It's not difficult to saw out flooring at the toekick if it needs to be removed. And any water event that damages flooring will certainly damage the subfloor, or the plywood that the cabinets should be sitting on. Standard counter heights and cabinet alignment heights in kitchen design are all designed to begin at 0 as the finished floor height. Depending on the design, this can be an issue with tall cabinetry not being tall enough for the ceiling and needing to add a horizontal filler for the molding planned for it and the other cabinets. It all starts at the finished floor level. Appliances like DW's need the full 34.5 height or you may be restricted to only models that can adjust to much shorter heights. Slide in ranges are especially problematical because they aren't very adjustable and depend on the cabinets being the standard 34.5 above the finished floor. That's why plywood has to go under the cabinets and you have to know the thickness of the flooring being used during the design phase. Any other issues with doing the cabinets first mostly amount to the amount of damage that the flooring guys can inflict on the cabinets. Which can be considerable if a sander gets away from them. It's much easier to repair a hole in the drywall than it is one in the side of a cabinet. That has to actually be replaced.

chiming in a tad late but I have recently been forced into accepting this system of finishing with a proven track record of german engineering / specifications/ to standards we have yet to learn. clearly and at least twice, I read that you should be a professional to even consider using our guidelines in that some things are difficult, if not impossible to achieve the âÂÂimpossibleâ caught my attention I am a fond lover of this product, but wish I had a tad more notice, as to learn its limitations. I really like how it can make a piece of wood as dry, as if you picked it up a sunbaked piece of driftwood off a beach you paddled by in a canoeâ¦. the âÂÂdry lookâ there is a certain attraction, to making wood, look âÂÂdryâ not even a fraction of moisture, ⦠raw in nature, and yet hold a finish for standards only know to europe that trys to level the field. its a nice finish, in the hands of those who love the craft Im a tad new with the product, but so far its the best Ive ever seen, at keeping things âÂÂnaturalâ whilst maintaining the comforts of âÂÂeasyâ living a question for those who care to share their experience have you ever had any luck shading the parts of the tree, that bares the light part of the grain, that rears its beautiful light, or have you been able to shade it ? or are parts of the pdf, file, on using this product, âÂÂunlikely or impossibleâ to achieve

This floor was put in by an actual flooring company. It is the company that is contracted with this GC to do all his flooring. When He told me that I should use them because I'd get the best price, yada, yada, yada, he also said because "their installer/finishers were second to none". Now I want to ask if he knows this from his experience with them or because they told him that their installers/finishers were second to none! I was billed for "dustless" sanding & the GC has said the word dustless but neither the GC or the flooring company approached us to discuss how actually dusty the dustless is. I'm beginning to understand that you can ask as many questions as you want but if you don't ask the right questions, because of your lack of knowledge you won't end up with the information you need. Am I understanding both of you all's recommended course of action? I insist they go back and sand the floors-back to no stain? I do not ask the holes to be puttied except maybe the one in the photo below or similar, this one being dime size? I feel like this knot will lift out eventually. Then I make sure to start they are sanded properly, then stained, sealed or sealed, stained? Then poly'ed with sanding between coats. Total 3 coats. The boards with the deep gauges? The first pic really is quite deep & in a spot that will not be covered with a rug. It would be very difficult for sanding to get rid of the 2 places in the wood in the first 2 photos. Do I insist they be replaced? When you say problems with the short ends do you mean the cracks that show opening up from the show ends? Is the area in the center of the last photo lippage? The 1/2" linear sort of dome-shaped rise in the wood? As far as the humidity ect. We had small leaf acacia engineered hardwood installed in the bonus room last month by same flooring company. When the wood was delivered they did not want to bring it upstairs. I told them it was to be installed upstairs & delivering the wood early so it could acclimate make zero sense if it was not put in the room where it was to be installed. The wood was vertical stacked & left downstairs in unopened boxes. I emailed the owner/acts as install supervisor to voice my concerns about lack of proper acclimation ect. He said we would check the meter readings together before the install, although he did snidely ask me if I had a meter. Anyway, morning of readings were fine, inline with what I had researched as well as what he told me. The downstairs wood acclimated for at least 3 weeks, was not in boxes but was vertical stacked. We heated & cooled downstairs as normal during this time. Nobody offered to share any meter readings the morning of this install & I missed the owner when he was here at the start before he left. Sophie, do you still feel the issues here are from possible humidity/moisture or more likely poor preparation (sanding) & lack of dust control/cleanup before applying the poly finish? You know if you "dustless" sand & leave all the dust on the walls next to the floor being finished, pretty unrealistic to not think it 's going to float down onto the floor all day. Thank you so much for your input Cancork Floors & Sophie.

The $2K price for 470sf AND 11 stairs is a GOOD PRICE. The refinisher is right on track with the estimate. You are welcome to learn all the tricks of the trade for wood floor refinishing. Right now you probably have the time. Your research time investment should be a few hundred hours. That includes all the youtube videos you can stomach. You will also contact the manufacturers of the product you are interested. If you were to use Loba 2K Supra AT (10 minute working edge = decent for water based): 1. 1 Gallon of WS EasyPrime = $100 = 450 - 500sf (you might need two gallons just to be sure) You will apply a single coat over the entire floor once the sanding has been completed 2. 1 Gallon of Loba 2K Supra AT = $195 = 500sf for first coat. You WILL NEED two gallons to finish this floor. 3. Microfibre rollers = $10/per head = 3 heads 4. Painter's pole = $20 Sanding equipment = 3-4 days of rentals (your floors need ++ work...there is PLENTY of wear through...the poor things needed love 10 years ago) Sanding pads = double digits worth of product. You will need 3 different grit levels (eg. 60, 80, 100). Moving all the furniture and then staying off the floor for 10 days = normal.