No. One thousand ($3500) gallon oil tank is
more than enough. The problem is that one
line feeding off the tank to both boilers
will be a problem as one boiler will starve
the other.
You will have to install a larger line or a second
line to elliminate fuel starvation.

Let me try again. The 1000gal tank is in place and being used for heat in the shop/barn and for fueling the tractors. I will not be tapping an existing line. I want to run a new line(s) from the tank to a new house. I have 2-2" conduits between the tank pad and the new house so I have a lot of flexibility in what I run between them.
The issue is that the oil company is telling me that regardless of tubing size or if I use single or 2 pipe system that the distance, 200', is too great for the burner pump to pull the oil and I must install a new tank nearer to the house. I asked about 2-pipe systems and they told me no one does that any more. I was looking for confirmation that this is correct.

I have been considering a booster pump at the tank. I can pull a low voltage control circuit from the house that will trigger a relay (power from the barn) that will turn the pad pump on whenever the burner fires. This may be too much a hack to be reliable. I am looking comments on this idea or other options.

Thanks.

Look up Tiger Loops on Google.

Wrong thought.

Is the tank above ground or buried? Does the fuel flow from the tank to the point of use by gravity? A pump set up with two line system will pump from greater depths/distances. A booster pump can be used near the tank. Your two systems combined probably use no more than 3 gallons per hour.

Thanks or the comments. The tank is above ground. The point of use is at about the same elevation as the tank pad. The conduit between the tank pad and the house is buried about 3' deep. Once e the line(s) enter the house they go up 8', over a doorway and then down to the burner.

That's where your problem will be. The typical pump will pull up to 2 feet. A tiger loop can pull to the second story, but I don't know if that's your ideal solution.

Thanks - it sounds as if figuring a way to go straight (level run) to the burner, not over the door would make the problem easer.

Lots of installations in this area lift 4' to 6' with no problem. Two stage pump with two lines. Based on your description, I see no problem, even with a one-stage-one-line setup. The buried line is not truly a lift, since the line is gravity fed (flooded intake). The pump will only move the oil through the line.

Here is another thought. Are you going to burn heating oil
in your tractors ( not legal in most places ) as well as the furnace ? or diesle oil in your tractors and in your
furnace ? another bad idea.

heating oil and diesel is the same thing it's no. 2 distilate oil. period.

NO.2 DIESEL FUEL= HEATING OIL= NO.2 DISTILATE FUEL= NO.2 FUEL OIL.

berlin is correct. One of my Diesel farm tractors is 1977 model, bought new, and the #2 heating oil is the only fuel ever used in it. Here the off-road use is perfectly legal. The fuel/heating oil is dyed red, taxed fuel is not dyed.

Don't get caught in PA using fuel oil in the truck. But, as stated, #2 and diesel are the same.

as bus driver said the only difference is dyed (for non-taxed use) and in very limited cases sulfur content will vary, neither of which will make any difference for the applications the fuel will be used.

Well that didn't take long. I was wondering how long it would take for someone to say heating oil and diesel are the same. THEY ARE NOT, PERIOD. They come from the same source but do not end up the same. #2 heating oil and diesel come close but #1 and diesel no way. We haven't had
# 2 heating oil up here in 50 years. Even #2 diesel in summer and winter are not the same. Don't argue with me you will never win. If they are the same why is the price different ? If they are the same why is the invoice number
different ? If they are the same why is the tax price
different ? If they are the same why is the color different ? If they are the same why is the sulpher content
different ? If they are the same why is the viscosity different ? If they are the same why is it that the two oils are in different tank chambers of the same truck ?
Actually i'm wrong. I forgot i'm talking to the U.S.
You guys haven't a clue what a cold winter is and are being
ripped off by being sold diesel oil instead of heating oil. You probably are getting diesel oil and paying for heating oil. I'm very sorry about my remarks but you guys have actually never seen #1 heating oil. It is a thin as Varsol and the color of beer. I know you have never seen #1 heating oil because if you put that stuff in a diesel truck or tractor you can smell the exhause 5 miles away on a cold day and the temp. gauge in the vehicle will go right over to hot. Again sorry for my comments. Up here # 2
heating oil,( which is no longer avalable )#1 heating oil,
summer diesel and winter diesel are very different.

Isn't #1 heating fuel called Kerosene in the US? That's what mobile homes use here.

kalining, they are. period. i don't know what part of canada you're in but no. 2 distilate IS what is known commonly as "fuel oil" or "heating oil" yes, even in canada. yes, there is no. 1 distilate which is kero or #1 heating oil as is jp6 or jet a with subtle additive differences that don't matter except in their applications as jet fuel. often #1 and #2 were mixed for outside tanks, now antigel is mostly done w/ additives. Almost all heating oil is now either low sulfur or ULSD simply because the refineries are making one product, in some cases it's not, but in the applications the OP mentioned it WILL NOT matter, as home furnaces and tractors don't have egr or catylists (like newer diesel vehicles do). red dye is added to identify non-taxed fuel. your statements about using #1 diesel in tractors or other diesel engines leads me to believe you really really don't know what you're talking about, and i don't like to say that, but it is becoming apparant that is the case. dammit kalining, i'm not trying to pick a fight, just don't make statements that arn't close to accurate.

Two different local oil dealers, fuel oil, gasoline, are relatives of my family. Off-road Diesel (no highway use tax) and #2 heating oil that they deliver is precisely the same product. Rarely are the Winters here severe enough for problems with #2 for Diesels. K-1 will run fine in a Diesel, but cots more and has less BTU per gallon.

About the pump again, the pump lifts the oil (measured lift height) only from the top level of the oil in the tank at a given moment. Even if the line was buried 100 feet deep and then rises back to near pump level, this is the way it is. Pumps typically push far better than they pull. 4 to 6 feet is not bad, gravity feed to the pump (flooded intake) is best. Line length does matter, but the GPH flow is very low and line length is not crucial.

The 200 feet is not the problem. At even say a few GPH of oil flow, the pressure drop in the 200 feet is miniscule. Since the point of use is below the lowest level of oil in the tank, the single stage pump should work.
The only problem I see is the initial priming of the pump since the 8 foot lift has to be negotiated. Once done, the 8 feet does NOT affect the flow since it forms a "loop" , so then the differential height between the oil tiop and the point of use actually "helps" the pumping.

Thank you all very much for taking the time to comment on my problem. Based on your input we are going to hook it next week and see if it works. We been thinking about how to prime the line.

The fuel oil in tractors digression was also interesting. I've been running fuel oil in my diesel equipment for 40 years.

You can prime the line easily with compressed air. About 1 (one) pound of pressure, or less.

Well, Berlin. I'll concede this one. Your info is accurate
and informative. I do know what i'm talking about or they
would pull my oil burner licence. Number 1 oil's carbon
chain is 9/16 and number 2's carbon chain is 10/20. #3,#4,#5,#6 oil carbon chains get larger up the line so i figured all the oils are different. I could be wrong. I'm
sure we will talk again. You have some good info and your
pretty thorough. I've learned some stuff from you. Have a
good weekend.

The fuel oil in tractors digression was also interesting. I've been running fuel oil in my diesel equipment for 40 years.

After 2010, all #2 will have to be low sulfur. The issue isn't whether it will work in a diesel, the issue is taxes. Don't get caught in PA with even the slightest bit of pink in your fuel.

kalining, maybe you're not to up on oil but when it comes to Molson,,,YOU DA MAN!!! We come to you with all we want to know about that other magical warming fluid. :-)

About priming the line and the 8 foot lift, assuming that the burner pump is at the exact same level as the bottom of the oil tank AND that the tank is full AND that the tank has an oil depth of 4 feet, then gravity flow will fill the line to the 4 foot level. That is half of the 8 feet. Auxiliary priming would not be necessary, but careful venting of the pump while priming is a necessity. If the actual numbers are different, then the conclusions could be different.

I forgot to mention that I would install a shutoff at the tank and immediately downstream from that install a large size filter.

I'm also up on putting acetylene gas ( not putting ) in a
B.B.Q. Not a very good idea but i tried it anyway. After
going over to my neighbors to retreive my steak and my B.B.Q. lid it took 2 days for my ears to stop ringing. Now
if you want to know how to make beer and cheddar cheese
soup i'm your man.