K&N filters, (and other "performance" filters as well), will provide no benefit on applications such as this. They're marketed as "less restrictive" and they are "less restrictive", but it's to a point that the *less restrictive-ness* doesn't matter. I can put a 2" spray nozzle on my 5/8" garden hose and it will be "less restrictive" than the nozzle it has now. I can wire up my house outlets with welding cable instead of the "restrictive" wire they have now. But at what point does it not matter? ;-) Parts stores that sell them often have the ridiculous ping-pong ball demo set up on the counter. You can put an OEM filter element over the inlet to a small fan and turn the machine on and see how high the ping-pong ball floats in a clear plastic tube. THEN, you can put a K&N element over the fan inlet and try the "test" again. The ball floats higher in the clear tube, (which convinces many folks that haven't really thought about the whole thing), that their current OEM filter is costing them hp and mileage. It's funny really. OEMs spend lots of $$ designing and building machinery, and then screw up when it comes to doing the math and figuring out how much air flow is appropriate for the application? Proponents often point out that some vehicle manufacturers have used "performance" filters in some factory applications...and they have. But if filters *in general* were "too restrictive", why aren't the performance filters used across-the-board? Small engines aside, take a look at the dyno snippets that are included in these products' ads. The hp gains that are promoted occur at higher rpms than where the vehicle in question will spend any of its time. Money savings over the vehicle's lifetime? Perhaps....if you don't count your parts and labor for washing and "recharging" with oil at certain intervals, or, you don't consider these filters' proven lack of effectiveness in fine dust conditions. This is amusing as well: "Since very few people have their L&G rides correctly jetted (everybody doesn't live at sea level) they are running rich already. Starving the airflow usually will gas foul plugs. " If your mower is running fine and you're not fouling plugs and your eyes aren't watering while you're out mowing, then your jetting is just fine. I think you'll find that nowadays, small engines in general run lean if anything. You used to be able to set the choke and then turn the choke off as soon as the engine started. Now, you have to feather it for a minute or two. Take the "lean already" engine we're talking about and start it up cold without the air filter on and see if it's worse. It will be. Your mower doesn't need more airflow, nor is your OEM filter "too restrictive". It's marketing.

There will be no mention of the nozzle size on the burner plate, but rather a range of acceptable nozzles. To check the nozzle size, remove the four small screws between the blast tube of the burner and the fan housing and gently slide the assembly out; the nozzle size and angle will be listed on the nozzle itself. you may have to shut of the oil supply and disconnect the line to do this. If it's a becket burner, look down the blast tube with a light and be sure the retention head hasn't burned off, if it has, you'll have to remove the three bolts that hold the blast tube and flange to the boiler and slide it out, the retention head is held on with two small screws and is easy and cheap to replace, for a .75gph nozzle, you'll need an "F-3" retention head available at any parts store for a few dollars. With a .75gph flow, regardless of combustion chamber size an 80� hollow pattern nozzle is usually best. If you install a new head and nozzle, you'll need to adjust the air/electrodes. Electrodes, 1/8" inch in front of nozzle, 3/16 above the leading edge and 1/8" gap. Air, adjust the air band untill the flame tips begin to get dark and smoke, then open the air band untill it just stops (it helps to hold a flashlight into the barometric damper opening to be sure when all smoke ends), then open it a bit more to be sure. It's reccomended that after this initial setting someone at some point contacts a tech to set it up exactly w/ a bach kit. Keep in mind that the lower the temp on the aquastat typically the better the efficiency and lower fuel consumption, but if there is baseboard heat, you'll lower the max btu output, which may be ok, but be cautious about lowering the temp too much. you are correct, typically the storage tank is run on it's own zone just like any other zone in the home, the coil is either removed or capped. The only deposits you will have to worry about are combustion related deposits in the flame side of the heat exchanger, a pro will have the proper equiptment to clean all of the hard-to-reach areas, but a good brushing down with a small broom or stiff brush to the areas that you can access won't hurt at all. In a pressurized hot water boiler, provided there hasn't been a constant leak in the system (so that fresh water is always entering) you'll have no scale buildup or problems on the water side of the boiler, the best thing you can do there is leave the (black) water where it is.

Havac man: I have a masonry, wood-burning fireplace in my below-grade family room (split-foyer style home, about 1800 sq ft). I have an inefficient insert - it puts out heat but burns a lot of wood quickly. I use it to suppliment my heat pump and the insert will keep the family room at 68F in the coldest of Maryland weather. The layout of the family room does not allow heat to rise easliy to the first floor but I am still putting BTU's into the house and warming the floor of the living room above. I have a chainsaw and often go on scavenging trips to cut my own wood. As my area north of Baltimore is being developed at a lightening fast pace, free wood is becoming tougher to find. My wife thinks that I should attend FFWA meetings (Free Fire Wood Anonymous). I only bought 1 cord last year (mild winter except for Feb) for $140. I live in a development so I don't want to go too crazy with storing the wood. I am going into next season with about a cord and a half. Let's see....I95 North to New Hampshire with my Honda Civic hatchback for another scavaging hunt? Nah, I'll wait until fall to entertain that thought.

Thanks Baymee: Looked at that fuel comparison, seems like oil replacement is the best option. At my age (61) I also have to look at payback time. Here in B.C. Canada, we have gotten a price for a new 86% effecient oil-boiler at $3600 installed. And we already have a 250 gallon tank. Wheras, the propane boiler is $7500 plus, including installation. As for daddo, yea, could look at cheaper fuel, but we do buy the more expensive bio-fuel. 20%canola-80%oil. Eases my conscience a bit-lol. Just in case you guys were wondering what it costs to heat a 1700 sq.ft. home here, it goes like this= 4 cords firewood-$660-60 gallons propane-$275, and this years total oil bill was-$720. or approximately $1700 per year. I suppose in todays world, that isn`t all that bad. The reason for the different heat sources is this old house is a four level split. *And when the power goes out cause of a wind storm, we like to have that back-up. Thanks again for the feedback. George