Vix - don't get my husband started on that clawfoot! He rues the expense and the installation hassles. But it sure is pretty... Paral - We have clear EVA liners around the whole perimeter. Not ideal, looks-wise, but the best solution in terms of water containment. Thanks, Marisany - After 4 months, we're still not living in the master suite, so this gorgeous bathroom is going largely unused. You should see the one I shower in every day - if you scroll down in the link below, you can see images of the before and only slightly better after. Ugh! I'm looking forward to those many happy hours... Here is a link that might be useful: My wretched other bathroom (and house)...

We used two of the lights - one over each sink. We did another bathroom in that house (we've since moved) - that bathroom was 5'x8', and we used one of the Artemide lights. It was plenty bright enough in there! We had the lights on a dimmer, which was really nice. Yes, our contractor built out a soffit above the medicine cabinets. It wasn't my first choice for how to do it, but it ended up looking really good. I wanted to recess the cabinets, but the Ikea ones are not made to do that, and the finish details were too complicated to make it work. So we decided on the soffit, which was much simpler. I wouldn't hesitate to do it the same way again.

Thanks folks! I really appreciate it. I've emailed the glass company to see if its too late in the fabrication to accomodate for not using the strike seal. If they've already made it, all is not lost. Since our door and fixed panel meet at an angle, we can probably simply mount the whole thing slightly inside the center of the curb, which would allow us to tighten any gap they've left for the seal... We;ll see I guess! Frankly I prefer the look of just the clean glass edge, so I hope this can happen. It's a small bath, and that edge is very "in your face", and noticeable, and a big part of the overall design of the bathroom....

Silicone is very waterproof but it doesn't adhere well to surfaces especially if they are porous or not completely clean and free of contaminants. It also should not be in contact with water too long so, water must drain away from the joint. Silicone also does not seal well when applied thin to a surface. The joint should be between 1/8" and 1/4 inch wide and of the same depth with a backer rod or something to form a concave shape to the back side or at least prevent it from filling the joint to deeply. The front side should also be concave. This hour-glass shape ensures that the sealant will stretch before the adhesion to the surfaces fails. But since the sealant failed immediately I would assume the surfaces were not cleaned properly. Old sealant is the worst contaminant and the most difficult to get rid of. Silicone is used for joints with a lot of movement between dissimilar materials like at exterior aluminum windows. If this joint will not move much you might consider a polyurethane sealant which is less flexible but more resistant to water contact and adheres to surfaces far better. It is preferred over silicone in marine applications.