I HAVE A 2007 TOYOTA CAMRY WITH 20000 MILES ON IT. I GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT A FEW MONTHS AGO. I CRASHED INTO A CURB WITH MY RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE RIM. BECAUSE OF THIS MY RIGHT FRONT BALL JOINT AND LOWER CONTROL ARM WERE BENT. THE RIM SUFFERED COSMETIC DAMAGE BUT I ORDERED A NEW ONE. I REPLACED THE PARTS AND GOT A WHEEL ALLIGMENT AND BALANCE. ONCE I GOT ON THE HIGHWAY I NOTICED THAT MY VEHICLE WOULD SWERVE TO THE LEFT. I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO AND NOTICED THAT IT SLIGHTLY TURNED TO THE LEFT. I ALSO EXPERIENCED A VIBRATION ON THE STEERING WHEEL AND REST OF THE CAR AS I BRAKED AT SPEED OF 60- 65 MPH. I ALSO NOTICED THAT AT HIGH TRAFFIC TIMES IN STOP AND GO SITUATIONS MY VEHICLE WOULD TURN COMPLETELY TO THE LEFT AS I WOULD LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER AND THEY RECOMMENDED ANOTHER ALLIGNMENT, BALANCE AND ROTOR REPLACEMENT. I ALLIGNED THE VEHICLE AND BALANCE THE TIRES, I DID NOT REPLACE THE ROTORS. NOTHING CHANGED. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE. I AM THINKING OF REPLACING THE ROTORS SOON TO SEE IF IT CORRECTS THE VIBRATION. I AM WONDERING IF THERE IS ANOTHER PART IN THE FRONT END THAT MIGHT OF GOTTEN DAMAGED THAT COULD CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO TURN LEFT. I NEED HELP. WHAT DO YOU THINK I SHOULD DO. I

Thanks, still have to design and build/have built medicine cabinet and storage cabinet over toilet, paint edging for one edge of tile, redo window sill (too wide now that tile is up), paint door trim and door, install granite, faucet, sink, drawers and handles... Well, phoned CS this morning, she asked "Did you clean the walls first" (slight language barrier as think she must be French LOL), "of course" I replied. Thinking aha, that's probably what it was. DH installed glass when I was away, and I'm pretty darn sure he would NOT have cleaned it off before he applied the seal (comes with very high bond tape). So, not sure how we will address the seal on the stationary glass, we're thinking somehow heat it up (maybe with hair dryer) and try and reseal it... They will be sending out new seals via FedExpress (hopefully today), but DH wants to try using the heating up method to get these current ones to reseal, and keep the new ones as back-ups. They seem pretty securely fastened today... Dreaming, the bottom shelf is a piece of our granite 'Aran Creme', and the back is a stone mosaic, probably limestone or travertine marble. We will use the same mosaic as backsplash for the vanity along with matching marble pencil liners for edging, still have to decide how high to go...

Sometimes a new machine needs a couple of rounds of leveling and foot balancing. With due respect for your contractor, he may have just checked it with a level, but not done the extra check to make sure each foot is equally loaded, and the lock nuts are (still) secure on each foot. Also a tile floor offers significant opportunity for slight but vibration-making differences of thickness, particularly at corners and edges, and for many types of tiles, in the field, too. These small hills and valleys on the tile can create a situation where each foot appears evenly balanced but in fact is not, and your are actually only weighted on two or three. It's very important to check each foot individually not just run a level across the top of the machine. Once you have the feet all correct mark the floor with tape so you can get the feet exactly back in place after you clean or move the machine for other purposes. Because feet leveling and balancing is a fidgety job, I like to do the washer installation first so I'm not bumping into the dryer. Lord only knows how people manage this in closet installations or under granite counters. I have enough trouble and my machianes are placed two feet from the nearest wall. Some people have reported here that they have used vibration-dampening mats to quell the worst of it. However I think it's really important to try to get the machine correctly balanced rather than try and correct it externally. I think it will cause excess wear, in the long run, to have the machine out-of-balance but synthetically dampened. I would only use the mats after I was very sure the problem was structural not just incomplete leveling and balancing. Try to separate the sound impression of the full-cry spin from the vibrational quality in your mind. The sound is normal, excess vibration is not. After you have run a few dozen cycles, check the balancing again as I find new foot-nuts tend to loosen up sometimes, Don't know why. Regarding the K/S comforter ... does it actually fit in the machine? If it does you might try a test wash. If it's down-filled it may be a problem, but sometimes other ones do fit. I have the smaller 5K Mieles and I wash heavy q/s down-filled comforters regularly. I have posted special down comforter-washing instructions here, which you can probably fid if you search for them. HTH, Molly

Hey kateskouros On the GVI website they recommend just trying the pads without the discs first (discs are adhesive to stick the vibration pads to the floor - I think). My concern would be that the only way you can move the machines even a bit is to lift them out of the pads - could be bad if you need a service call. Not sure on other surfaces but on tile the pads don't move nearly as easily as the feet of the machines (I'm guessing this is true on all surfaces as inhibiting the movement from the vibration is a major function of these). The guys from the delivery service didn't follow the instruction provided by GVI (which I printed out and told them). So instead of leveling the washer in place and then putting on the dryer they stacked the two units and then tried to push them in place - tough to do. I have since moved my machines a bit as I needed to push them towards the wall on the right enough that I can get my hand around on the left to reach the taps and plugs (the former nearly 25 year old pair had the dryer on a stand and the top loading washer was on casters so you could pull it forward, it was very easy to get at the taps with the washer pulled forward. All that to say I'd avoid the discs if I could.