If you are truly unhappy, contact the place you purchased the unit. See if you can do an exchange. Yes, it may cost you more money, but you'll be happier in the long run.

All washers have a lid switch, and many now won't fill or do anything with the lid open. Some are accessible for triggering manually, some aren't. Did you order the machine sight-unseen? Or did you examine it in a store display, but didn't notice there's no water level control for manual selection?

Why not modify your laundry habits a tad -- add your liquid detergent to bottom of the basket, then the clothes -- start the machine and let it run without peeping, give it a chance to do what it's supposed to do. Maybe you'll find it works OK. It apparently works well enough that Whirlpool is offering two models with the auto water level feature, and also the latest Kenmore 800.

Your old Whirlpool could have been repaired. Leaking into the tub, stopped by turning off the water is simply a matter of replacing the water valve, an easy and relatively inexpensive repair. Leaking on the floor might be the pump, which also is easy and inexpensive. Your new washer uses the same transmission and pump design as the 15-year-old machine.

Thank you both for posting comments and suggestions, most appreciated.

I thought about exchanging it, but since it was my fault for not doing more advance research, I wouldn't feel good about sending it back... even for an exchange. I imagine I'll get over it in time. I only wanted to voice my comments in case others were interested in those features before purchasing. Sort of a review and comment post, not an all-out complaint.

I did a lot of research, short of seeing one on display. Perhaps I read into what I wanted to read, rather than the actual facts, on the Whirlpool site. I think I interpreted the Water Level Sensor to be a selectable feature, a feature I could use or not use. I will continue to try using the Energy Saving features. If it bothers me too much, I'll just fill the tub with water each time and use it as I did the old machine. It's probably a case of making the adjustment to doing things a different way, something that will pass as I get used to it.

We considered repair, but 15 years is pretty old and we felt we had gotten enough from it. When I inquired about repairs for the water dripping into the tub last year, it seems I was given estimates starting at $150-$200. Not worth it in my book.

I'll wash the clothes using the energy features, surely it isn't as bad as I think it is. If I notice a problem with the clothes, I'll go back to the old way of filling the tub. I fully expect it to work out okay. Thanks again.

15 year isn't too old for repair. Water valves and pumps are both easy DIY repairs, details are available online at various DIY repair and parts sites. A pump runs about $40, water valve $20 to $25.

Is it not enough water to wash the clothes? If you use the sensor do they come clean. I was looking at the WTW57SW but ordered a FL instead.

My washer is 12 years old but think it is the lid switch. I had it replaced last year and didn't think it was worth getting it fixed either. I hope I didn't make a mistake. Mine gets delivered Tues.

Won't the bulky cycle give you a higher water level? BTW, do you know offhand what the spin speeds are on it? I noticed something about the quick cycle had a higher spin speed than normal.

IIRC, Direct-drive Whirlpool toploaders spin at 640 RPM high speed, 420 low speed. This model should be the same unless the clutch and drive mechanism has been redesigned. The Quick cycle couldn't be any faster than the regular cycle unless there's a higher motor speed somehow involved.

I haven't tried the bulky cycle, but I do recall reading that I would might get a full load of water by selecting that cycle. Thank you for the reminder! I feel that my clothes are certainly getting clean, but I have resorted to filling the washer with water most of the time. I'll gradually shift over to using the washer as it was intended.. with low water fill. Tough adjustment for me right now.

Old habits die hard. It's an interesting machine though, especially for the money. Keep us posted on how it works. I can't find what the agitation stroke is on these. Kind of frustrating. Seems to me I saw a Maytag was only 100° or so where Speed Queen is nearly twice that. Would make a difference on cleaning I would think.

Dadoes, Thanks, I did find that, but what has me curious is the comment on the page "Quick Wash Cycle Clean small, lightly soiled loads in less time. Plus, increased spin speeds extract more water for faster dry times." (emphasis added) Unless they're suggesting that the other cycles use the "gentle" spin? I'm quoting from here and if you click on the Quick Wash Cycle "more" link.

Maytag agitator toploaders (except the Bravos model) are built now with the Whirlpool direct-drive transmission mechanism, so any machine with that mechanism theoretically should have the same agitation speed and stroke. Only way to change it is if they have different gearing in the trannys used in the Maytags, or whichever. Brands/models I'm aware that use an appreciably longer stroke include Speed Queen, GE/Hotpoint Hydrowave, probably Oasis/Cabrio/Bravos agitator models, and Fisher & Paykel. Not sure about Frigidaire.

Cynic, I recall that description on the Quick cycle. I don't have enough data to make an informed comment on it, other than that unless the overall spin speed has been increased on that model, I can't really figure a way to make it faster on just the Quick cycle. I doubt they'd use a low motor speed for spin on all cycles except Quick.

Far as I can determine, there are no changes on the 58ESV that would provide for a faster spin on a particular cycle. What I'm thinking is that the web designer copied or was given the Quick cycle description from a frontload model, which they do have multiple spin speeds and typically would use the highest one for Quick.