If he did not want to install your equipment I wouldn’t have a problem with that at all. As long as he installs your wire correctly you will be fine. You can actually install the equipment yourself if you like which isn't that hard to do at all. There are many tutorials and videos online to show you how to do it correctly. For keypads you would just be punching down some cat and speaker wires (positive and negative) are self-explanatory. HTD is a great source of showing you how and what to do. If that isn't something you want to do you can easily find someone who can come in and install them for you once you move in with no problem. If you are building I can already tell you that builders like to charge a premium for this as they have access to the house while the walls are open and it’s so much easier to run wires. Not sure what it cost in your area looking back at my paperwork our charged $340 for one room of prewire. This consisted of (1) cat5e & (1) 16/4 homerun from each keypad back to the main hub area and (2) 16/2 speaker wire runs from the keypad up to the ceiling area. This is the preferred method of wiring as it will offer you the options in the future to change zones/sub-zone around or choose an amplified or a-bus system. I personally am not a fan of a-bus and will be going with the HTD mid-level system as well. The keypad areas have blank plates you can remove and pull the wire thru at a later date. The speaker wires were ran to the ceiling area where each speaker would be and connect to ceiling joist with a twist tie behind the drywall (I would not have speakers wires pulled to a box in the ceiling because I didn't want blank plates on my ceiling before I installed the speakers). This would allow you to pull the speaker wire anytime you were ready to install speakers and not have speaker wires dangling from your ceiling. After he finishes wiring the house it will be very important for you to go in and takes lots of pictures and video would be great as well. This way you will know where everything is behind the walls and avoid poking holes in drywall looking for wire. I had planned for 12 zone of whole house audio (6 zones and 6 sub zones). A sub zone is a zone that piggy backs off a main zone and have to play what the main zone is playing. A sub zone is controlled by a volume control. Therefore my charge would have been from the builder $4,000 plus not including any equipment just to wire my house. That was absolutely crazy to me and something I was not willing to pay for. Not sure if you will have the option or even wanted to but I ended up pre-wiring my own house. I spent about $1,000 worth of wire (cat5e, 16/4 speaker wire, 16/2 speaker wire, 12 gauge wire, RG6QC wire, misc. item) and over three days with my nephew’s help was able to finish. I would also suggest while the walls are open you go ahead and decide if you want to run 5.1 or 7.1 for surround sound speakers and have those wires run as well. I would also have them run hdmi cables as well (I didn't and ended up having to climb in the attic as my equipment is across the room from my TV). Now if you don't have the option to run your own wire and are looking for ways to save some money here are a few options: 1. Use cat5e instead of cat6. I won't get into the debate of which catxx cable is better but do your research and you will see cat5e will suffice for whole house audio and any data you need in your house as well. 2. Look to see what type of attic access you have. If you have a two story house some rooms will be virtually impossible to get to without tearing out drywall, etc. So if you want whole audio in those rooms, I would make them a priority on the 1st floor to get pre-wired. If you do have attic access and are handy those rooms whether on 1st of 2nd floor can be done at a later date (don't forget your patio also :) 3. For areas over fireplaces or where TV’s will go have them run conduit(flex tubing) so if technology changes you can run your new wire thru the conduit. 4. If you haven't thought about it I would also run future tubes from basement to 1st floor or if no basement from 1st floor to 2nd floor so that you can have the option of running wires later. Most builders are going to recommend high end systems like Russound, Nuvo, etc. For my needs HTD and Monoprice speakers will fit our needs. It all basically depends on how handy you are and what your budget is. As I'm sure you are aware now the pre-wiring can add up quickly so prioritize your needs versus wants and go from there. Did I need 12 zones of audio? NO, but that is what I wanted and luckily I was able to run it myself. If I didn’t have that option all of the rooms on the 1st floor I didn’t have access to from the attic and I wanted audio would have definitely got pre-wired and the 2nd floor would have waited. Hope it helps, Chris

Laat2 you were right on the money about the fridge being 38 degrees when the freezer is 10 below!!. I turned the freezer knob as far over as it would go to the cold side.. The freezer is now10 below and the fridge is 38 degrees on the top shelf and about 36 degrees on the bottom shelf. That suits me just fine but since both dials are turned as far to the cold side as it will go just to get those temps, will that be a problem 5 years from now? Does an appliance like my fridge typically loose something as it ages that would make those settings not work. My prior refrigerators have always been set somewhere near the middle of the dial to get 38 degrees. Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer. I would rather not have to get a service person out even though its still under warranty>

Asko also makes smaller-size stackables that hold as much as a typical large capacity TL. They also make, or used to, a condenser dryer, though they are not as efficient as direct exhaust dryers (they make those, too.) Condenser dryers, which because of their adaptability to non-standard spaces, seem to find themselves in laundry rooms made from closets. This is not always a good thing, because condenser dryers really work best with unfettered access to fresh room air to operate as efficiently as possible. My own (ASKO) condenser dryer is in a very large room, and on some days it performs even less efficiently than normal when it certain room air temperature and humidity parameters are reached. They'd be reached much more quickly in a smaller, less-ventilated space like a closet. OTOH, Asko, which has a unique type of suspension, seems to perform better than some other brands when installed on second floors of old houses. I have both Miele and Asko machines installed side by side and the ASKO has less case vibration than the Mieles. I don't want to leave you with the impression that I only recommend ASKO for second floor installations. Both Bosch and Miele make similar machines, but at least some people have had vibration problems (perhaps due to unresolved installation issues, as well) in second-story installations. My own machines have always been on concrete floors so I have no personal info on that, other than observing my machines, all correctly installed, side by side. One other advantage of ASKO machines is that they need only have a cold water plumbed in as they heat all their own water during the cycle. On older models of Miele machines (mine for instance) it is possible to jury-rig a satisfactory cold water only feed, but I am not sure about Bosch or the newer Mieles. Not having to run a new, long hot water line is some savings. It is offset by the need for a 220V service, but you were likely to have to have one anyway since most closet-installed dryers are electric, not gas, because of gas ventilation issues. And all of these brands/models (Asko, Miele, Bosch) require only one 220V service line as the washers and dryers are interconnected and fed from the same plug. As for sizes, I think ASKO now makes a stackable 220v model that handles 13 lbs of dry laundry. To assess this for your own use, try weighing a couple baskets of laundry the way you are now sorting it. If your typical loads are now 13 lbs, or less, you'd need no change in your regimen to adapt to a FL. (The machines look small, but hold a quite surprising amount.) HTH, Molly

Boop, I did the same thing when my washer headed south. Just can't figure out how to get things clean with LG. After reading more reviews than is the norm, we are all having the same problems. LG seems to refuse to address them. The suggestion to keep the washer door open is ludicrous. Are you finding any specific option that works better than the others. I tried the Sanitary just the other day and was floored the timing was close to 2 hours. I haven't tried programming a cycle just for what I want. The reason I bought these was LG had the option to change the controls from top to bottom which makes it far easier to get to controls when stacked. So my dryer has the controls just above the washer. No issues with the dryer, it is great. If I thought the dryer could be attached on top of another brand, I'd admit to a mistake and buy a different washer.