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jakkom

Try using Pimenton for a nice kick

jakkom
14 years ago

In our area we have The Spanish Table grocery store, where they sell El Rey brand of pimenton - good, but not quite as richly flavored as the La Chinita brand (which you can now buy on amazon.com). My family are all foodies, and between four separate households, all on low-salt diets, it turns out we each go through quite a bit of this stuff!

This is excerpted from a recent NYTimes article:

NYTimes April 14, 2010 Power Ingredients

Piment: ItÂs Spanish for ÂBetter Than PaprikaÂ

By JOHN WILLOUGHBY

"DONÂT you hate paprika? O.K., maybe thatÂs too strong, but isnÂt it at least puzzling? Sure, itÂs handy for adding a dash of color to deviled eggs or, um, deviled eggs. And if you open a fresh container instead of the one thatÂs been sitting in your spice cupboard for years, at least it doesnÂt taste like red dust.

Then, on the advice of a Spanish friend, I spent a few days in a region west of Madrid called La Vera. I was interested in a byproduct of this cross-oceanic adventure  the chili peppers brought to Spain from the Americas.

Each fall for a few hundred years, the chilies grown throughout La Vera have been harvested and dried on racks, stretched over smoldering fires made from the wood of the local oak. After all the liquid has been slowly coaxed out of the peppers, they are stone ground. The result is pimentón de la Vera, a beautifully smoky, variably spicy, brick-red powder that gave me a whole new conception of paprika.

Over the next few days, I tasted pimentón in dishes from paella to the crisp spiced potatoes called papas bravas. I also discovered that itÂs a primary flavoring in Spanish chorizo.

I started finding plenty of ways to use it. A teaspoon or two wakes up guacamole and makes plain yogurt into a sauce for grilled fish. A tablespoon, sautéed at the start with the other aromatics, transforms any red-meat stew or braise. Toss a bit in a bowl with some nuts, and youÂve got an instant hors dÂoeuvre. ItÂs also particularly good in lentil or bean dishes, giving them a pleasant complexity.

But the way IÂve used this powder most often is in spice rubs for meats. When combined with some salt plus cumin, coriander or another spice you prefer, it adds a hint of the grill to roasts, steaks or chops cooked inside.

Given that, IÂm not sure why it was so long before it occurred to me that it would be ideal for that perennial faux favorite, "oven barbecue." Developed as a way of getting your barbecue fix when the weather is less than ideal, oven barbecue is most often enhanced with liquid smoke. But pimentón adds a smoother smokiness along with a sneaky heat thatÂs perfect with the rich fattiness of a brisket cooked to fall-apart tenderness.

Pimentón comes in three versions, with varying levels of heat depending upon the particular chilies used. Dulce is slightly sweet with very little heat; agridulce has only a trace of sweetness (but a good belt of heat); and picante is quite hot with just a trace of bitterness. In a Goldilocks kind of way, I find agridulce to be just right for cooking, though picante certainly has its merits when rubbed on meat.

All three remain surprisingly scarce in the United States, even in specialty food shops, though they are readily available by mail order. There are many good brands, but be sure the one you choose has "Consejo Regulation Denominación de Origen" somewhere on it, indicating the Spanish governmentÂs assurance that it was made in La Vera.

Many aficionados favor La Chinita brand. Personally, IÂm partial to Santo Domingo, not just for its flavor but for its crazily colorful container."

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