Sounds like you have planned well, always subject to abrupt change of course. I like the water solution if it works. I believe you will find your water level taking a drop as it changes from liquid to ice. Planning well was not a part of my winter endeavor. The changing ice patterns are pretty cool. Depending on the volume and velocity of water from your stream or falls or whatever way the water enters your pond, an opening in the ice should be there. If not, the water will flow over the ice. You might consider an air pump/air stone set-up for a permanent opening if you have fish and as a convenient location for adding water. Here's hoping it all works out for you. You are prepared; do look out for those ice dams. I am envious of your up-coming experiment. My problem was largely caused by too much water in streams with falls--throw in my own naivety. I made no changes prior to winter feeling confident that the pump and intakes and pressure pipes would be fine as long as everything was working. I was really surprised how much water was needed as the ice formed. When I built the pond, my goal was to create a scene symbolic of influences in my life. These included rushing water and noise along with a clear, open pool of water. I chose a high-volume external pump that puts out 7500 gallons per hour, and created two streams down a natural slope. I had my goal. I kept the water depth stabilized and watched the ice form. You are right, it is fascinating and beautiful. And plentiful as it was an unusually cold winter with temperatures in the teens and lower for days on end. Since it was the holidays I illuminated the setting with red and green floods. About then an unease started as the streams and the falls into the pond began to ice over. I had been warned of ice dams but wasn't quite sure what they were or how they formed. And anyway, the water is flowing fine. What could go wrong? I found out at 3 AM one very cold night. For some reason I looked out a window at the pond and saw our adjacent patio covered with water. Sweats and a heavy parka (our thermometer read 16) along with heavy winter boots--out I went, partner a few steps behind. I could see the ice build-up on both streams and we began chopping away. As the flooding receded I stepped back into a large puddle. Ice had formed at the bottom and I was flat on my back in a couple of inches of water! I got up and immediately looked around to see if anyone saw me--yeah, lots of people out at 3 AM! Back inside, planning on shutting the system down. At daylight with the temperature still in the teens, we shut off the pump, disconnected the unions on the big ball valves that connect the pump and pressure lines, enabling everything to drain downhill and then disconnected the unions before and after the pump--the ones that were too tight the other day, drained and removed the pump. Nothing froze except us. If any of the unions had been too tight to open, it could have been a disaster. I think that the heavy flow of a significant volume of water down streams with multiple falls, caused spray that, while not a big deal in the summer, turned to ice as the water splashed into the frigid air. A low volume of water with reduced splashing seems now to be the way to a successful winter ponding. I suspect you may have to go outdoors(!) to change the volume of flow or to clear ice from time to time. In the telling many years later, it doesn't seem such a big deal except for the many nights of getting up and looking out for fear something would happen and then the actual event and aftermath. If you pay attention to where the ice forms and control it if necessary, no doubt you will have a grand experience with no puddles on a cold winter's night. Happy ponding, let us know how it goes. Mike

I second Nancy - 8 inches is about right - but the recuperation time is I would say 6 months. AVs do not grow under T5, unless you put them 24" above I guess. The plants are damaged and it will take time for them to grow new healthy leaves. But even the itty bitty leaves are working now - so do not remove them. Your plants will kick back and bloom earlier than in 6 months - but they will look a bit strange. When the plants will grow several rows of good size leaves, you will remove the odd ones. I would say that 10-12 hours are OK, doesn't make that much difference. So far - just observe - you keep an eye on pests - just as Nancy said - and you keep an eye on plant growth - you stressed your plants - and they usually react with growing suckers - just as Nancy said - the crowns off center. But the plants are amazingly resilient, they will take time to row out of damage. Do not get rid of your T5s - one day you will be interested in growing other gesneriads - and there are some that require exactly T5s. Or you can grow your tomato seedlings next year, or Orchids. Good Luck irina

threeapples--I'll see if I can make it over to my Mom's house today and snap a pic of her powder room for you. Hers is set up like layout 1. You really do not see the toilet-part of that is that it is tucked near the wall and for the most part out of direct line of sight. The other part is her sink presentation is stunning & a show stopper when you open the door. I think a photo of a similar layout will help. Positioning the toilet the other direction will make it more difficult to get to the front of the toilet so that would be a no-go for me--see layout below of that scenario. Layout 1 is with Kallista Sink, Layout 2 is with 30" Vanity: Just a question--the layouts show that you can easily do the Kallista console sink, so why not go that route since that's the one you really want? Also, I saw you can just order the legs of the sink--if the width still bothers you, why not just order the legs & have a stone fabricator take care of the top & sink for you? As far as the other vanity goes, I like it and think it will work (but still like Kallista better). I'm not sure about the brass hardware. I'd have to get a sample of the antique brass and put it up against that stain to see how it looked. With a hammered silver sink (which I think would be stunning), I'd really have to think long & hard about the brass... I've also posted a layout of the 30" vanity for you to see the difference (or lack thereof--you're only talking 3" savings on each side)).

So boss was adamant about the centering of the sink, so now I am thinking maybe we can board up the window on the side, and put a fridge there, this actually save me few grand too, since I dun have to redo the piping and such, and we have a window next to it since we are opening up the wall. Now I am down to two different design: Option 1 - Fridge closer to sink, but require a tall cabinet. Option 2 - Fridge further away, it look more natural. but longer walk to the sink (~11ft) @mama goose_gw zn6OH, benjesbride, do you think this is acceptable? Thx!