NC. Despite the sarcasm here, I don't think the quote is that bad but I guess it depends if it is new construction. A 95% furnace is of course over the top for Alabama. We have a 90% furnace and that was only because it is in the basement (and the exhaust for a 80% made them equal cost). Our NG bill for this year was about $200 total - and it was a really cold winter for all....Try to make 2 95% furnaces pay off in Alabama - I can't imagine. There are 2 levels of Infinity/Evolution - Seer 16 and Seer 19. Which one are you at? Again - trying to make these things make sense from a payback period is nuts to say the least. I'll assume that you don't have/want heat pump and your HDDs are 1/2 of ours. So you might have a $400 NG bill for the year. So those 95% are saving roughly $60 a year over the cheapy 80% furnaces. I expect you are paying around $3000 in increased costs since you have 2. That is a 50 year payback (neglecting time value of money and inflation). Since very few furnaces would last 50 years, they never pay off. Chew on that. Your best bet is straight heat pump. You would likely save $5000 up front and save $100 a year since I bet your electricity is less than or equal to $.10 a kilowatt. Unless you are planning for the next ice age or live in a really cold section of Alabama (is there one?). Why not heat pump? You have to answer that question to get a rational response here. Also plug in your zip and get HDDs. Also, is this new construction and if not, what is your envelope like? Do you have any insulation? If old construction, what did you have before? What were your costs?

md The HVAC equipment selected is top of line. two observations. you need a load calculation in writing. I am concerned your HP condensor might be undersized. and you will not get superior comfort and temp control from one system for a two story home with basement without zoning controls and the correct ductwork system. two systems would be better. it is rare situation that a homeowner can justify new HVAC with a reasonable payback. don't worry over that little detail. IMO

Thanks for all the support Dave. The installer just left having completed the job. In the end we decided to take your advice and install a remote temp sensor in the media room to relay the temp in that area. This should help to neutralize the significant heat output of the projector and keep the HT room cooler. I now have an extra SYSTXBBUIZ01 controller that needs to find a new home. I just discovered that the main furnace in living room is a 315A too and is currently wired to a Thermidistat via the std pins on the furnace. Am I losing any benefits by not using a communicating controller via the 4 pin green connector? Is there any reason why I can't wire this Z01 (zone) evolution controller up to the furnace directly? The manual shows it should be wired into a damper system but I don;t see why it can't go directly to the furnace.

Yes, there was a Duct D as well. They followed that plan well and I think they did a great job with the ducts. All of them are taped with the metal tape and have goop all around the seams so it looks to be sealed quite well. I will insist they put in the modulating dampers and will give them the list of items you mentioned. They have already grumbled some on the cost of the modulating dampers. I will find out tomorrow and give an update. What might be some of the pitfalls of configuring the system you mentioned above? I am going to keep a close eye on this and would like to ask them to do the proper things. Thanks a bunch. I feel much better after chatting with you.