There are several options. Schluter makes transition trims for tile to another surface... Reno-U or Reno-V might work.

I like to use a combination of a Schluter Schiene or Jolly and then take a thin hardwood reducer and butt the fat part to the metal, sloping down onto the wood.

You would need to leave an expansion gap between the wood and tile/trim and fill that later with a color matched grout caulk. I have some photos of different ways to approach this tile to wood issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tile to wood transitions

Are you certain your floor is stiff enough for ceramic tile? 1/2" probably won't be enough. If there is any bounce in the floor, your tile will crack.

I thought I had already posted this message, but it did not show up. Anyways, here is the message again.

Jerry T.,
Thanks for the info. I will look up the link and info you posted.

Aliceinwonderland,
In addition to the 1/2" concrete board floor that I am adding under the ceramic, I also have 3/4" wood floor. So the total would be 1 1/4" sub floor, which should be enough. I totally agree with you that 1/2" would not cut it.

Thanks,
Samer.

Don't use a 1/2" thick cement backer board for this. Use either a 1/4" or 5/16" CBU on floors (depends on the tile) ... then you should be flush with the hardwood.
Here is a link to Schluter edge trims.

Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter edge trims for tile

Jerry T.,
I was going to use 1/4 Hardi Backer, but Lowes associate recomended that I have at least a total of 1 1/4 sub floor under the ceramic tile. Using the 1/4" Hardi Backer would leave me with a 1" sub floor. Do you think this would be enough?

Samer.

OK,
After doing quite a bit of research, I have another confusion point. This is a new house installation. Before the framer put the roof, it rained like a sun of a gun, and the 3/4" OSB got soaked. Now the whole thing is really dry, but I am not too certain about how even and flat the floor is. Having said that, should I go ahead with the Hardi Backer manufacturer recommendations and use 1/4" Hardi Backer board, or should I use the 1/2" board? Also, should I consider the option of adding a ply wood subfloor ontop of the OSB? This is our dream house, and I want to make sure I do the job right so that it will last.

Thanks,
Samer.

You are doing the right thing by asking. Hardibacker is not like plywood, it offers nothing for structural support or rigidity, no matter how thick it is. On the other hand, plywood does provide this.

I prefer to add 3/8" or 1/2" BCX plywood over OSB... then use either 1/4" Hardibacker or Ditra for the tile backer. Either one has to be set in a wet-bed of thinset.

- Do you have AdvanTech or regular OSB?
- What is underneath the subfloor for joisting and what centers are they on?
- How far is the clear unsupported span?

Jerry T,.
Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and to advice me.

- I believe I have regular 3/4" OSB for sub floor.
- The OSB is sitting on 2x10" solid wood studs.
- They are 16" center to center.

Is the BCX plywood any different from OSB?

By the way, when I was chatting with my builder about this, he recommended that I use 3/4" plywood on top of the 3/4" OSB, and he adviced not to use the Hardi Backer board. Deep inside me, I would feel more comfortable using the Hardi Backer.

Thanks again.

Samer.

More plywood is always better, but you need both a plywood underlayment "and" a CBU for the tile to "bond" to.

We'll assume the OSB is a T&G and the joists are not over-spanned.

I would refasten the OSB and make sure it is all pretty flat, then install either a 3/8 or 1/2 BC grade plywood underlayment over top. Run the underlayment the same direction as the subfloor, but keep all seams offset by at least a foot or more. Leave an 1/8" gap all 4 sides and screw it down every 6-8" sides and field. Don't worry about hitting any floor joist when installing underlayment. And do not use any glue for this when tile is the finished floor.

Then put down a wet-bed of thinset and install the 1/4" Hardibacker. Leave an 1/8" gap here too and, again, do not try to hit any joist. Space the screws like the directions tell you. After it is down you must tape over the seams with CBU tape.

Instead of a CBU you can use Ditra to keep the height down.

I forgot to mention that you can run the cement backer board any direction you want... just keep the all seams offset from the underlayment below, and stagger each piece of backer board so the butt joints don't all line up.

Jerry T.,
Thank you so much for the advice. This sounds like it will be the right way to do it. By the way, I did some calculations, and I find a way to make the hardwood side even with the ceramic side, which is something I prefer to have.

Samer.