you can use different underlayments that may muffle the hollow echo standard floating floor systems with foam underlayments have. Cork Underlayment may give a slghtly more solid sound, but they are a higher cost than the foams. The best in my opinion is the fiber Floor Muffler Underlayment, which may give a significant improvement to the hollow echo, but its also way up there in terms of cost. Other benefits include: Reduces both reflective sound noise and through the floor sound transmission Designed to provide a sound similar to that of traditional wood floors Suitable for use over both concrete and wood subfloors Exceeds recommended moisture permeability ratings for installation over concrete slabs Optimal thickness for both comfort and stability Helps to eliminate subfloor imperfections Mold and mildew resistant as well as non allergenic Adds R Value to help insulate floors Strong enough for the most demanding commercial installations No floating floor underlayment will give you the solid sound and feel of a nailed or glued hardwood system, but on varying levels somewhere in between.

There's a lot of good information in the healthyheating post, but unfortunately, some misleading/inaccurate info as well. The good - building a really efficient house is definitely the way to go. The better insulated and air sealed, the more stable the temperatures, and the less it will matter what type of heating system you use. As the poster noted: "Its not just about the flooring its about the system the building (affects heating load what you pay the utilities) the flooring affects resistance) the tube spacing (affects fluid temperature affects efficiency) .theyre all joined at the hip" I'm not sure what the comments about VOCs have to do with heating systems. I might be missing the author's point, but the implication I get from reading the posting is that somehow radiant heating helps reduce the VOCs in your home. I know that's not the poster's point, but the way it's mixed in with talk about radiant, it's quite misleading. To clarify, VOC levels are a function of materials used in the house and the fresh air ventilation rates. As for radiant heating efficiency. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the efficiency of radiant systems. The industry claim is that you can set your thermostats lower because the heat radiates up from the floor, resulting in greater psychological and physiological warmth. In actual practice, the studies have had conflicting results. While it is true that in a low-temperature radiant installation, you can operate water heating equipment at more efficient temperatures, it's not true that it's a slam-dunk savings in all situations. This is particularly true in basement radiant slab installations where a fraction of your heat is going downward to heat the earth or out the edge of the slab. This can easily result in a 10-30% efficiency penalty, or more depending on the installation. The comments about the emissivity of the floor material is a red herring. While the follow-up comment about the R-value of the floor material is valid. What matters is the ability of the system to transfer heat into the living space. Tubes in concrete, exposed, is most capable. Tubes hanging in the joist bay, under the wood floor under a carpet is a worst case scenario. It is simply not true that the floor material does not make a difference! Consider this - if you have a concrete floor and a carpet, both at 70F, which one will "feel" colder when you stand on it in bare feet? The feeling of "cold" that your feet pick up is due to the heat being more effectively transferred from your feet to the concrete floor than to the carpet. The thermal conductivity of the concrete is much higher than the carpet. The floor material makes a profound difference to the actual functioning of a radiant floor heating system. Also be aware of the flywheel effect. Large, heavy masses take a while to speed up and slow down. The same with thermal masses, like concrete slabs. They have a capacity of holding lots of energy. Because of this, they take a lot of energy to bring up to temperature. With a forced air heating system or conventional baseboard heaters, you can set the temperature back at night or when you leave for the day, saving considerable energy. With a high mass radiant system, it takes a lot more heating energy to get the slab up to temperature, so it is slower to respond. This applies to the time it takes to cool down also. Quoting from the EERE website: "Thick concrete slab systems have high heat capacity and are ideal for storing heat from solar energy systems, which have a fluctuating heat output. The downside of the thick slabs is their slow thermal response time, which makes strategies such as night or daytime setbacks difficult if not impossible. Most experts recommend maintaining a constant temperature in homes with these heating systems." This is particularly problematic in the spring and fall, when it may be in the 40's at night but sunny and in the 60's during the day. Ask people with radiant systems about their comfort in these situations and you'll find a fair number who are dissatisfied with the comfort. This is a good reason to keep a forced air system for heating as well as the radiant. Use the forced air for primary heating during mild weather and radiant when it's colder. The healthyheating describes this on their website under "myths". Unfortunately, the way it's discussed is highly misleading. Radiant heating systems do NOT act like heat lamps. Heat lamps operate at very high temperatures and have essentially zero heatup time. Heat lamps do work by radiant heating. In floor systems do not. They operate at very low temperatures and can take considerable time to warm up and cool down. Depending on the design, this can be many hours. Quoting from the EERE website: "Despite their name, radiant floor heating systems also depend heavily on convection, the natural circulation of heat within a room, caused by heat rising from the floor. Radiant floor heating systems are significantly different than the radiant panels used in walls and ceilings." I don't want to seem negative on in-floor heating systems. I like them and use them in my own tiled bathroom floors. But you need to know that it is not "child's play", even for a competent installer, due to complicating factors.

True. There will be heat lost to the ground. Nonetheless, do not conclude there is no point at all in having a layer of insulation: any break is better than no break at all. Think of wearing one layer of light clothing as protection against the cold: better than bare skin. Any small R (e.g. R2, R3) still directs more heat upwards than not. To place radiant heat directly on the slab means more and more heat is lost as floor temperature rises, not just 50% but a far greater fraction. "thin" , "not very" , "useful" -- terms undefined. A separation layer is better than none. Not to overthink this, just to drum it in. "Something" is more than nothing, and this is the significant point, not whether the R factor appears low or high. Once your floor temperature rises, you want to prevent sending most of it into the ground, which is what happens when there is no insulation / isolation / separation at all. Note that the definition of R rating testing does not allow one to distinguish between heat transfer occurring by conduction or by radiation. In many circumstances this is not critical. If you want to get into this level of detail, it will take a few dense paragraphs. Suffice to say that R ratings will be misleading and inaccurate for this application so do not rely on the apparent differences between R numbers. They are all small and that is OK. They are almost meaningless in this situation of a slab-floor separator with a thickness of from 2 to 16 mm. It is obvious that with electric cables you have more room for a thicker insulation layer. HTH -david

we had wilsonart red oak installed 14 years ago when our 1 year old linoleaum got weird yellow spots(was covered under warranty) it is in the kitchen and runs into the back hall. i still looks as good as new and we are hard on our kitchen floors (dogs,kids,water,etc) i would like to run it ecerywhere! it has worn so much better than the hard wood in our dining room. i cant imagine water will be an issue for laminate short of a flood.