The GE Monogram requires 12" space underneath and most of the others don't. The Thermador, Miele, and Bosch have cook timers that turn off. The GE Monogram and Electrolux do not turn off. They all have different size elements so you can see which configuration works for you. Some of the models (Thermador,, Bosch) has direct touch for the heat level you want. Others you have to tap tap tap to get to the number (Monogram actually is touch and hold, and Miele I forget.) Electrolux I THINK is tap tap tap but not sure. (I did all this last month and am looking at my notes) I am confused about Power Boost but I wrote these notes when going through the user manuals. Maybe someone can clear this up??? Thermador: other in zone has to be off Miele: Booster Power share Bosch: other in zone has to be off Monogram: Power Share if other is off Electrolux: Power Share-- other DOESN'T have to be off. Is that correct? Another thing is how long the burner will stay on if you remove a pan from the element (like for shaking the pan around). Again, This is what I wrote from the manual but you should double check. I'm not guaranteeing any info : ) Thermador: 90 seconds Miele: Pan Remove 3 minutes Bosch: Doesn't Specify Monogram: 30 seconds Electrolux: 3 minutes

There was a great thread in January about installing a working a drawer just under a Thermador induction cooktop. I searched and it is gone. I saved it on my computer and have copied it here. Unfortunately the pictures would not copy. RE: Thermador induction cooktop questions Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Mon, Jan 7, 08 at 16:26 I installed the cooktop on a standard 3 drawer base cabinet. It has a normal shallow drawer on top with two large drawers below for pots and pans. I skirted the issue of the "heat shield" mounted on the bottom of the cooktop, by mounting the heatshield in the shallow drawer pointing up. In that way it comes within 1/16 inch from the bottom of the cooktop. I also put a piece of weather strip on the bottom of the cooktop, that the heatshield rests against when the drawer is closed. By doing this, I was able to have a fully usable drawer and still provide the functionality of the heat shield. So far it has worked fine, and I believe that it was a good solution to this clearance problem. If I had mounted the heat shield on the cooktop, the shallow drawer on top would have been unusable. This was not an option. Good Luck  Posted by minu (My Page) on Mon, Jan 7, 08 at 16:52 Carguy60: Thanks for the detailed description: hopefully my installer will be able to do something similar. The Thermador website does not list the 12" burner in the specifications for the 30" cooktop, but the picture clearly shows a large burner. Could you please confirm that indeed one of the burners is 12". How do the burners perform with pots/pans that are smaller in diameter? Thanks again for all the replies: you all have been extremely helpful. Will probably go for the all-induction one. ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Mon, Jan 7, 08 at 17:41 The large burner is 11" across. I do not know where the sensor is that detects that a pan is on the burner. I would suspect that it is near the center. We have not had any difficulty with pans smaller in diameter than the burners, but I doubt we have been much smaller. BTW. I personally believe that the weather strip that I mentioned in my previous post is overkill. If you get the shield within 1/8 inch, I think that it will do it's job OK. I put it on because I am an overkill kind of person. You will love the cooktop. It still amazes me how it will boil a teakettle full of water in less than three minutes. No more tea with microwaves running around in it. Good luck ________________________________________  Posted by tamjo44 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 1:39 minu-I have the Thermador 36" and we have been using it for 2 weeks now. We love it. It is a breeze to wipe off and the instant control is amazing. We definitely wanted the larger burner in the middle. I've found a variety of cookware that works well on it. I would recommend it. carguy60- can you please elaborate on your heat shield solution? We ended up cutting down the depth of the drawer directly under the cooktop. I can put a knife holder in there or flat items, but not the spatulas, ladles etc that I was planning. Kind of a disappointment. ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 8:33 1. measure the distance from the bottom of the cooktop to the drawer. 2. cut a piece of wood,(I used cabinet filler wood) to a thickness, that when added to the height of the heat shield, will come within 1/8 to 1/16 of the distance measured in step 1. 3. Measure the distance from the front of the cabinet to the heat shield when mounted on the cooktop. 4. remove the heat shield from the cooktop. 5. fasten the heat shield, with wood strip attached to the inside of the drawer so that the heat shield is at the same distance from the front that it was when mounted to the cooktop. The heat shield will now move with the drawer, and the drawer becomes usable. Post your EMail addr, and I can send you a picture. Good Luck. removed the heat shield from the cooktop, and mountid ________________________________________  Posted by jgirl_2007 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 8:52 Carguy - Can you please post a picture. I'm in the same boat and would love to have a usable drawer under the cooktop. I'm meeting with the cabinet maker tomorrow so timing is perfect. Thanks. ________________________________________  Posted by minu (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 9:40 Carguy60: please do post a picture. I think I understand the steps you described, but it would help tremendously to have something to show to the installers as well. If you prefer email, please email me through the "My Page" link. Thanks for all your help. ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 11:16 jgirl, minu I will take some pictures, and post them as soon as I get home from work. ________________________________________ ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 19:25 As you can see from the first and second pictures, the top drawer is outwardly unmarked, and usable inside. The third picture shows the heat shield mounted on a piece of cabinet filler with it's height set to just clear the underside of the cooktop. This does the job of the heatshield which is to isolate the air intake and exhaust ports on the bottom of the cooktop. I hope this is helpful. Good Luck ________________________________________  Posted by tamjo44 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 19:44 Thanks Carguy, the photos do say a thousand words. Now, if I can get my drawer back, I will be a very happy person. By the way, did you come up with this brilliant solution yourself? Do you think doing it this way will void any warranty? ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 8, 08 at 20:04 It was my idea. When I realized how intrusive the standard heat shield was, I considered several options before settling on this one. It shouldn't void any warranty, since it is more effective than the standard mounting. It is also easy to remount for any needed warranty service. ________________________________________  Posted by minu (My Page) on Wed, Jan 9, 08 at 12:16 Carguy: Thanks so much for these pictures - they really help. I notice that you have quite a few plastic tools in that drawer. How warm does it get in there when the cooktop is operational? Thermador should include this installation option in their specs:-) ________________________________________  Posted by carguy60 (My Page) on Wed, Jan 9, 08 at 12:48 It does not get warm in the drawer. We do not cook on 4 burners simultaneously very often. (maybe never) But we do cook on 2 burners quite often, and 3 burners sometimes. We use power boost only at startup or to quickly boil something. We believe that we have heard the fan come on 1-2 times in 4 months. I am not worried about too much heat in the drawer. ________________________________________  Posted by rocksinhead (My Page) on Wed, Jan 9, 08 at 22:05 Carguy - What size is the cabinet beneath your cooktop? 33" or 36"? We are planning a 33", with framed cabinetry, and so I wonder if your heatshield trick will work. I am guessing the internal dimension of the drawer will be 28 - 29".

Wow...that's rather odd that they chose not to showcase the Flex. We were fortunate to find a dealer/showroom 15 minutes away; and while they only had the 36 on display ( guess there's no wow factor in a 30!), it was good enough. Had we not been able to see it, I think we would still have made the purchase: the internet is so wonderful with all its high-res pics + GW forum comments/reviews...plus, I'm not super-super picky about how my appliances look (i.e., whether they match each other, etc.). Wall oven: trying to rile me, eh? ;) Well, this is in line w/ my funk about replacing appliances that function perfectly well. Decided to bite the bullet and replace old built-in microwave and wall oven (since we decided on cooktop + ventilation, and might as well take advantage of the Bosch rebate). We're almost empty nesters, and wouldn't use the large oven daily/weekly. But I bake a ton for friends, family, etc., so needed a basic wall oven (standard 30" stainless steel..with the knobs -- didn't need convection and didn't want to pay extra for telescoping racks). Would have stuck with a basic microwave (and perhaps have looked at Sharp), but a friend explained how a speed oven works (which, up to that point, was an appliance I completely ignored any discussions about). With the speed oven in convection mode, it basically functions as a smaller oven: perfect for our day-to-day use. I figured the energy we'll save NOT firing up a wall oven to bake 2 potatoes will make up for the additional cost down the line. And even if it's not substantial, I'll feel better about using a properly sized oven for smaller dishes.

welcome to the "Induction Family"!! we have it installed since 2012 and would never go back to any other heat source!! we have: All-Clad - bought all at their Outlet Le Creuset: bought also at their outlet store Lodge cast iron All Clad has been perfect and its made in USA, so durable and dependable. i do clean with BKF, but not an issue for me. will last a timetime and then some. LC - nothing bad to say about it., will last a lifetime and then some. made in France Lodge: made in USA., the only to kill it (rust) is user error, but that can also be fixed with some work. i just can't stomach buying everyday use food items made in China. not in 2012 and not now, especially. buy piece by piece, what u know u use often. sets often include pieces you don't use and then they take up priceless real estate, regulated to the basement or donated which = wasted $$ if u buy these brands ^^ too expensive not use often!!