Gasp! What equipment is being replaced, specs? Was a heat calc performed? I hope you got a DETAILED quote; you know, model numbers, matching coils. Prices seem way too high. I think they saw Mom ($) coming. V

Now the numbers are on a little on the high side, but without knowing your house I am only speculating. An 80K BTU furnace should keep you toasty. I am in central NJ and I think Staten Island tends to be 2-3 degrees warmer in the winter. An over sized AC will short cycle which results in poor humidity control. The AC needs to run for longer periods of time in order to give it enough time to dry out the air. My concern is the 4 ton AC may be too big. Do you know what size AC you have now and how well it has performed? I don't think you ever stated the total area of the conditioned space. I personally don't think you need an electronic air cleaner. I do recommend getting a 4 inch media filter. The bigger filters have lower air resistance and last 6-12 months.

Your condenser coil model numbers are incorrect. This is why I couldn't find anything in the AHRI directory. I am not familiar with York and Luxiare equipment. I can only tell you what I find through a search. The CF60D and CF64D are both cased coils with the same dimensions. It looks like the CF64D has a little better performance based on the technical data sheet. A coil by itself does not have a SEER rating. The SEER rating is for a furnace, coil, and condenser combination. The specific combination is tested by the manufacturer and given a SEER/EER rating and designated by an AHRI directory number. This is known as a valid match. Change one of the three components and the SEER/EER rating changes. Unmatched systems don't have a rating because they are untested. You are getting a furnace so there is no air handler. The furnace acts as the air handler for the AC in the summer. The TM9V series is a 2-stage furnace with a variable speed ECM motor. I think that is a good choice. I doubt you need the 100K BTU size. Is the contractor going to give you the correct model numbers with the AHRI number showing the system is a valid match? If he can't then you should be looking at other contractors.

My first advice would be to find out how much insulation you currently have in the attic and what condition it is in. You should have at least R-30 of insulation. If you are adding more than it doesn't cost much more to increase it to R-40. I like fiberglass batts, but blown in insulation is fine as long as it is done properly. This is something you can do yourself or hire an insulation company. I am sure you were told that as part of the NJ Clean Energy Program you must seal your attic in order to qualify for any rebate. I have never seen any measured results of energy savings before and after sealing. The attic hatch should be sealed since in my opinion it is the biggest source of leakage. This is something you can do yourself. Several years ago I built my own insulated hatch for about $15. If you seen dirty insulation that is dirty in spots, then that is a source of a significant air leak. You can use silicone caulk to seal them, or you can have the insulation company seal and then insulate. I see that you have gotten some quotes. I also detect that some and possibly all have not done a load calculation for your house. Any HVAC contractor who quotes either a 2 or 3 ton AC for an 1100 sq. foot house in Middlesex County (I am in the same county) NJ obviously has not done a load calculation. If you are going to upgrade the attic insulation then do that first, and then get a contractor to do a real load calculation. If your windows are double paned and fairly tight, then I would think a 40K BTU furnace and a 2 ton furnace are the correct sizes. As far as equipment goes, I own Carrier Infinity equipment and so far I like it. The Bryant equipment is exactly the same. I am a fan of 2 stage furnaces and AC and in my opinion are worth the extra money. Trane/American Standard is also very good. I have no direct experience with Lennox, but from what I understand Lennox uses unique parts. The parts have to come from Lennox and are sometimes harder to get. I think you said your current furnace is 11 years old and 80% efficiency. Normally I would say to keep the furnace another 5-10 years. But if you plan to live in this house 10 or more years then you may want to consider replacing and keeping the correct matching AC. Here are my opinions on the quotes: Company #1 Quote #1: Carrier Performance AC is good, I don't think you need 2.5 tons and the price seems expensive. Quote #2 Carrier Infinity 58CVA furnace is very good, but it is only 80% AFUE. I recommend spending a little more money and installing a 95%+ AFUE furnace. The Infinity 24VNA9 is overkill for our climate. You can save money buy dropping down a model or two and getting an AC that has a SEER rating of about 16. If the AC is sized properly and is 2-staged then I highly doubt you need a whole house dehumidifier. That would be a waste of money in my opinion. Company #2 and #3 I am not an expert on Lennox, but I think some of these models don't compare that the Carrier Infinity in terms of features. The fact you are being quoted different AC sizes is a red flag for me. Company #4 Quote #1 Bryant Legacy 2.5 ton for $4600 seems reasonable. I would want to see a load calculation to see if you really need 2.5 tons. If you keep your current furnace you will have a mismatched system. It will work, but you don't know the SEER rating, Quote #2 Bryant Evolution is the same as Carrier Infinity. Very nice equipment but the price seems high. Here is quoting a 2 ton. So why is he quoting 2.5 ton in Quote #1? I see no size listed for the furnace. Quote #3 He now quotes the 3 ton size. I guess he thinks you may want to hang meat in your basement. A 3 ton AC, even if it were 2-stage, is going to short cycle and you will still have a humidity problem. Once you discover this he may suggest getting a whole house dehumidifier. Correct sizing is critical. This guy does not seem to care. In summary you haven't found a good contractor yet. Carrier rebates start March 1st. The March - April time frame is the best time to get quotes in our area. Contractors are not busy and the pricing is a little better.