WmWalker's correct that the solvents in Millie"s and Waterlox are different but the statement about Waterlox not being a polymerized oil is misleading. Tung oil, when it dries, bonds to itself - it polymerizes. Polymerization of a drying oil like tung oil before application is basically speeding up the drying process so that more of the solids will sit on the top of the wood (instead of soaking in) to form a thicker protective surface and shorten drying time. Waterlox says that their product includes "resin" but synthetic resins can be made by polymerization - so both products contain oil that will penetrate and dry as well as thicker substances that won't soak in as well and will provide more of a surface finish, as well as hardening more quickly. There's no reason to believe that Millie's polymerized oil is any more durable than what's in Waterlox. It may be, but you'd only know that by testing it. The "toxic ingredients" in Waterlox is mineral spirits that evaporate out of the finish when it's dry. Citrus solvent also evaporates and is irritating to the eyes, lungs, and skin and should - like products containing mineral spirits - be applied with good ventilation until dry. Citrus solvent is in the same family of chemicals as turpentine, and mineral spirits were developed as a substitute for the more toxic turpentine. Millie's may be a great product but the text describing why they're better than other tung oil products is irritatingly misleading. I don't have any financial interest in any of them and I've used pure tung oil with citrus solvent for wood used in food prep and pure tung oil and then Waterlox for table tops. I prefer the smell of the citrus solvent but I don't get any of them near flames or use them without good ventilation.

Beg to differ. My mom's waxed barn board table has regularly rebuffed hot pots, boiling water, even fallen candles. Why? The damaging element melts a couple layers of WAX, not a volatile finish. Know the phrase "That'll buff right out"? Uh, actually true, in this case. Poly (I don't want it in my house), waterlox etc, no. You could theoretically spot sand, TRY to match (if the whole table didn't scorch or make a white spot, or shrivel) but good luck matching the depth, the stain, the level, and not raising the grain. (And I have, in the past, refinished furniture with poly. I'm making up for past sins.) You'd really have to be a professional. Anyone can do wax. And it feels good and looks really lustrous. Now, as to will wax encapsulate lead paint, I can't give you an answer on that, because I don't think anyone has done the science. Your state or county health department's lead abatement program might have answers, but they will undoubtedly take the most conservative course, which will be, "are you crazy? You can buy a nice plastic kids table at walmart for 99 cents! why would you do that?". The lead issue is not one to be attacked from a single object in a home. You need to look at the whole picture. Say the word lead and everyone freaks out. That makes it very hard to get real answers. The safest course? This may not be the best use for those particular boards. But someone else might do it, let their kids use it for 10 years and have no detectable lead levels, if the boards and the rest of the house are clean. (Lead is not considered to pose the same kind of health hazard for adults, so making a table for adults might be better.) Sorry, no easy answers. Do your own research and make your own decision.

laurielou, Are you wanting the mineral mostly for the matte/non-shiney/natural wood look, or so you can cut on it? I'm thinking you said in another post it would mostly be for the look. I don't know if this helps, but I thought I'd share my experience... I thought that I definitely wanted the matte/natural look that mineral would give, but now that I have the more shiney waterlox finish I'm surprised at how much I like it and don't mind the shine. It a very soft shine anyways since I used a mix of satin and original on the final coat. I love the counter top so much and it is in the center of the kitchen, so I would hate for a water ring to get on it. I would see it everytime I walked into the kitchen. Not 100% sure about this but from what I've read, water rings and stains are inevitable. It might be possible to sand them out, but no guarantee. That would drive me crazy! It makes my life easier to not have to worry about that, especially with three kids! Just thought I'd share some of my experience because I've been where you are and know how difficult it is to decide! I'm sure your cherry top will be beautiful regarless! Jill

You need to get a sample of both finish products and try it. I had a really bad experience trying to put Waterlox over ikea's tung oil.