Pris had something too (along with the gauge and swatch thing)...you can't "agitate" wool/natural fibre, but can acrylic. Many wools will felt. SO... 1. check weight of yarn (DK, Fingerling, lace, etc). THEN 2. Check gauge and yardage (only for amount to purchase) 3. Then when you buy the yarn, do a swatch, you may need to adjust your needles. When the swatch is right, you can begin. ALSO remember...Cotton is MUCH heavier than a wool or acrylic. So that yarn will make something VERY HEAVY (i.e. an afghan that you can barely lift, compared to wool/animal fibre or acrylic) If you are NOT a person to hand wash....make sure you check that too on the lable. Ask when/if you have more questions. Vickey-MN

Might I ask what summer top pattern you are using? DamascusAnnie is right about the swatch. That's the first thing you'll want to do. I personally knit tighter than the given gauge. If the pattern is a simple one and includes a schematic you can use your gauge to personalize the sweater with whatever yarn you would like. I just did this with a dress recently and I used Grace yarn. Sometimes the only problem with using larger needles when the yarn is of smaller gauge is that the weave in the fabric tends to be looser making the garment a little more "revealing" than one would like.

My favorite yarn to use for babies and adults is Plymouth Encore. They sell a DK version for babies as well, though I just usually use the worsted. It is an acrylic wool blend but very soft and not itchy! Machine washable. When I wear hats made with 100% acrylic (especially red heart) my head itches. Never had a problem with the plymouth though... Also another nice yarn to use is: Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece. It's a wool cotton blend and feels like silk! 80% pima cotton, 20% merino wool. You can machine wash on delicate but must be air dried otherwise the wool falls out. (so I've been told) http://brownsheep.com And they are made in the USA! I use this yarn for baby booties and hats. Here is a link that might be useful: Plymouth Encore

The adjustment for bobbin tension is located on the bobbin case. If you look at the bobbin case you will see a small, tongue-like piece of metal that is held in place by one or two teeny-weeny screws. When you put the bobbin in the bobbin case you pull the thread under that tongue before inserting the case in the race mechanism. Your machine should have the very fine screwdriver required to adjust the screw. Look to see if you have it and haul out the manual for a quick "looky-see" for advice. Bobbin tension is a routine part of working with your machine and anyone who tells you NEVER TOUCH THE BOBBIN TENSION knows very little about sewing. True, you should go racing for it, but when working with very thick materials it can be a real help to know how. It's one more arrow in your quiver of alternatives, that's all. A tip: lay down a pale pillow case and work over that. It's really easy to loosen the screw too much and have it fall out, on a large flat area with a pale background you're less likely to LOSE the screw, you guys. I learned that one the hard way, lol. When adjusting the bobbin remember that a little goes a long way! I start with a quarter turn and then do a stitch test. You have to be patient and methodical. Another good test is to put the bobbin in the case, hold onto the thread and see if the case falls away in a steady, controlled way. It shouldn't hang there (too tight) nor should it fall rapidly down (too loose). Get out those manuals and fiddle around, ladies. You really have nothing to lose by trying. There is always a mechanic to bail you out and don't be afraid to ask questions and have him/her SHOW YOU. This is what you're paying for, afterall. 1.) is the machine clean and oiled? 2.) is the proper size needle inserted properly and without burrs? 3.) is the machine threaded properly? 4.) have you checked the tension adjustments with a stitch test?