The Miele washers are 2.5 cu.ft. Enough to handle the laundry of a family of three excluding king-size comforters. Electrolux makes washers with a reversible door. AjMadison lists them at 31.5 inches in depth. There are long hoses and cords attached to these appliances to reach water and power outlets even if not directly behind the appliance. You may want to try looking into telescopic dryer vents. These reach from the dryer to the duct behind the washer and require little clearance. The ones I found will, however, still need the dryer to be three inches away from the wall. Alex

Shawneeks, I won't pretend to be an expert and I don't know what part of the country you live in but a washer lint filter is a good idea in my opinion. I have one that I had installed after having my new septic system installed to the tune of about ten thousand dollars. I live in the Massachusetts on the coast where the soil can be anything from sandy to clay with huge boulders. I also worked in the local Health Department for several years (where the unhappy people came for permits when their septic systems had failed and they were desperate to close on a sale or needed to be able to bath, flush and do laundry). The worse the soil the more expensive the replacement system. So any preventive measure that is as simple as a lint filter is worth it in my opinion. I can recommend a site that is very informative below. Explains how septic systems work and how synthetic fibers particularly can be an issue. This filter is situated above the outlet pipe and the washer drains into it. The actual filter can be lifted out and cleaned very easily. I have a couple of backups for if I want to give a more thorough cleaning but don't want to interfere with the laundry cycle. There are different filters that filter out different size micron fibers. I had trouble with the finer size filter but have used the larger micron filter for probably 7 years now. Some septic systems also have a filter screen between the tank and leaching field which can get clogged with effluent and has to be literally lifted out and hosed off to get the system flowing again. I know of instances where people have complained frequently that their new system doesn't work but it's been because the filter had to be off. There are some things that you just can't help having to flush into your septic sytem but it might not hurt to take the precautionary measure of a lint filter in this equation. In reference to garbage disposals, in Massachusetts septic systems have to be designed significantly bigger to accomadate the use of a garbage grinder adding significantly to the cost of a new system or repair. Most engineers will put a disclaimer on their septic system design plans stating in effect that the system was not designed for the use of a garbage grinder. Most people don't know a lot about septic systems (why would they?). They don't find out there's a problem generally until it's already too late. I wouldn't have known any of this either if not for my job and I've had a cesspool, then septic system ever since purchasing my home 23 years ago. I wish I new then what I know now. Hope this info helps. I know it's been awhile since this was originally posted and you may already have built your house but this is something you can do even after the fact. Here is a link that might be useful: Septic Protector

Although there could be several causes, the most common cause is the supply valve most likely needs a new rubber valve seat washer. If you have a few hand tools and are a bit mechanical, you can do this yourself. The part is very inexpensive (about 2 cents each) and can be purchased anywhere, even Walmart. Most times they are sold in packages of various common sizes. I suspect that since this valve is commonly left in the open position to supply the washing machine, over 25 years the rubber has hardened and a small build up of deposits has collected on it. Even if it is just dirty, you'll have to open it up to clean it and it would be best to replace the rubber seat. If you want to go all the way, you may as well also change the "O" ring(s) on the stem itself (another 2 cents). If you do all this while you're in there, the valve will be as good as new when you put it back together. The whole job should take about 10 minutes for a newbie and about 2-5 for a pro. To have a pro come and do it could cost between $75.00-$125 depending on your area and who you call. When you buy the kit for about $1-$2, it'll also have some screws in it. When you replace the rubber seal, you should go ahead and use a new screw when reassembling. Be sure to replace the hoses on the washing machine with good quality hoses while you are at it. Burst washing machine hoses are one of the number one causes of home flooding and Murphy's Law says it will be while you are away on vacation. Another option...if you are not in the habit of opening and closing these valves, put a bucket under the drip or, buy a plastic cap that screws over and seals the spigot and finish the remodel. When you hook back up, the whole thing is a non-issue. Personally, I close those valves off when I am gone for more than a day. Even good hoses, and internal washing machine valves have the potential to spring a leak.

Drain line seems to be clogged downstream. Snake from the washer drain for a good length and see if that helps.