Time for a new motor replacement or complete condensate unit depending on condition. Cast iron tanks, last much longer than steel.

Can I modify the plumbing and replace this pump with a more common and more reasonably priced circulating pump, say like the Taco 005-F2 Cartridge Circulating pump or similar)?

No condensate/pump tank pumps lift water and pump under pressure. Circulator pumps such as the Taco mentioned move water and only overcome friction with minimal PSI increase and no suction capabilities.

There's an old red (I forget the brand name now) hot water tank that has hot water feeding to it from the boiler at the same height and distance as the condensate tank is. That tank has a Taco circulating pump on it, and handles water of the same temperature as the condensate pump.

Don't these pumps perform the same function? Seems it'd be interchangeable. Please explain why not. Thanks.

Its probably a heat exchanger for domestic hot water or a wet loop. Circulators do just that, circulate between two areas in two directions. Pump tanks and condensate receivers pump one way, these are pumps.

For example, sump pumps don't circulate, circulators cant pump sump pits.

Since the motor and housing are fine, can I replace or rebuild just the pump parts? Can't find them anywhere online. Are they serviceable?

i would think if you motor is good that you could rebuild it.
you would need to check with a good boiler man to see if the parts are still made to do this job. Is your boiler and condensate tank both in a basement? Some time you can do away
with the tank and pump and just put in the right size steam
trap. you would have to have a good boiler man check it out.
later paulbm

Well, that's why I'm posting here. My good boiler man, A/K/A the oil company we've had for 26 years, likes to sell service and would be more than happy to just replace it for $1,021.40 inclusive. I'd be a lot happier just replacing/cleaning up the impeller or whatever else might be grinding away in there.

The chassis and motor are fine, but it sounds like a rattling flywheel when it's running, and if it's possible to just fix that would like to learn about it here. I see online that might be caused by low pressure, but doubt that's the issue.

try calling this co. and see if they have any rebuilt parts for you pump. later paul

Grainger co.
Call us at 1-800-323-0620 ask about parts for you pump.
later paulbm

I can't be the only person in the world in need of a rebuild kit for this pump.

Grainer has no replacement parts for any Hoffman model.

Really need some help here. Where else can I go. All leads I've tried have been fruitless.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grainer search

search on your pc. type in Hoffman product co. i just did that and came up with a lot of things for you to check on.
later paulbm

Googling "Hoffman product co" = wire, cable, chocolate and other manufacturers.

Do you know if someone makes a kit for servicing this pump? From my findings, Hoffman appears not to but some company must.

Hoffman is an ITT product as is B&G

Any wholesale house that handles B&G would probably have access to Hoffman parts

You never really mention what the pump is on probably but if it wired to a water feed, it must be on a pump tank, 50 gallon or bigger.

The reason it died, was the short run time, I believe you said 10 seconds. It must have a valve installed on the pump outlet to create back pressure up to 30 PSI to set seal and slow fill so that motor/pump stays on longer. Short and frequent start/stops kills motors, bearings and couplings.

These may help
http://www.bellgossett.com/literature/files/866.pdf

http://www.bellgossett.com/literature/files/684.pdf

http://rcwapp.itt.com/esponline/BG-FindPartsByDescription.asp

Page seven of the second link refers to a troubleshooting noise section. There's a section for "pump makes noise" and that section refers to pump pressure and a plug cock and other parts related to pressure.

I found the pressure to be about 9 pounds. I did not find any kind of plug cock etc, but right after the check valve there was a gate valve. I closed it until pressure went to 20 pounds, as called for in the specs and the pump clatter instantly vanished!! Wow.

Now I need to clean out or replace the check valve. It appears that the Hoffman is feeding the boiler, and that the water fed is seeping through the check valve back to the condensate tank and then it's turning on (maybe for 5 seconds every 10 minutes) and pushing the water back into the boiler.

Seems straightforward. I think I need to drain the boiler because of a lack of shutoff valves to the pipe I need to clear muck from, open the union and flush the line best I can. Any words of wisdom for that part? I uploaded a photo of the area. The check valve is the green thing in the photo.

Thanks zl and Paul....

Here is a link that might be useful:

i see the one value,there is no value on the other side of pump to shut off the water? if not i guess you are right about draining the boiler. make sure you shut off all power and water feeds and let the pressure go down. I think i would change the check. do you know if the check value is a swing
check or a spring loaded check? I can't tell by the pic.
later paulbm

Yep, its a Hammond IB904, specs linked below. I'm told that the top will unscrew for cleaning and that there is no gasket under it. Might not go that route, though.

Here is a link that might be useful: check valve specs and drawing

usually brass is not that hard to get apart. Are you ready to take your steam boiler test yet! later paulbm

Challenge me.

This stuff is easy. Just need to research the right way of doing something -- and pay attention to that last 10%.

Now does the screen strainer in the 4" Y that feeds the receiver really ever need to be removed and cleaned? Instructions how to do it are in the manual, and it's never been done.

And how do I get the muck out of the 1969 Everhot tankless coil?

This can be just neverending. Maybe I should take that test!

(Actually, I don't mind fiddling with the water side of the system, but I'd never venture into the oil side or anything that has a safety control on it)

if you are getting good water flow through the strainer Y, then it is probably ok. cleaning the tank less coil can be a little harder. They make cleaners that you can put in there
and get the lime out, if thats what it is. You have to valve off the tank so it doesn't go through your system. usually the tank has to be left open so it won't build up pressure. i usually buy the cleaner through a wholesale house so i can't tell you the name of it. later paulbm