I wish I would have timed how long it took me to read every single one of these posts. My beloved cats are destroying my house. I'm single, working, commuting, and losing my mind trying to clean it and get them to stop. I think that a fair number of these posts are written by SHILLS, which I find despicable. People like me are going through hell. Not only is there a mess, it's a smelly, toxic mess, and it's caused by my children. Yes, they are my children, and I can't just get rid of them. I, too, want to chime in and say that Nature's Miracle does NOT work. I'm fine with ripping up the carpet and starting over, but even that is going to be so incredibly difficult and time consuming. After reading all of this, and not having very nice carpet, I've decided to rip up my carpet, but I wish all of you cat lovers the best of luck in trying to eradicate the stains if you do want to keep your carpet. There isn't much on this thread about preventative measures to stop cats from doing this in the first place, but I encourage everyone to visit some reputable sites to deal with that as well. I've listed some below. Please don't ever think your cat is angry or vindictive or something like that. Cats don't have those types of emotions. Educate yourself and respond appropriately, but be careful of opinions in forums. Look to the experts for advice. I so very much appreciate the time people took to offer solutions. Thank you. I also want to recommend a money saving litterbox filler that will encourage you to keep up with cleaning it, as well as keep the smell at bay. My cats' issues have to do with new cats in the home, age and illness - not the use of this litter. I use plain wood pellets (no scent!), bought at Menard's or Fleet Farm type places. They're sold as woodstove fuel, as well as pet bedding. Way more economical that commercial litter and, I think, abate the smell much better. http://www.naturalcatcareblog.com/2011/06/cat-going-outside-the-litter-box-super-smart-behaviorists-share-their-tips/ http://catinfo.org/?link=litterbox http://www.littlebigcat.com/?s=litter+box One of the many posts on the brilliant Dr. Becker's site: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/08/29/cat-litter-box-aversion.aspx http://www.naturalcatcareblog.com/2011/02/9-useful-sites-for-researching-cat-health-issues/

Seen too many properties with this problem and itâÂÂs nasty. Every cat owner will swear their home doesnâÂÂt smell but I have never been in a home that I couldnâÂÂt tell had a cat. IâÂÂve been in hundreds where it was noticeable but the owners still believe itâÂÂs not a problem. Cat urine is far more concentrated then dog and human urine. A cats kidneys are so efficient at extracting absorbable water that the high concentration makes the urine extremely foul. With that high concentration, the real problematic component of cat urine is uric acid. This concentrated acid causes that nasty odor and makes stains hard to remove. Uric acid contains non-soluble salt crystals which bond like crazy glue to any surface. These crystals bond to wood, drywall, grout, ceramics, marble and even concrete. Even when the crystals are dry, the problem remains. Any moisture will reactivate the crystals releasing the smell all over again. Usually the smell gets worse since the crystals concentrate after drying. Humid summer days will reactivate the problem years after the cats are gone. The only way to resolve the problem totally is to get rid of the carpet and pad. If wood subflooring needs replacing due to the urine damaging the integrity of the plywood, replace those areas. The rest of the subflooring needs to be thoroughly cleaned, dried and sealed with Binz. YouâÂÂre not cleaning the subfloor to get rid of the cat urine but to make sure you have a clean, dry surface for the Binz to adhere to. The Binz shellac primer will seal down to a .005 microns which is critical. Kilz only seals down to .015 microns so I recommend Binz to fix it the first time. Any walls or trim that are suspect to the urine also needs to be sealed with Binz and repainted. Even concrete needs to be cleaned and sealed but I recommend using and epoxy on the concrete if itâÂÂs going to be left exposed. The biggest lesson I learned is if a cat is urinating frequently in a few areas of the home, itâÂÂs likely a problem throughout. I purchase properties for investments and if IâÂÂm looking at a property with cat issues, I figure replacing the carpet and pad in all rooms, cleaning and sealing all the floors, sealing half way up the walls, repainting entirely, sealing (sometimes replacing grout and/or ceramics) and even having the duct systems cleaned as this odor permeates all areas and cats will even urinate into the floor vents. The last property I purchased like this had the price reduced $35,000.00. I cost me $40,000.00 when I was done so I should have reduced the price $55,000.00 as my intent is to be profitable and this is a horrible problem.

I know this is old, but I have to point something out, in case someone else reads this old thread. The fact that a flooring can be installed in a bathroom does NOT mean that it is okay for there to be any standing water on it for any length of time (let alone urine standing on it.) We just installed engineered hardwood. It can be installed in the basement where there may be moisture issues, and the manufacturer says that it can be installed in bathrooms which see moderate moisture from showers and baths. It should NOT be installed in children's bathrooms, which have a lot more splashing than (most) adult bathrooms. The engineered wood is actually BETTER than hardwood when it comes to moisture, by the way. But neither of them do well with standing water or urine. Both floors can be ruined (or at least require serious refinishing. It's not just a matter of the joint in engineered (or laminate) disintegrating.) I'm pretty sure that there is no manufacturer of solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, or laminate flooring who is going to say "yes it is okay to install this where you know urine may stand on it all night, and if it fails, your warranty will be valid." I'm not even sure a manufacturer of sheet vinyl would say that.

I was just looking for adhesive yesterday to bond wood panels....in the house without blowing my self up having a furnace on. I'm still not sure how safe I am with what was bought, they will mention flammable, but nothing is said about not being flammable. And tech sheets are for some scientist I haven't met yet. Branding doesn't help. It just adds confusion as to what the actual adhesive is meant for. There were more types than one would want to count. Glues are as interesting as paint to me. Both can have properties for use beyond their specified application. And branded for doing so allows them to increase cost of material significantly over what they would normally be used for. I remember 20 years ago seeing a crackle finish. A recipe combination of acrylic paint and hide glue. The guy at the hardware store said he had never heard of hide glue. When found, it was a couple of dollars for a quart. Now twice that for a very small bottle. Hide glue is the centuries first glue. It is now used for fine furniture inlays, old manuscripts/books/art restoration and wood musical instruments. One has to be a skilled craftsman to use this. Although still used by many woodworkers too. Not clear if it is the same formula as once was. Just a glue history lesson... Glue for the normal user can be very confusing. And due to regulations is not what we once knew. One of the things I have found is a good contractor may use the same type for an application, but their adhesives are far superior to what we are offered. If you want the best in various construction needs, even beyond adhesives, head for the contractor's options. Thank NASA for our selections and gluing a plane's tail. A positive as they have given us hundreds of every day life products than we could list here.