We recently finished renovating our master bath. Now we are working on master bedroom. We painted the walls a soft grey. We are installing white wide shutters. We are looking at engineered wood 8" wide planks in a light wood color or a grayish color (light). Are wide planks the "it" thing now vs thin wood? Trying to decide if we should go with a grey wood floor or light wood color? The top photo is a sample we are considering.The second photo below is from our bedroom entering into our master bath. there are two sample floor pieces we are considering that are in the grey family. The flooring in the bedroom (porcelain tile) will be torn up- contractor installed the incorrect color- it was supposed to match the bathroom. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. we need to decide by this Wednesday.

What would be helpful is to see pictures of the windows with and without the curtains.

https://lpcorp.com/resources/product-literature/installation-instructions/lp-topnotch-installation-instructions-english Recommended Glue-Nail Application • Use of the APA Glued Floor System is highly recommended. It ensures greater floor stiffness and helps reduce nail popping and floor noise. • Snap a chalk line across length of floor 4´ in from rim band for panel edge alignment and as a boundary for spreading glue. • Use only adhesives conforming with Performance Specification AFG-01 developed by APA with the Glue Floor System. • Wipe any mud, dirt or water from joists before gluing. • Spread only enough glue to lay one or two panels at a time, or follow specific recommendations of the glue manufacturer. • Apply a continuous line of glue, about 1/4˝ diameter, to framing members. Apply glue in a serpentine pattern on wide areas. • Apply two lines of glue on joists where panel ends butt to ensure proper gluing of each end. Excessive use of glue may interfere with drain notches. • Spread glue in groove of one or two panels at a time before laying. Apply a continuous line of glue but avoid squeeze-out by applying a thinner line (1/8˝) than on joists. Lay first panel with tongue side to rim band and align edge with snapped chalk line. Initially nail into place to prevent movement. • Stagger end joints in each succeeding row. A 1/8˝ space between all end joints is recommended. Use a spacer tool to assure accurate and consistent spacing. • On each successive row, slide panels into place. If necessary, tap panels into place using a block to protect groove edges. Do not force panels together or overdrive; the tongue and groove profile is self-spacing, allowing for 1/16˝ gap along the panel edges. The tip of the tongue should touch the back of the groove, but not be overdriven. • Complete all nailing of each panel before glue sets (See Fastening Schedule). Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for allowable time. Keep in mind that warm weather accelerates glue setting. • Fasteners should penetrate into framing members at least 1˝. Use 6d ring- or screw-shank nails for panels 3/4˝ thick or less and 8d ring- or screw-shank nails for thicker panels. • Fasten panels 3/8˝ from panel edges; space nails according to Fastening Schedule. Closer nail spacing may be required by some codes or for diaphragm construction. Finished deck may be walked on and will carry construction loads without damage to glue bond.

if the parquet is in good shape, you can absolutely have it refinished. I like them. as for matching it, yes, you can buy more parquet oak tiles in the same species. It's a beautiful floor when refinished correctly. some are called 5 finger block oak parquet. this shows the thinner plank style butting up to it. (prob 2 1/4" or so) You can easily buy this other flooring and do it. if you do solid, it's stain on site along w/the parquet. (the parquet flooring has to be sanded w/an orbital sander, not a regular forward and back one. So make sure a good pro is hired to do it) look at how cool it looks in a dark walnut shade w/inlaid regular strips. great for any damaged parts what you could also do for the parts is a herringbone. (either solid or an engineered) Emily Hendersen talks about redoing her space w/this oak https://stylebyemilyhenderson.com/blog/story-herringbone-flooring If I had the choice, i'd do the herringbone. it's beautiful and completely mcm appropriate This is a natural finish white oak. and love the idea in the bathroom to feather in ceramic tiles in the same herringbone in the kitchen you could do something like this w/some cool cement tiles around the perimeter: walnut stain color. 5 finger block parquet matches the finger oak herringbone, below: you could even do the finger oak herringbone to match your parquet (the planks are shorter) longer sizes. you could also do a herringbone surrounded by the regular planks.