ryanhughes, The Trane setup with 80% 2-stage Var and 13 SEER, plus indoor cased coil, new thermostat, equipment pad, 4" media filter and labor comes out to $6077. The Goodman setup with 95% 2-stage Var and 16 SEER, plus Cased Indoor coil, new thermostat, equipment pad, 16x25 MERV 11 Air filter and labor comes out to $6098. (Special friend discount) The EverRest setup, which I am not considering anymore. 80% 2-stage no variable speed and 13 SEER, plus coil, thermostat, CAP-100 filter and labor is $6957. TRANE vs Goodman. Trane probably has a better reputation, but in my scenario I may go with the higher efficient Goodman. I'm not 100% sure yet, but definitely getting there.

You should definitely be pricing with just heat pump. I live in NC which probably is a bit colder in the winter. We get down to the teens but only 15 nights a year maybe. Our winter average low is about 30. Under 10 degrees is definitely a news story. I have 5000 sq ft. I'm looking at my NG bill of $30. I have dual fuel and seer 16 heat pumps. Last winter was very cold and I spent about $700 with $200 being gas. This winter is going to be $120 in gas. My electric rates are similar to yours without the first 1000 discount. What is my point? Your gas usage will likely be $100 a year. Even if that were replaced with all heating strips, you'd be saving $200 a year or so. Since it would probable be 80% heat pump still, the dual fuel is only saving you $40 a year. So a $2500 furnace to save $40 a year seems a little crazy (on dollars alone). Turns out for me, it is probably worth it but only marginally so. I have a 90% (which you should be able to do as mine is basement with horizontal PVC exhaust). It probably saves $60-$70 on an average year. Probably cost $2000 (new house - I can't remember). What is that a 30 year payback (or never if you count interest or NG rates increase)? You do get some flexibility and you can setback at will with dual fuel. That is worth something.

We've been using a heat pump in Indiana for 13 years and have both comfort and efficiency. 13 SEER, 8.5 HSPF. Carrier mid-grade model. Here are some tips. Find out if your thermostat has hidden settings by getting the install manual. Ours is called "Installation, Start-up, and Operating Instructions." On our system, there are up to 17 options that can be adjusted or changed on the hidden menu, depending on what equipment you have. Granted, without the outdoor sensor, many of the better and/or energy savings adjustments can't be made. Can a outdoor sensor and/or new thermostat be added to your system? That shouldn't cost too much. Electric auxiliary heat should supplement the output of the heat pump, not replace it. Many heat pumps have COPs above 1.0 down to -5 degrees F. In other words, it's cheaper to use the heat pump for any heat it can produce until the COP drops to 1. 10 kW electric strip heat should work as an auxiliary for 3,000 sf, except at maybe the most fridgid temps like last winter. We have 15 kW strips on 2200 sf (1982 home, moderately tight, oversized HVAC system) and it's hardly ever used because I have it locked out to 5 F. Yes, the heat pump works fine down to 5F and then below that the strips come on to assist. Emergency heat is more correctly defined as locking out the heat pump to strip only heating. This might be used if the heat pump fails, but otherwise there is no need to use it. We've never used the Eheat setting. Wear and tear from constant compressor use? The system keeps going strong after 14 years. Proper maintenance, of course. If your system has a "always on" low speed fan setting, use it during the heating season. This is especially important for two story homes in order to prevent air stratification and to circulate the limited heat output. I'm assuming you have returns on both floors? Don't use big temp. setbacks. Our thermostat has four programmable time periods. We go with 66 night, 67 wake, 68 day, and 70 evening. The actual temps. are not so important, but the wake to day time change is only one hour, 5 AM to 6 AM. This gives the heat pump time to gradually increase the temperature in the cold early morning, which is sort of the goal with a limited output heat source. Hope this helps. Our highest electric bill ever was last January at 1,778 kWh total use and 1,328 kWh for the heating portion. I'm guessing the system put out an average 13K-16K BTUs per hour during that cold month, with most of it coming from the heat pump.

Hi everyone!! Not sure how many of you are still following this post that commented, but wanted to let you all know that I have officially paid off all of my student loan debt!!! Woo-hoo!!! I took advantage of the 0% interest and became really aggressive with getting down the balance. I’m in limbo with buying a home because of this terrible market for buyers, so I’ve decided to continue to hold off until the market starts to settle and just continue to put money in savings. Also, I’ve been in Atlanta for more than 10years and I’m not sure if this is where I want to purchase a home. I’m going to take some time to sort that out. My dream has always been to experience living some where in Southern California but sigh — cost of living. Anyways, just wanted to let you all know I crossed that major milestone!!!