure losses (including the pressure one might pull the house down to with or without make-up air) to see what the real maximum flow rate will be. This can then be compared against estimates of effluent generation rate calculated from the reference below. The power used might be adjusted to represent your cooking style, as rarely would one have all burners on maximum and cooking at the highest pan temperature. One thing is certain, flow rate in the hood has to at least equal the flow rate from all the active burners and pans, and arguably should be higher due to imperfect effluent collection. Implied above is that the hood manufacturer can supply pressure loss of the filters vs. flow rate, as well as that of the hood transitions. Getting that data, even if it were ever measured, would be unlikely, me thinks. I suggest that various hoods be "audited" in showrooms to gain a feel for their noisiness versus their designs. The reference worth reading, even if one doesn't intend to use it for calculations, is "Thermal plumes of kitchen appliances: part 2 cooking mode," by Risto, Hannu, and Pekka. (I've found it on-line whenever I've looked for it. Part 1 is also interesting.) If you do use it for calculations, please note the following apparent errors in their Equation 1: The constant should be 0.05 not 5. The units of phi should be kW, not W. (these corrections make their tables consistent with the equation) You will need a scientific calculator or counterpart software to do the exponents (unless you are very old school and know how to do logarithms). You will also need to convert BTU to kW and cubic meters per second to cubic feet per minute. This is left as an exercise for the student. [insert sociopathic laugh here] kas

1ST thing i would check is the run capacitor for the motor. There should be 2 brown wires from the motor to the capacitor. Its silver and usually mounted on the side of the blower housing. It will have 2 terminals and looking at them directly, they should be flat and level compaired to each other. If they look like a cresent moon and are not flat, replace the capacitor. They are inexpensive & that could be all the problem is. Now... without a capacitor tester.. it is possible that the capacitor looks fine but is shorted out inside. So replace it 1st with the same rating listed on the side... and try it. If that doesnt solve the problem, more than likely its the motor. *** You are dealing with high voltage. Take necessary precautions *** Check out the link below. Hope this helps Here is a link that might be useful: