Thanks - the EIM was a guess on my part b/c the tech who was here yesterday said we'd need another part in order to convert our 2-zoned system to a single zone (or zoneless? Which seems to allow lockouts - I took the upstairs zone 2 stat off the wall and set the master stat 0110 to 0 instead of 1 this AM and it retained the settings. But DH wants 2 zones). beenthere on hvac-talk asked about the zone controller (it's a W8835A) and hinted that there was something the installer missed on page 8 of some manual. I can't find anything on page 8 of the IAQ manual so I think he's referring to W8835 manual. Can't give more specifics there since no DIY, can you confirm I should have installer look at page 8 of W8835 manual? Maybe a jumper or a DIP setting? I don't think BT was referring to IAQ manual b/c we went through every setting yesterday (tech was here 2 hrs) and nothing worked, but when I changed it to a single stat and unzoned it worked this AM. I know our bills aren't horrible, but just trying to get this working most efficiently - starting with proper setup, then I'll mess around with setbacks (or not to setback, that is the question LOL). I don't think we're going to do anything about the 5kW final stage being used as a first stage - continue to run that way as tech recommended since I don't want 10kW first stage coming on all the time. I'd love to have 5kW 1st stage and then 10kW (he mentioned 5 and 5, almost like 3 stages, but set 0176 for 2 stage) if needed, but e didn't seem interested in changing the staging wiring, so what can I do? I'm not going to mess with it myself and void the warranty. So best I can do is try to affect the "staging" by having breaker for 10kW stage off until it's really cold. Thanks

Thanks, I was thinking that that price was a little high too, but I'm not in the business. FYI: The price includes: 1yr labor,10yr parts warranty,city inspection,secondary drain pan/float switch, freon filter, sealing... My guess is that all of those items are standard with any company replacing the coil. I'm hoping to get the home warranty company just to agree that there is a leak in the evaporator coil and give me a "cash out" option so I can have a good contractor do the repair. My guess is that I will not get anywhere close to the cost of the repair from them, but something is better than nothing. I didn't actually pay for the warranty, the seller did, so I am not as concerned about getting them to pay for it, as I am about getting a good system. In a year, I will not renew the home warranty, but I will have to live with my system. I am leaning toward replacing the whole thing with American Standard. I don't mind paying more to have it done right, I just don't want to get gouged. Do you think the complete system price is fair?

Normally a Ylo and O is jumpered and BK and R are Jumpered When using the Ylo terminal. A signal to Ylo creates 50% CFM from the blower, a signal to Ylo and Y the blower will run at 100% This would be used in XL19i or XL20i with 2 compressors. Say 4 ton XL20i system, has 2 compressors, a 4 ton and 2 ton compressor. In high stage blower runs at 100% with 4 ton compressor, low stage runs 2 ton compressor 50% of blower cfm capacity. BK and R with jumper removed capacity drops from High 80% and Low 40% I won't kid, it can get so mixed up with do this don't do that, that a normal install crew that only installs one of these a month may get confused and lost. This is why Trane has their communication controller XL900 with Comfort Link II and with that there is where my knowledge ends because I've spent the last 3 yrs with the Bryant Evolution and Carrier Infinity communication systems.

John I am looking into the IAQ conroller as well and had issues with the documentation. I wound up going to iaqsource.com (a place where I buy HVAC supplies) and looking at the Honeywell IAQ products as well as the Honeywell smart Thermostat that is similar to the IAQ model (same programming) but does not have the separate 3 wire interface module. If you click on the product details, they have a tab for documentation. Download the install and operator manuals for both and look them over. I found the documentation for the smart thermostat to be more informative on explaining the programming, but none of them are great. I had to read them all to figure out how to hook it up and program it. I can't answer all of your questions - but the room size input is for an Energy Recovery Ventilator or it's cousin the HRV. These units cycle periodically to bring in fresh air and dump stale air from your house, while exhanging the heat (or cool) and moisture from the outgoing conditioned air to the incoming air. The IAQ contoller does this by activating the ERV/HRV and the HVAC fan (this is an option you can select). The frequency and duration of this fresh air cycle can be determined by the IAQ controller either through a square footage of the home (one optional entry) or the number of bedrooms (another optional entry). If you don't have an ERV or HRV, then you won't need to make either of these inputs. The O terminal is used to control the reversing valve on the heat pump, which it sounds like you have. The IAQ controller allows you to define if the activation of O is is associated with either A/C On or Heat On since this can vary by brand. The external temperature sensor on the IAQ contoller is used for controlling humidifiers. I currently have 2 Honeywell humidifiers on 2 of my 3 heat pumps - and each of these has their own humidifier controller connected to their own external thermometer. The humidifier contoller uses outside air temp, inside air temp, air flow, and humidity level to automatically control the humidifier water flow. If you don't have that external themometer, then you have to manually adjust the humidistat - the auto feature doesn't work unless you have that external input. It looks the the IAQ contoller has a similar feature, but the thermometer for the IAQ controller is different from the one used with the Honeywell humidifiers (it's a 1 letter difference in part number, but the tranducer tables that show conversion of outside air temperture to Ohms is quite a bit deifferent between the two). I am not sure if this thermometer input is used for anything other than display of the outside air temp and humidifier control. I had a bunch of other questions on the IAQ device since I too found the manuals lacking and I tried to send Honeywell tech support an email 2 months ago - still no response. Hopefully there will be a expert here so others can learn about how to set this device up - it looks like a great product and will make my life of managing 2 humidifiers, 1 while house dehumidifier, an ERV, and 3 heat pumps lot easier. Good luck