Painful Spots of Roof of Mouth
21 years ago
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- 21 years ago
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Stress induced mouth ulcers... any home remedies?
Comments (9)I tend to get those a lot, mostly from biting the inside of my mouth or tongue. The best thing I've found is zilactin, which is available over the counter at drugstores, typically by the lip balms and such. Apply as soon as you suspect one is forming, and if you bite your lip, apply it immediately. Apply 3-4 times a day, and they'll heal up in about a week. If you wait too long it takes longer to heal. Without the zilactin it used to take about 3-4 weeks for them to heal for me. Make sure you get the "regular" zilactin, which has alcohol, and not one of the variants which only contain a painkiller. My personal theory is that the ulcer is basically an infection, and the alcohol acts as a disinfectant/antibiotic to stop the infection. There's also a possible link between the foaming ingredient in toothpastes and canker sores / mouth ulcers. I think it's laurel sulfate or something like that. I switched to a non-foaming toothpaste for several years (Closys) and did notice that my canker sores decreased quite a bit. But unfortunately Closys doesn't have fluoride and I got some cavities so I switched back to a "regular" toothpaste. You may want to try the Closys until your reno is over (it's available at Walgreens)....See MoreBest primer & pain for old galvanized
Comments (8)Hey, thanks for the replies! OK, well, fortunately, the rust is appearing only in isolated spots. At most it would take a gallon of primer to coat all of them. This is on a gable roof over a 20x50 foot workshop. So yes, it's a lot of roof, but I'm only planning on addressing the problem spots. The flaking isn't the zinc galvanizing - that doesn't flake off anyway. It just seems to wear away. The rusted areas seem to have a some history that is different from the rest of the roof. They look like they had a heavy application of some kind of primer that has cracked and lifted over the years. Underneath it's more discolored than rusted. I suspect these may have been areas that lacked galvanizing in the first place and were given extra primer to compensate. Anyway, most of these areas I chipped off the old primer/paint layers and got down to sound metal. The galv steel is also a heavier gage than what I've seen at the home improvement stores; I'm a bit reluctant to chuck it out when it just needs some touch up. I'm pretty sure it hasn't been painted for at least 25 years, and that's not bad. So I'd even consider blasting/primering/topcoating the entire roof, I just want to make sure it's the right products. I did some web research and found a fair amount of info since I posted. I don't think I saw the Sherwin Williams site yet, though. So far it appears to me that zinc-bearing primers are a bit complicated and not necessarily the best solution. Although I could see cold galvanizing the corroded areas (after wire brushing) and then using a suitable pimer. Also, so far, it appears that the most compatible primers with galv. is a latex based primer, similar to what Rustoleum offers. I am gradually losing my reluctance to use a latex-based primer on galvanized. I will visit the Sherwin Williams site and see what they have to offer, as well. Here is what I've learned so far about zinc-bearing primers, it seems that they fall into two categories: those with inorganic base, and those with organic base. The inorganics are basically cold-galvanizing but are also porous and do not provide much in the way of a barrier. The organics have a lower zinc content and a higher barrier performance, but ironically do not provide much in the way of galvanic protection. Then there there are the one-step epoxy systems that claim to dispense with the need for primer, but on an old weathered roof that probably never been clean enough, I'd probably go with a primer/top coat solution. Once I do get a good solution for the shop roof, the roof over the 2 car garage has totally shed its silvery paint. The underlying galv coating is still in great shape, no rust; I've been waiting for Mother Nature to finish off the paint there before I recoat it. Any recoating will probaly wait until next spring... the weather is a bit dodgy these days for full roof painting....See MoreWhat a Pain!
Comments (21)LOL yes. I have to continually repeat to myself, "That one works, go with it and move on!" I have to constantly fight off, "But what if there's another one here that works even better?" I blame my mother. She would never let me just walk in a store and buy school clothes. We had to look at ALL the stores first, see what everyone had, then go back and buy my favorites. And I end up applying that principle to lots of things--like mosaics. (What if one of the other pieces is even better? This is the first one I tried. I can't go with the first one I tried!) It's horrible! But I am working hard to deprogram myself. LOL...See MoreTo Paint or Not to Pain 1950's Ranch Home
Comments (93)Your next step is to get samples of the colors and paint big board of them, and look at them at different times of day and in different spots. Please don't skip this important step - colors look soooo different outdoors, and in large areas, and beside other colors, as many disappointed Houzzers have found out. Many years ago I painted my master bedroom a warm beige, but because it was contrasting with a gold carpet, the pink stood out and I had a pink bedroom. Your colors will look different against your brick than they would if they were standing alone....See More- 21 years ago
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