My reply is based upon the following facts. 1. There is no connection from the local power grid to your cabin. 2. The person that originally wired this cabin, followed the standard practices of the trade and the work conforms to the electrical code, including.......proper grounding of all aspects of the system. 3. And that the existing wiring system in the cabin was set up to receive 120/240 volt AC grid power at some point in the future, if it became available. The way I see it, you have two choices. You can either use a "whole house" transfer switch that will allow you to choose between the existing solar power supply or the genset. OR...... you can simply disconnect the wires from the solar power supply and tape them off inside the main panel for your cabin (fuse box/breaker box). You don't need to actually remove the wire from the fuse box itself. This would allow you to easily reconnect the solar power supply system in the future, should the need arise. The purpose of a transfer switch is to provide 100% isolation between two differing sources of power. So, one way or the other, this isolation must take place. IF you don't isolate the solar system from the genset, then the genset will feed power back into the solar supply. Damage may be done but even if it does not do damage, the solar system is a potential loss of wattage from your genset and you could also have a fire and electrical hazard. Once you disconnect the wires from the solar supply unit, you can install the correct wiring between the fuse box and wherever you are placing the genset. If your panel is a standard residential fuse or circuit breaker panel, then it requires 240 volts plus a neutral wire to connect to the genset. You also need to make sure that all grounding issues are taken care of. Some how, your genset must be grounded to the cabin's system. If you are not sure of how to go about this, then hire a licensed electrician to perform the work. Better to be safe, than electrocuted. You also need to consider that many gensets use about a gallon of gasoline per hour of run-time. If it was me, I would be looking at a diesel genset so that I could install a lockable fuel oil tank in the 250 to 500 gallon size on the property. The thought of transporting several five gallon cans of gas in my car wouldn't thrill me. No matter how hard you try not to, you will spill fuel from those containers. Gasoline is a highly inflammable and explosive fuel. You don't want those fumes inside your vehicle. Having a permanent tank that is refueled by a company with a tank truck has many benefits. Plenty of reserve fuel that is far more stable than gas and no worries about refueling a hot engine.

Most of your questions are answered in the owner's manual. To run off a cold water supply, you'll need a Y adapter, like this one, with standard (preferably braided burst-resistant) washing machine hoses attached from the Y adapter to the two inlets on the washer. Alternatively, you can get a Y adapter with short hoses already attached, though I'd like it better if they included burst-resistant hoses. There may be some that do, I haven't checked. Cold water prevents some types of stains from "setting" that may become permanent if immediately doused with hot water. But cold water doesn't clean very well, and some other types of stains will only come loose in warm or hot water, including stubborn shirt-collar discoloring. So the best way to make sure anything gets as clean and stain-free as possible is to fill the washer with cold water and detergent, and heat up the water as it washes to a relatively high temperature. 240v front-load washers are uniquely well suited for this, as they use only a small amount of water at a time, and have 2500-watt internal heaters that quickly bring cold water to high temperatures. And Miele made it very easy to know what temperature that is - no vague "warm" or "hot" labelling, much less "work clothes" or "bedding and blankets" or other descriptions that don't leave a clue as to what the machine will do with your clothes. On your Meile, set the dial to "120F" and your clothes will be washed at said temperature. Want something else? The dial adjusts from 85F to an on-the-verge-of-boiling 205F. And thanks to that 240v internal heater, it will reach your selected temperature quickly. Starting with cold water rather than mixed hot/cold will slow things down only slightly, maybe a few minutes. On 120v/15a washers with internal heaters, heating water is *slow* since there's only about 1000 watts allocated to the water heater. But with 240v/15a power, about 2500 watts are available for heating, which means it warms up fast and doesn't add much time if the water starts cold instead of lukewarm, as it would with a 120v washer. Your electrician is confused because the big NEMA 14-30P plugs and matching 14-30R recepticles are normally used with 208 or 240V/30 amp equipment, but the Miele washer and dryer, though equipped with "30 amp" plugs, each only draw less than 15 amps and are designed to be protected by a 240v/15a circuit breaker, not 240/30a. Show your electriction p.37 in the manual for a more detailed explanation. Note also the electrical requirements shown on placard on the machine itself, either the inner door frame or back panel near where the water and electrical connections are made. So yes, despite the 30A plug, both Miele machines are 240 volt/15 amp devices and each machine should be connected to a 240 volt/15 amp circuit with a 15 amp circuit breaker protecting it. There's no need for the Miele adapter box if you have room for two double-pole 15A breakers (the kind that take up two adjacent slots) in your electrical panel. I have a Miele W1926 which is a larger version of the 1918 (about 4" deeper inside and out) with the same requirements. It's a great machine. I can't help much with the dryer issues as I've never had a Miele dryer.

The ASTM regulations do state as lazypup says. When you are having new work done, you have every right to expect the work to be done properly and professionally. Your plumber knew to do everything 100% by the book. It's not baloney. The OP didn't question if this was to code. The OP wanted to know if it would hold in accordance with it's use and, it will if completely glued. I think the plumbers experienced assessment of the issue at hand determined he could save you some money and resolve the problem. An experienced plumber knows the characteristics of the materials he uses as well as the integrity of the configuration of the installation. This knowledge allows him to exercise a bit of discretion on specific issues. But I think you can be assured, if the joint was thoroughly glued, it won't come apart, for the reasons I stated. You have every right to push the issue and have the plumber return and redo the work. Of course, it will require additional supplies and additional charges for only that portion of the work. Of course, you shouldn't expect to pay him to undo whatever you are not satisfied with.

Counter to what Austin sees, in NC at least, a/c condensate lines are not plumbed into plumbing systems. They go to random exterior locations. We also don't have conspicuous overhead locations for overflow lines. At least not that I have ever seen. I am pretty sure they go to the same relatively hidden condensate locations usually (But I am going to try pouring water in them like Austin suggested to be sure). And I am sure they are condensate lines because I see water coming out them when the a/c is running. We have floats and shut offs in the pans. So the usual set up is 2 switches - one in the condensate line and one in the pan. When the condensate line gets plugged, the first switch goes off and the system shuts down. The pan switch is a fail safe in case the first one fails. Leads to a lot of HVAC calls when the system shuts down. This is with attic installs. I have seen just my own systems but I have lived in several houses and this is how it is everytime. So even with attic installs, we never have pipes over doorways (or in garage ceilings). Our hot water pans in attics also go to random exterior locations and the pans have no switches. Interesting variations in practices. Oklahoma is more like Texas than NC of course (Is slab construction one of the reasons for the difference?). This thread just made my next project to install an alarm on my attic hot water heater pan. I think I have an extra one from a basement HVAC pan install on the last house that was never hooked up and I took when we moved. In that case, the condensate line had a pump. I have to say, I don't like the look of those garage pipes but it is the garage.