Let me run this by you. I have a semi hermetic compressor valve plate in my hand right now. The suction pressure is 0 high side 600. What's wrong ? As i said before. Does the compressor pump down ? That has to be done or you will be playing guessing games all summer. If it doesn't the comp. is bagged. Put the compressor in a closed loop and if it equalizes in 5 seconds it's bagged. If it doesn't equalize it's bagged. That will eliminate one problem. Then work on the other problem. How fast does the suction pressure drop ? That will tell you how bad the restriction is if the compressor is good. It's just experience. Sorry about the trick question on the valve plate. I know what is wrong with it. Oh Yah. The suction pressure would be much higher if the compressor was bad. YES. If the valves were carboned shut and suction pressure was 0 is the compressor good or is there a restriction ?

I'm replacing my ADP coil after two years of operation. I have a small leak in one of the capillary tubes. When I spoke with a Trane authorized dealer I was informed of two things. First the ADP coil does not carry the same warranty as Trane 1-5yrs in my case vs. 5-10 for trane. Second, even though ADP is going to replace the coil they will not warranty it beyond the date of the original start-up. ADP's clock starts running 1yr after manufacturing. They don't keep records of when they were sold or who they sold them to. This is probably not the case it's their customer service center passing this along. So as I would see it if your Heat and AC guy is pairing an ADP coil with your AC it's about cost. Here in Ga many companies working for builders rig these combos to save the builder money and to keep a job with them. Save yourself the headache and go with all trane parts because you aren't going to get the warranty with ADP. Most importantly our service men are receiving calls on these all the time. ADP builds them to order now so they don't have as much standing inventory as they once did, but consider this. They build a coil in the hay-day of building and it sits on a shelf for 6 mos. The builder has a system installed around that same time but doesn't sell the house and 18 mos later the bank owns it. Someone comes along buys the house from the bank and has the system turned on and the coil is already out its 1yr warranty. The Trane furnace is still in warranty but the coil is not. Just a thought.

Nice price on electricity. I pay at least twice that. Here are some numbers for you, based on your figures: A kilowatt of electricity is about 3,413 BTUs, and is $0.0636, which works out to be 53,660 BTUs per dollar. Electricity is 100% efficient, meaning that there are no combustion losses that go up the chimney at your house. Propane has about 92,000 BTUs per gallon, and is $2.50 gallon, which works out to be about 36,800 BTUs per dollar. Your existing water heater is prolly on the order of 60% efficient, which means that 40% of the BTUs out of a gallon of propane end up going up the chimney, and not in your house. As such, you are getting about 22,000 BTUs per dollar out of it. If you went with a new water heater, such as the Polaris which is 95% efficient, you would be getting about 34,900 BTUs per dollar after combustion losses. Based on your posted information, electricity would be about 65% the cost of propane for heating with a 95% efficiency water heater, and 41% of the cost of propane using your existing water heater. An electric water heater won't work because they donÂt produce enough BTUs to keep up with the demand on the house. But an electric boiler might, depending on the model and how manu BTUs your house requires to keep it warm on the coldest day of the year. An electric boiler will require a lot of electricity, though, prolly on the order of 100 amps. A 200 amp electric service to your house would be the minimum needed to run the electric boiler. You still need to address the ducting losses through your attic. If yours are anything like mine were, that is half the problem right there.

Thanks Klem - I'll do some more homewk, but I am also thinking of getting a service all done. There was some condensation leaking from the plenum box where the coil resides. I think the primary line was clogged, but since I poured some 50-50 bleach/H20 down into the primary line, it cleared out the line. The primary line empties into the P-trap of the upstairs bathroom sink. The sink drain was clogged w what looked like puke and other pieces of solid debris, I plunged it clean to make the drain clear qkly, but then the funk went straight down to the master bathroom downstairs which is right under the sink that was clogged. The whole sink [and worse this was my wife's side] was almost full to the top. I plunged multiple times and only brought up more funk, so I removed w plastic cup a lot of the water and funk. Plunged again and more stuff came up - nothing draining. Went and bought a Rigid Augur and tried clearing sink, but also went to shower drain and removed a whole cat worth of hair...augured this drain, then augured wife's sink. Still no draining in wife's sink. Poured a whole bottle into each shower drain and sink drain..left for 30 min's and poured 3-5gal of hot water in each drain..all went down well. My sink across from hers was never a prob, nor the spa. Put all drains back together, went upstairs in attic and poured bleach/H2O into primary line again and had daughter listen to where it empties into P-trap of upstairs bathroom sink...It flowed well, AND no more issues w any drains of master [sink or shower] not working well. The water pan below the unit in question had a lot of water in it, but not enough to drain out of the secondary drain line. I will go upstairs each day to make sure pan is evaporating....the never ending joys of home ownership...AC down here is important, even in winter. :) Thanks, tstex