Update: Before the install, I did wind up modifying the track in the air handler for the 1-inch air filter. I used 2 pieces of steel banding, 2 inches wide, cut to length, and placed them over the manufacturer's track using a few dabs of automobile body putty (Bondo) to keep it secure. It is now a smooth track for the filter to slide on. Goodman used the track as part of the frame of the air handler so it had some crimpings in it and the filter would not easily slide in. I also trimmed away some foil faced insulation that prevented the filter from seating properly. A 20"x24" filter now fits perfectly. I am glad that I did these minor mods as I would have been fighting this monthly when I change filters. The unit was installed Friday, 6/22, after I had it for about 5 weeks waiting on the installers. It took two guys 8 hours. I fed them both breakfast and lunch (I treat my installers well). The old supply air plenum and the plenum after the air handler had to be replaced to match the new unit. The old 5/16" liquid line had to be replaced with a new 3/8" line. 3 holes were cut into the finished ceiling and 1 in the wall so that the new line could be run. I'll repair the holes when I get a chance - no big deal. The TXV sticks out about 8 inches from the air handler. Looks funky and I have to be careful not to hit it while moving things around in that area. The old outside unit had sunk about 4 inches into the ground. I filled the hole with soil that I was saving, packed it down, put a plastic condensor mounting pad on the dirt, and used 3" thick brick to elevate the outside unit (which is huge in size compared to the old 7 SEER unit; 14 SEER = more coils = larger unit). The outside unit is much more quiet as expected but the new mult-speed air handler is also a little more quiet than the old one. The fan is set on low speed and I'm not sure of the setting of the old unit as the lables on the motor had worn away after 21 years. The sheet metal in the new air handler is flimsy and the track for the air filter can be improved by Mr Goodman. The outside unit looks decent. These comments were also noted by the installers. I plan on taking the outside and inside coils to a local scrap facility and sell the copper. Maybe I can get a few $$ for a couple cases cases of my favorite beer. I can now start saving 40% on the cooling and heating part of my energy bill and use this to combat the 65% increase in electric rates in the State of Maryland. All in all, I thought that I got a good value for the money spent (only time will tell if I made the right choice with Goodman). I got a 14 SEER system with Copeland scroll compressor, thermo-expansion valve on the air handler, hard start capacitor, 15 kw heat strip kit, bypass humidifier, and 10 year parts warranty for $2477 from a local HVAC supply shop. I paid $1200 for a pro install (needed the pro install for the warranty). Total cost was $2k less than...

Are you referencing new ducts, programmable thermostat, high voltage wiring, equipment, and inspections? If so, $9,500.00 for the job is not to high. The variable speed may be $2,300.00 per ton. I am assuming you are speaking of the air handler as being variable speed. To answer your other question, for all practical purposes, you may never recoup the additional expenses. The energy savings in terms of dollars and cents are not worth the increase cost, normally. The cost to repair a variable speed blower is much higher than a multi-speed air handler. FYI, a per ton price is never a good conversation point for a change-out. At $1900, two tons equals $3800.00 Three tons equals $5,700.00. The difference is $1,900.00. But the equipment cost could be as little as $400.00 different. And, the labor is the same. Per ton price cause some contractors to oversize just to be able to charge more. We replaced a 5-ton unit in New Orleans for a 3.5 ton unit. The 3.5 ton unit will do a better job with the humidity. In Durham, NC, our customer asked us to replace his 3.5 ton A/C unit and furnace for a 2.5 ton A/C because of the humidity problem that he wanted to solve.

"Bad" power factor does NOT increase the REAL actual power consumed, "REAL" or actual power is measured in kW, that's all you use and that's what you're charged for. If device(CFL) uses 80% of the power going into it, the power factor is 80%. Power factor is the Real Power divided by the Apparent Power. For example, 98 kW (Real Power) ÷ 100 kVA (Apparent Power) = 98%. Again, residential customers are charged only for the REAL Power actually used, not the Apparent Power sent, That's not our problem, it is for the utility, believe me if it was a significant amount we would be billed a fee for power factor. Factories are billed for power factor,power factor does require the utility to compensate a little bit, it's at a far, far lower level than would be the case if they had to make up the total difference between the actual power factor and a power factor of 1.We can and do ignore the power factor issues in residential, there would be no way to diagnose anything if no rules applied or reality unable to be qualified. To prove this point, I set up an experiment with CFLs vs. incandescent lights (resistive loads with a power factor of 1.0), and measured watts and volt-amperes delivered by my inverter. Then I measured the amps from my power source, a bank of L-16 batteries, which are DC sources wise to the tricks of reactive power....The low power factor did not require the batteries (or the utility) to produce any extra energy.

Would like to see some mdl numbers both condenser and air handler. Goodman 13 SEER HPs are low end. there are three equally important components-quality HVAC, the install by dealer, and probably the most overlooked and disregarded is the ductwork system. these are my minimum specs for a new HP system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant line set you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. I would only use authorized dealers for the various brands that provide quotes. see mfg websites. I would look at Trane/AmStd,Rheem/Rudd,Carrier/Bryant. Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new HP system that did not have electronic demand defrost. IMO