"I wouldn't have either. IF it is torqued to spec. I wouldn't touch it again unless absolutle necessary." yeah, trust me i won't - hopefully it is in there good and will withstand the vibration of the engine. "Looks like the hole that originally was leaking?" yes, the leak was right above this screw... i'm starting to think the guy probably stripped the screw and put some thread lock or something similar on it and just screwed it back in there. after i realized it was stripped i pulled it out and it had what looked like some really lightweight aluminum or aluminum-like substance wrapped in the grooves of the bolt. this of course could be aluminum but seemed to be a little too brittle for engine aluminum. again, this is just a guess. "Now do me a favor and email me what camera you used for the pictures and how you got them from the camera into your post. I think you have my email address." sure thing! i'd be glad to Walt. the camera is a Fuji e510 5 megapixel digital camera that i've been happy with... they should be quite affordable now as i got it for $150 or so after rebate almost a year ago. i'll get that email to you in a bit.

Welcome Candice and son!! here are some sites to check out www.butterfliesandmoths.org for what butterflies are in your area and what they eat: www.whatsthatbug.com for what the "cats"(caterpillars) look like: www.monarchwatch.org www.butterfliesetc.com These are chocked full of general information!! Check out local nurseries, ask if you can take their "cats" (buy a couple of what their on!!) buy tomatoe plants-doesn't matter what kind-the cheaper the better- they attract hornworms, I know their not pretty butterflies but my son thinks their the coolest and that's what counts:-) also fennel, dill, and parsley will attract swallowtails, you can buy them at the supermarket already potted (sometimes) If you like I can send some milkweed seed just email me! Brandy

Leon, you are right that I am making an envelope out of it just one layer thick. I think it is important to have a wide contact area on the ground, to get as much heat out of the ground. Remember that a couple feet down there is a 55-degree heat radiator which is downright toasty when its 0F in the air! So I would not make it too narrow. I don't tie down my branches at all, I just prune them. Fignut, I must have used around 120' for my two rows: 30' of row length, two sides, and double height. To figure out how much to use on a tree just go run a string around it at the widest spot and measure the length. I built the covers in-place: I just wrapped the stuff around the trees. If anyone is going to try this, here are a couple more tips. I found the best attachment technique to build the envelope is to staple every couple of inches. The staple seam I use is an "outsie", with the two sheets put back to back and stapled an inch or so from the edges. I originally used somewhat more widely spaced staples but it ripped apart there so I went to 2" spacing. You need to have the cover low enough that it touches the ground on all sides. If it is not touching everywhere the wind will come in and ruin your effort. It is also very important to have some way to firmly attach the bottoms and to "cinch" a rope around it. Before I figured out how to attach it well I had the covers blowing all over my yard. Running ropes over the top does some good but the cover can still slide all over if it is not attached to the ground. To attach to the ground I mainly use ground staples (6"-long tine staples). If you hammer them all the way in and use enough of them, say one per foot, that cover is not coming up. If you don't use enough ground staples the cover may come up and rip a hole where the staple was. One other thing I do is when I get them on there may be a few branches keeping the cover from getting on all the way. I then get under the cover and prune back the offending limbs. I do prune before putting the covers on but there always seems to be a couple limbs that are keeping the cover from coming down all the way. Scott

Anyone?