As you can see, I've been way behind in my responses! Thanks so much everyone for taking the time to help w/ this matter! My contractor says the Wirsbo (or whatever it's called now - hopefully it's not an old stash - ha) is good and he swears doesn't change the taste of the water. Other friends have said that's what most plumbers use now, yada yada. I haven't used the water out of the fridge yet (taken the time to read the fridge's manual and figure out how to get the water and ice and filter going properly, filling up a few gallons of water to flush it out, etc.) but the moment I catch up, I will. Meanwhile, I'm going to cross my fingers and hope this will be good enough. If it's not, well, I'll deal w/ that at the time. If the water tastes funny I'll give that *some* time but I'm not willing to waste several weeks on funny-tasting water so hopefully all will be well. creek side - thanks for sharing your experience w/ Pex. Does it matter that it's not just the fridge line but also w/ the new sink faucet? Hopefully not. He ran it along the unfinished basement ceiling and then it comes up underneath the sink cabinet where he put a shutoff valve. There's no risk of UV light cause even in the basement - as far as I recall - there are only North windows that are darkened from previous owner's covering them w/ some funky old plastic. If we ever finish the basement I may consider covering up better. Assuming the stuff makes it that long. I agree that he was out of line and that at least my contractor should have asked me whether I had a preference. Oh well - I made my feelings known to my contractor without being unnecessarily confrontational. It's amazing how much you learn your first-time doing remodeling! :-o antss - Thanks for the positive feedback about Pex as well as putting the shutoff under the sink. Well, I wasn't THAT clear w/ my contractor - haha - but I surely let him know how I felt about the plumber not discussing it w/ me which hopefully by default was made clear that my CONTRACTOR should have discussed it w/ me. I sense he won't make that mistake again since he appears pretty intelligent and since something similar has happened w/ the electrician once before! There are lots more little decisions to be made and I've been pretty clear w/ him since the Pex issue that in the future I'd like to know whenever one is about to be made. Re. the electrician, one of them decided where my backsplash outlets would go without discussing w/ me first. The electrician originally put in two sets of outlets on either side of the sink (4 in each) and I had him redo it and put in 2 sets on each side of the sink - one closer to the sink and one toward the end of the counter, w/ 2 + 2 instead of 4. I let my contractor know, then, that I found it odd that the electrician hadn't asked me how I wanted the setup to be. *Hopefully* this won't happen anymore (ugh) and hopefully I won't be charged for his having to undo that work. It makes me feel so petty and controlling to complain, even though I know in the end I have every right. aprince - awww, cute name. ;) Yes, I keep reading that about copper. It seems people are 50/50 on the matter, really. Well, take for instance creek side's comment below yours! davidro1 - thanks for the clarification re. Uponor vs. cheap plastic, as well as the importance of making sure it's very secure at the joint! weedmeister - haha thanks for aiding in my confidence! :) antss - yeah, "all can be fine if used properly and appropriately" makes perfect sense. AS LONG AS the water tastes good! creek side - well hopefully (all I can really do is hope at this point) the stuff hasn't been exposed to the sun or you know...bright lights. Here in the NW I doubt the plumber or anyone would have stored it outside, but who knows. davidro1 - you just reminded me that I meant to check the back of the fridge to see if he gave some extra length back there of the Pex. amcook - I seem to recall he used a T joint but I'd better double-check. I remember it looked pretty substantial. Thanks so much for the detailed suggestions/instructions, and for the picture! davidro1 - I'm 99% sure it's not a saddle valve. I'll go look now! Thank you...

There were three Intuitive Eco models available on the U.S. market, which is yours? Not clear why/how a burst hose caused the washer to fill to overflowing being as the supply hose is exterior to the machine ... unless the spewing water was directed into the machine (was the lid open?). Anyway, a dead machine is caused by a dead controller board. In the case of flooding there could be (but not necessarily) another/other components that shorted-out along with the board -- display board, water valves, pump motor, lid lock, etc. Each component would need to be tested for proper electrical readings. Replacement controller boards run toward $173 - $189 and $143 - $182. Possibly lower prices via eBay. I would repair if it was mine (although I can DIY and avoid labor costs). F&P Intuitive Eco is a unique and very advanced/versatile toploader.

Laundry drain pipes are required to be 2", and you are required to drain the laundry through the use of a standpipe or another indirect method like pumping into a properly plumbed laundry tub. Because of the height requirements of a laundry standpipe, the best location for it is usually directly behind the laundry equipment. A properly sized laundry standpipe would be tall enough that it is usually visible behind the washer. This is dictated by local as well as national codes. The separate standpipe is required. You can't just join a drain line to the main drain. It must be a standpipe with the P-trap in the wall. THis protects you against sewer gas escaping into you home and potentially killing you. So, while a licensed plumber can possibly move your laundry standpipe to a more convenient location behind your washer for you, he will have to remove the drywall in that section to do so, and the standpipe must remain at the current height. A licensed plumber who will pull a permit for the work and have it inspected is your best choice. Flooding your home through an incorrectly installed laundry drain is a very real possibility, and your insurance would probably not pay if the install was not up to code.

I suppose low/no phosphate detergent is a good idea too. I agree that the lint trap prices are outrageous and wonder if there isn't such a thing as some sort of reusable plastic basket. They do seem like a good idea but I changed my system to a 2" drain and am on city water, the drain nearby ought to be fairly well flushed with the upstairs bathroom draining to a point near it (to flush the lint properly) but I guess you can't be too careful. I think the big downside to the lint traps is what happens if you don't clean or replace them. I wonder if you could use onion bags - the plastic netting - to do the same job, but you want to make very sure that they are well-anchored, you might end up with your drain blocked rather effectively by a big ball of lint trapped in that net, and it'd take a while to break down. Anchoring with cable ties might be the best.