I am in similar situation; have decided to put three individual pendants over long counter containing sink in middle and two more over a peninsula parallel to it 6.5 feet away. I didn't consider anything but matching ones, very small and simple, with a goal of having bold pattern on the window treatments that they will be hanging in front of. I found a few photos in books that showed multiple pendants and generally they used same model for the whole set but some varied in color of the globe of glass or used a diff. shape or scale of globe. Except when a pendant was more like a chandelier or whatever over a table; then it didn't have to have a relationship to the sink or island. Is there a reason as to why you don't want your pendants to match? Otherwise, standard practice seems to be to use a variant of one style on the other, such as a double-globe pendant on island and single globe matching one in another position. Same manufacturer and same finish, but sometimes with some kind of variation. I've been fighting the in-ceiling lights trend for task lighting, which I find to dissipate light instead of focusing it and which I cannot use in my ceiling-attic situation. What's your reason for pendants?

Thanks for all the ideas and information. I'm not sure if this matters but the overhang of counter behind the bases, about 8", is intended to be on hinges that allow that section to flip down. I need that flexibility there in order to be able to use all the leaves in my DR table. Cpartist, because that overhang is not going to be a solid counter, the Mockett won't work there or over the drawer and tray bases without us having to cut short the top drawers. I hate to lose that storage. But I'll keep the option in my back pocket. Avatarwalt, if I understand it right, the reason for this rule is because some small appliances only have 2-foot power cords. They don't want people to use extension cords in the kitchen. Probably especially by a sink. Thus, when there's a break in the counter (aisle, doorway, sink, range, etc.) there must be a plug-in no more than 24" away and then every 48" along a stretch of continuous counter. Rebunky, that grid isn't 1-foot squares. It was done on the Ikea planner and, for some bizarre reason, the grid is an odd size, around 7.5", I think. We've actually scooted back the peninsula a tad since the drawing was made, Our aisle will be 62" counter-to-counter. LOVE it. If your DH has any tips when he awakes, I'd sure appreciate it. Desertsteph, see my response to cpartist. That would be a great idea if we weren't planning on flipping down the counter. Although, as I'm typing, maybe that would still work as I probably will never need it anyway. It then becomes a wall plug for the dining/sitting area. Hmmm.... Mushcreek, another see my response to cpartist. That was a great solution for your space but it won't work in mine. Your windows go to the counter, right? Interesting, I never thought of the plug-in problem in that situation. That's something to be aware of when we help people plan their kitchens, isn't it? Thanks for bringing that to our attention. Our window over our prep sink is just a few inches above the counter, just wide enough to put in a plug placed horizontally. I plan on all the kitchen plugs to be placed low like that, horizontally, so the one by the sink isn't an oddball. Sophie, that's an interesting idea. I'd prefer not to add another 1.5" to the peninsula length. I would really like that access point to be about 4-5" wider than it is but then I'd have to get rid of the tray storage there which is so conveniently located. I wish we had gone with a 33" sink base to gain a couple of inches. The opening is going to be 44" which is adequate but it would have been nicer to have it just a bit wider. Another idea to keep in my back pocket. Thanks! Scrappy, thanks for that link. Very helpful. I didn't realize there was a different rule for peninsulas and islands. If I'm reading it right, this means our plan meets code and we're good to go. Hope so as our intended locations make the most sense to me as they'll be accessible if we ever did need to plug something in there, which will be rare if ever, but not require weird tweaks like cutting short drawers like the Mockett would cause. The one at the end of the peninsula will be in the top of the tray cabinet, just under the single, top drawer, and none of my trays are that tall so it's dead space anyway. I'll double-check with our code officer. Thanks again! Thanks again, Everyone! If anybody else has further ideas or knowledge about this, I'll look forward to hearing it. ETA: jdez, I will. But now, with Scrappy's link, I have ammunition to argue for my plan, if necessary. :)

IMO it is best to bite the bullet and repair the electrical to be in the right spot.But without pictures and also pictures of the fixture I am only guessing. BTW who made the mistake?

And for any who saw that I deleted my post for the two pictures? Yes. because just because solid feels bulkier to me :........maybe it doesn't to the OP. They both FIT. it's the feel: ) The Target LAMP shade test is still a good way to test before you buy, unless an easy return on the actual pendant. I agree - blowing balloons for a test should be outlawed. What a PITA!!!! LOL