I haven't seen any more in the stores. It was on clearance when I got it. We put ours over cement. The vinyl you see is a walkway, and we put porcelain tile over that. The vinyl was impossible to remove, and the installer was sure that it was stuck and not going anywhere so he installed the tile right on top. If your tile is level, the silent walk would work with another floating floor.

Truly, with such big dogs, I think that I would not use such a smooth floor. My little cocker spaniel just slides on it, even when here nails were just cut. If you go with wood, it should be something that wouldn't show the scratches as much. You might want to look at a laminate.

Good luck. I hope that your husband feels better soon.

I purchase 239 sq. ft of Trefficmaster Sernity Oak at Home Depot in Lenoir City, TN today. I paid $1.47 per sq. ft. They had the transition kits for $24.83. I plan to put it in my formal dining room with 2 in 1 foam underlayment. I plan to remove the base boards. Do most of you do this or install it 1/4" short of the base board then install 1/4 Round?

Our local Home Depot (Brandon, Mississippi)just recieved 6 pallets of Brazillian Cherry. They say they will be getting more. I don't know if this is the case for all there stores, but just thought I should add this to this thread. Good luck for all that are still looking for the product. We still love ours!!!!

Hey, Streetmedic! I just came here to tell everyone the same thing. We still haven't finished putting it down, but we did the dining room and then had tile installed in the walkway. Since then, things have been crazy, and we just started laying the living room and family today. The dining room looks great and I love it more everyday. I can't wait for the rest. The Silent Walk underlayment that I mention above is the best!

I found out from the support center today that they delivered the Brazilian Cherry to Home Depots all over. I had called them for the numbers on the molding. If you're looking for a beautiful floor at a good price, run don't walk to get it!

I plan on installing ~200 SF of the Serenity Oak Engineered HD TrafficMaster over ceramic tile with Quiet Walk (menards) underlayment. Does anyone have any advice/experience in doing this? This is a condo remodel and I think the tile is original from 1978. I'm installing in the foyer, hallway, kitchen and dining areas. I think my only concern is the level of the tile, but I think the underlayment may help in "cushioning" that.
ANY advice would help, THANKS!
Andy

We are about to install the brazilion cherry and have a question re. the underlayment. We bought the green 3-1 stuff from HD, and it says to run the underlayment up the wall 2 inches, and then trim it later. Appears that they want you to put the underlayment underneath the baseboards, in our case 1/4 rounds. Never heard of this before. Anyone use it and if so, did you put the underlayment under the baseboards or just stop it at the wall.

We just stopped at the wall. Ours is a different material, though. We used Silent Walk and it's worth the money! It's very similiar to the rubber that you sometimes see under the photo computer mouse pads. It's very heavy and thick.

Okay...

I've read ALL the posts on this forum... and have read them before (6 months ago when I was planning to buy Trafficmaster from my local HomeD).

I'm a bit perplexed.
I read all about the uniclic system, and how it was so easy to install. About the 30% angle... etc.etc.

I opened a few boxes today of my "Serenity Oak, TrafficMaster Original" today and began installing. Come to my dismay, I think I have the 'adhesive' type of flooring.

Why?! Well, it's all tonge and groove. Not uniclic. It simpley slides together.

The bad part about this, is everywhere I read... trafficmaster is all uniclic. Even the their website talks about it being "no glue... no nails"..etc.etc. I bought this flooring with the notion it did not need glue or nails! And, I've got a 2in1 underlayment for it... but still, my pieces continue to slide apart.

Can anyone enlightem me before I got back to HomeD tomorrow and start talking about returning my 45 boxes (of 26sq.ft per box) for "uniclic" style flooring?!?!

I'm a bit pissed, but thankfull I didn't lay but 2 to 3 boxes so far. All along, I've had this perplexed feeling it wasn't installing correctly. (and to think... I do all my own remodeling... scary huh?!)

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
John J

Also, the more I look....

The more I see;
- Trafficmaster 'dimensions' as being uniclic, and 8" wide.

Mine is...
- Trafficmaster 'original' and 3 1/2" wide.

Could this be the differences?! Or is the site that's linked to in this forum only for the 'uniclic' style?! ...the more I research, the more I get a stomache ache.

John J

Cured the problem today....

Returned 44 boxes of Serenity Oak "Original" (tongue and groove) that had cost me $1.68 sq.ft. and bought 50 boxes of "Dimensions" Hamilton Oak for $1.10 a sq.ft.

So much easier to install... and no need for glue!!

Thanks to all for the great info! We're very interested in this flooring we saw today at HD and need some info on how it holds up to large dogs. We have a golden retriever and we don't want him constantly sliding and leaving scratch marks, etc. Can anyone relate their experiences with this to me? I've never had anything but carpet to deal with.

I'd really appreciate any help!

Hi all,

Again, thanks to all those who have shared their experiences, it is extremely helpful.

I am currently thinking about going trafficmasters for my entire downstairs, but am still a little hesitant. I agree that it LOOKS amazing, but am wondering if those with experience can shed a bit more light on their experience so far.

How does it feel to walk on? Does it feel like pergo?
Have the seams loosened at all in any areas?
How is it holding up in the kitchen? For that matter do any of you mop it and if so any issues?

I guess that is a general list of my questions, but if you have any extra info you would like to share that would also be much appreciated

Thanks:)

OK, ours is all finally down. We really took our time! The final area was the one with the pool table, so we were trying to find a good way to move it without hurting it or the floor. We used furniture dollies and it worked like a charm.

We now have to redo our baseboard, and put down all the moldings. My husband bought the molding from Trafficmaster because it looked the best. It cost him over 500 dollars! It's terrible that they charge so much for it. We had to put it down the walkway (see picturs above)along both the living room and dining room that is pictured. We also have a raised hearth around our fireplace. We are splitting a T-molding and putting it against it. Last, we had to buy the end moldings for 2 sets for sliding glass doors.

Our little cocker spaniel doesn't love the floor. She looks for any throw rug to lay on. When she plays, she slides around. The only problem with spots on the floor has come from her chewing and licking like dogs do. It leaves smeary places on the floor and you can see them when the light shines on them. That's it, except for, of course, regular sand and dirt. You do need to use a microfiber mop to do a quick run around. I actually feel good knowing that my floor is getting clean, unlike what I couldn't see on my carpet. I haven't seen any scratches from her nails. Before we got this, we bought one box and did the "beat it up" test on it. I dropped cans, knives, threw a pool ball at it, scratched my nail down it(which many expensive woods did not handle very well...there's lot's of wood stores with my fingernail marks on their wood samples) etc. It held up better than most. Only the knife did not very well. The others left marks, but not bad.

The floor looks beautiful. I wouldn't say it looks like Pergo, it looks much nicer. I do miss the texture and lines between pieces on a regular wood floor. The thing is, I wanted real wood and this was the one that I could afford and we could do ourselves on our concrete floor. I like modern things, and it really looks great. We love the underlayment because the sound levels in here are better than houses that I've been in with other kinds. It was so easy to work with, too. When we get the molding done, I'll take some more pictures.

Truthfully, I don't think it would be wonderful in a kitchen because it is very shiney and would show every water spot.

Good luck! I saw on the website that they have other color choices now, too!

Kristen

Wow - you all know a lot about flooring. I am taking up carpet in our den - over a cement floor. I have two dogs who don't like to "go" outside in the winter snow (if you know what I mean.) I don't know whether to go with wood grain vinyl, hardwood or laminate flooring. Can anyone advise me? Money is definitely an issue and my husband is gung ho to do it himself (except for vinyl) but I'm worried about his ability. I think that Trafficmaster is on sale here at HD too. But now I'm worried about whatever kind of pieces we need to go around the fireplace- which is raised up concrete only. Any of it a problem with urine? Any help? or Suggestions?

No flooring is warrantied against the damage from urine. The flooring that handles it best, is either commercial sheet vinyl that gets waxed, or VCT with a heavy coat of wax.

WOW! What a thread! Very glad to have found you!

Hubby and I have been researching flooring options to cover our hideously ugly builder's basic sheet vinyl. Hubby seems to think that click and lock flooring is beyond our capabilities, but I think we can do it as long as we don't expect it to get done overnight. True hardwood is not in our budget, so we've been considering laminates and he's currently stuck on a different TrafficMaster product-Allure peel and stick vinyl planks, which I'm vary of. If we are going to put in all this time, effort and $$, I want the floors to add some value and be something that we won't have to touch again for a looong time.

We've been all over: Lowe's, HD, LL, etc and keep getting different answers when we can get ANYONE to bother to answer our questions at all (Don't even get me started on our 4-store HD quest). I know they're all trying to sell me on whatever product they're getting a spiff on or desperately want to unload... or they simply don't give a poop. I just want to get some unbiased answers on product quality and installation so we can get the best flooring we can afford. Sounds like a lot of you have had good luck with this type of flooring and have installed it yourselves. Any hints for the newbie?

FYI - House is a 4 yr old typical Florida ranch. Nothing's wrong with the floors except we hate them. At the barest minimum, we need to replace the sheet vinyl areas: ~300sqft of hallway and kitchen. I'd prefer to run our choice of flooring from LR and DR (on either side of entry hall) down the hall thru the open kitchen and into the FR, then go down the hall towards the smaller bedrooms. I'd prefer the master BR be a hard floor as well for hubby's allergy relief.

Any suggestions?

"We've been all over: Lowe's, HD, LL"

You have been to the wrong places!!!!! If your asking for advise at those places, I pray for you!!! Your digging at the bottom of the barrel. The clueless, leading the clueless.

Hey all,

First off, I want to thank all of you for the great info. I saw the trafficmaster Brazillian Cherry at HD a couple months ago and soonafter found this thread that gave me the confidence to go buy about 900sq ft. I installed it over the past four days throughout my 1BR condo (except for the bathroom and kitchen).

It probably would have taken less than four days but I decided, about half way through, that I wanted to put a new opening between my kitchen and living room and carry the wood through to the eat-in section of my kitchen. Also, I have a closet in my foyer and hallway that I wanted to carry the wood into without t-moldings so that took alot of extra time to figure out.

I just wanted to put in my two cents to help people out in the decision. The most important thing on installing this flooring on concrete is to make sure it is level. I spent quite a bit of time grinding down high spots in the concrete throughout the condo. If you have low spots, you will need to use a self leveling compound. Do not underestimate this step. If your floor is not close to perfect you will have flexing and clicking when you walk across.

As for underlayment, I went with the quietwalk from Lumber Liquidators. They charge $50 for a 100sq ft. roll. I went to efloors.com and found it for $31 a roll, took the printout to LL and they matched the price plus I picked up so I didn't have to pay shipping. Also, another good money saver, if you don't have a home depot credit card, apply for one and they will give you %10 off your first purchase. That saved a few hundred bucks on the flooring purchase.

As for laying the floor, I did everything myself and it hurt pretty bad. If you can get someone to help, even just handing you the wood, it will go so much easier.

Overall, the flooring turned out even better than I had expected. This is real wood and can not be imitated by pergo or any other laminate. I still have to purchase all of my transitions and do the trim work but I am very pleased with it already.

I just read this and that's why it took us so long to finish the floor. We took our time because even though we had a system to put it down (thanks to the advice here) it does wear you down if you're not used to bending and kneeling like that! We agreed with one of the posters above and did a row at a time. For a few rows where the living room and family room meet our rows were about 30 feet long. I would lay the wood out and then sit and straddle the first board. DH lifted the next board while I lined it up and put it down. He tapped it in place with the hammer and then I would slide on my butt to the next board. We did this until the end, where he measured and cut the last piece. We then lifted and attached it to the last row. My DH had knee pads to go down the entire row with the tapper.

We just got our transitions...all $500 dollars of it! We also got new baseboard. That's our next thing to do. We can't start until the shutter guys finish the trim on our plantation shutters. I can't wait to say, "We're done!"

I have seen the brazilian cherry at the local HD-- It is on "special" and i was told that the finishing pieces are not available. Is this because it is discontinued? Is there any reason that users know of for this? The cost is still 2.99 which is what it was according to the earlier entries.
i am overwhelmed with the choices of engineered hardwood and laminate. this is for a family room- no pets and no small children-- ease of installation is a factor.
Any thoughts from those who have used this product or laminate would be appreciated

Once you have it down, it was easy to install. Read my previous posts about the underlayment we used. I HIGHLY recommend it.

You have to special order the moldings. We did. My HD had trouble finding the numbers. Here they are. I called the Trafficmaster number on the website and they sent this to me.

Thank you for your purchase of Traffic Master Dimensions Hardwood Flooring. The Home Depot now has access to trim. The information
below may be helpful in discussing what you may need with your local Home Depot salesperson.

THD SKU # Description Model # Code Price
925-556 47"Af Chestnut T- Mold MI-TM-19-A 29.99
927-811 47"Af Chestnut End Cap MI-EC-19-A 29.99
947-970 47" Af Chestnut Flush Reducer MI-FR-19-A 29.99
948-304 47" Af Chestnut Flush Stairnose MI-FS-19-A 34.09
955-981 47"Af Chestnut Overlap Reducer MI-OR-19-A 29.99
957-976 47"Af ChestnutOverlap Stairnose MI-OS-19-A 34.49
961-590 96" Af Chestnut Qtr Round MI-QR-19-A 26.99

926-876 47"Br Cherry T- Mold MI-TM-20-A 29.99
927-873 47"Br Cherry End Cap MI-EC-20-A 29.99
946-276 47" Br Cherry Flush Reducer MI-FR-20-A 29.99
951-773 47" Br Cherry Flush Stairnose MI-FS-20-A 34.09
955-361 47" Br Cherry Overlap Reducer MI-OR-20-A 29.99
957-852 47" Br CherryOverlap Stairnose MI-OS-20-A 34.49
959-847 96" Br Cherry Qtr Round MI-QR-20-A 26.99

Please contact us at 1-800-560-4549 or by
e-mail support@trafficmastersupport.com if we may be of further assistance.

Sincerely,

TrafficMaster Support

We love our floor. It looks great and seems to be holding up well to two teenage boys and a sliding cocker spaniel.

Hi,

I'm looking to buy some laminate flooring for my townhouse, but I have no idea what to get. I saw the Trafficmaster Hamilton Oak at HD for $1.49/ sq ft. I'd googled trafficmaster and came across this forum. I know there's been a lot of discussion about the trafficmaster brand but how is the hamilton oak line? Should I buy it for my house? If anyone could provide any kind of feedback on this particular line it would be very helpful. I'm planning to install the floor next weekend. Thanks

Hi guys!!!
Well....today I purchased 400 sq.ft. of Trafficmaster serenity oak Engineered hardwood flooring. Me and my husband plan to install it this weekend using glue because thats what home depot told me that this product is a glue on product because I have Concrete under my carpet. I will take pictures so you guys can see. I purchased Serenity Oak at home depot for $1.49 witch is not bad. Wish me luck !!! :)

Hey,

I was looking at buying some of this, but I can't find it online at home depot, does anyone have a sku or an address for the online version of this at HD?

Also does anyone know if you can get this in Canada, I checked my home depot today and couldn't find it there. I live in Calgary.

Tyler

Update: WOW! I am so happy with my hd traffic master engineered serenity oak floors! My husband is installing it right now and looks Awesome!!!!! Pictures coming soon!!!!

Hi All-

I picked up enough Brazilian Cherry for an 11 x 16 room. I found two different types of glueless Trafficmaster Dimensions. One type had Yellow color on ends of boxes and had almost 21 sq ft to a carton. Last week it was $50 a carton and this week it was $30 a carton.

They also had another Brz Cherry but the box end was Tan in color, and had the same 25 yr warranty. This carton had 13 Sq Ft per carton for $35 a carton.

I could not find any difference listing on carton, but on the displays- the expensive stuff looked better having smaller width strips ON the planks.

I bought 10 boxes of the cheaper stuff, but need to lay down some ceramic tile against a patio door first. This leads out to a hot tub, so I felt I needed that transition area first.

Looks like some good stuff.

Chris

Hi ya'll - i bought the Valley Oak Trafficmaster @ HD for $1.47/square foot - yes, the tongue and groove. However, i don't THINK it will be a problem, based upon some EXTENSIVE research online i have been doing.

It IS the gluedown type. BUT, i want a floating floor. SO, i am planning to do it as a floating floor, using glue in the grooves to connect (yes, squeeze bottle kind).

Anyone have any thoughts?

Also - will my "rolling" executive chair be a problem on this wood?

Our trafficmaster Allure keeps coming up around the edges. Anyone have that problem??? Home depot did the install...

Valley Oak Trafficmaster is the type we purchased.

We are planning on installing today. Much like this message board has evolved over time, I believe HomeDepot's "support" of the entire TrafficMaster line has changed considerably. We bought 350 sq. ft. in August when it was on sale - since then Home Depot now has 3 more TrafficMaster lines of wood/laminate/engineered flooring.

We did have to do a lot of research - and still ended up getting quite different answers regarding underlayment and installation methods - glue, staple, float or not.
Our Home Depot (in the Kansas City area) has 4 different lines - 3 of them are laminates and I believe all of those click and float. In the display at HD, the Valley Oak "Originals" has bulleted highlights for each product. TrafficMaster engineered, it indicates, can be nailed or stapled down - although this is tongue and groove style 3" strips, they are NOT intended to float because I guess it is not using the "click" method others have. All the other displays mention floating except the Originals line

We plan on renting the specialized nailing tool today - it delivers the right depth and angle needed and supposedly will not destroy the strips.

Underlayment - I purchased a 3-in-1 type. It is red and covered with styrofoam dots - my son says it looks like candy. My dad, who will be coming over to help, says we don't need the underlayment. I don't want it to have the fake wood sound effects, because it is not fake wood (at least the top layer is real) and I want it to feel real under foot.

I'll post and update later this weekend to let anyone know how our method worked out.

We also happen to be installing carpet (hiring a pro for that) - carpet stores carry QuietWalk. One installer who bid on our capet uses QuietWalk all the time to go under engineered and laminate flooring. So, check local carpet and flooring places.

We now have wood floors in our dining room and kitchen. They look very nice - unfortunately, I am still very partial to REAL wood floors. These are only real for the top veneer.

Tips on installing THIS type (not the TrafficMaster laminate w/photo of wood).
We used existing vinyl flooring - nothing else for underlayment and it is just perfect, has cushion and uniform smooth surface. We had carpet as the previous flooring in the dining room - so we chose to build the underlayment up to the vinyl on the kitchen side. We used sheets of .375" luan - cheap and worked great. I also fixed one large uneven area with floor leveler and covered it with some plastice. Since we nailed down nearly every board using the angled stapler - not floating - everything feels very solid, like a hardwood floor should. Skip the underlayment designed for floating floors if you are going to nail down - it is overpriced an unnecessary for cushion. I guess if you want the vapor barrier you could use that - be we were above grade. Note that the display at Home Depot does NOT indicate a floating install for this line - it says nail or staple down.

We rented our nailer from Home Depot. We have an air nailer, but not an ANGLED stapler. I don't think there IS a stapler specifically for flooring that is 5/16. They will advise you on which one to get. You may want to put tape on the side that rests on the floor as it tends to rock and if you are not holding it firmly on the floor, you staple might end up on TOP of the wood plank. OOPS! The staple goes into the tongue and is recessed enought that it doesn't effect the tongue and groove aspect.

It is very easy to chip the edges when installing - and tapping together the tongue and groove. If I were to make this decision all over again, I would have gone with a thicker veneered product, like the 9/16 products. If I had the opportunity to change the product, I would have incorporated grooves on the edges so it looks more real - and that would prevent the edges from chipping when the hit one another.

Plan the install well. Establish a straight line and hide unevenness under the quarter round. You may want to place any ripped in half boards at the beginning so they are not as noticeable. If you need to get underneath cabinets or doors, it gets pretty challenging - as the angled nailer will not fit into small spaces. There are some areas where you no other choice but to face nail it. The holes created by face nailing with an air nailer are very small and I will be filling in with some wood putty here and there.

Remember that once you start going in one direction, you can't change directions - which is why they advise you to start in the far corner of a room. To me, that means that by the time you get over to the entrance, the lack of square may become extremely evident - and that will be where you enter the room. So, I would measure, measure, measure. If you are crossing over two rooms, as we did, establish where your straight line is - longest wall that crosses across both rooms - and measure from there to your far corners to keep straight rows. We actually started at that wall and worked into the corner because it was very important to have nice looking rows at the entrance - and we could hide the face nailed boards under trim at the far corners. If you need to change directions, either create your own biscuits to create a double male or you could try to remove top and bottom of boards to create your own double male. There is supposed to be something available for purchase for this purpose, but none of the HDs in our area had it.

Overall, this product is definitely a step above vinyl flooring and carpet. It looks very much like real wood flooring - until you go somewhere and see a real one! When you staple down, it also FEELS like a real hardwood floor.
Very nice results for low price - our was $1.29 sq. ft. I believe.

I think that people who plan on doing the floating install will be disappointed - this is not a "Quik Lock" floor.

The floor that Designgirl used is not the same floor as the original we talked about. If you scan up you see a few others talking about the difference. It said,

"The type being discussed here is about 5/8" overall with about a 1/8" thick veneer of hardwood. The cheaper product has about 1/32" of hardwood."

We floated it and are not disappointed. We still have a couple of pieces of molding to do, but most of it is finished. Our family came for Christmas and everyone commented that our house looks like new! Combined with our gray porcelain floors, it's very lovely and modern. We have had no problems with raised edges and had very little chips when installing. The thing that took the longest was me picking out the "right" pieces so that there weren't little checkers all over at the ends of the planks.

I'll post some pictures soon.

The floor that Designgirl used is not the same floor as the original we talked about. If you scan up you see a few others talking about the difference. It said,

"The type being discussed here is about 5/8" overall with about a 1/8" thick veneer of hardwood. The cheaper product has about 1/32" of hardwood."

We floated it and are not disappointed. We still have a couple of pieces of molding to do, but most of it is finished. Our family came for Christmas and everyone commented that our house looks like new! Combined with our gray porcelain floors, it's very lovely and modern. We have had no problems with raised edges and had very little chips when installing. The thing that took the longest was me picking out the "right" pieces so that there weren't little checkers all over at the ends of the planks.

I'll post some pictures soon.

Here you go. I took this after the holiday craziness. You can see the ever popular Wii on the marble.

We built our house in 1988. At the time, we had light gray carpeting and light cray vinyl where you see the tile now. The black marble was very "in" at the time. The trick I faced was to choose a tile that did not compete with it. I chose Imola Micron porcelain tile. I love it. It cleans so easy and doesn't show the dirt. It goes down the hallway and into our kitchen at one end and into our bathroom at the other. Our wood floor is the Brazilian Cherry version of the original one on this thread. The only thing we have left to do is we have to split a T molding to put along in front of the marble. You can see our sample piece to the left. We used the Trafficmaster matching molding because it went with it the best.

Floor looks great, kristinfl. I still haven't seen that stuff in HD yet. That floor tile is just what I'm looking for for my kitchen, too.

Thanks! We really love it. You're going to too. We're also really proud of the wood because we did it ourselves!

All of your postings have been very helpful. We are considering doing our entire house except a couple of the bedrooms w/ the Brazilian Cherry Traffic Masters. Has anyone installed it in their kitchen and bathrooms? I read someone was concerned about water spots. Also, any comments/ideas on how to keep the floor clean? I know to use a microfiber mop but does anyone use any cleaners besides a water damp mop? Thanks for your help!

HELP!
Have been looking at the Trafficmaster Valley Oak Engineered Wood (.32" x 3" x 35.5"). 15-year warranty. Tongue & groove glue down. It's 97 cents a square foot at the local HD clearance center. They have tons of it. Along wtih the cherry.
I have a circa 1960s brick ranch which I don't want to pour tons of money into because I probably won't get it back in the long run. But is this floor a good idea or a bad idea? I'd rather spend more money and have it last 10 years than go the cheap route and have to replace it all. Am looking to do the living room, dining room, kitchen, den and hall to the bedrooms. But I do have two dogs - 70 lbs. is the biggest so nails are an issue. But then can't some well-placed area rugs take care of some of that?
I truly have no idea what to do. We've been having work done on the house and everything has been a disaster. Am suing our contractor, having to get the shower re-tiled for a THIRD time, my husband has been seriously ill. My head is swimming and not in a good way. Ha.
Thanks for any advice you can offer. BTW, all the photos look gorgeous!

Hey!

I found this group whil Googling for the TrafficMaster African Chestnut. My sister installed it in her house about a year ago, I think, and I decided I wanted to use it in our den. Couldn't find it anywhere, so I contacted the trafficmaster web site and here's what they said:

On Wed, Feb 20, 2008 at 11:41 AM, Randall Bryant wrote:

Subject: TrafficMASTER Support Request

Material has sold out Nation wide. There are no plans to bring this species back to Home Depot.

I was at HD earlier today and saw the Valley Oak on clearance, but after reading this thread, I think it's probably the lesser-quality flooring and maybe the kind that needs glue. I did find it on the Home Depot site here. Maybe it's being discontinued as well?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?pn=SF_FL_FlooringOffers&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Trafficmaster Valley Oak-Engineered Wood Flooring & Trafficmaster Serenity Oak-Engineered Wood Flooring Now $.98 Sq. Ft.
Trafficmaster Valley Oak-Engineered Wood Flooring and Trafficmaster Serenity Oak-Engineered Wood Flooring (578-350, 579-242) was $1.98 Sq. Ft. now new lower pricing is $.98 Sq. Ft. Clearance in Stores while supplies last.
Available In-Store Only

Does anyone know if your local HD has any of the Serenity Oak left. I've search over half of Tennesse and can't find any. Thanks!

HELP!!!
I just bought the TRAFFIC MASTER ORIGINAL VALLEY OAK ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING.
I bought it at HD clearance for $.98 sq/ft.
Several of the HD's in Miami had it on clearance, but no employee knows anything about how installing it.
One told me that I have to use adhesive to put it down.
One told me I could float it.
Another told me I had to nail it.
HOW DO YOU INSTALL THIS FLOORING?
I am doing it myself and have never installed floor.
So if I have to do anything but simply lay it. Then I probably will return it for laminate floating.
Somebody tell me if I can just float this will a 2-1 underneath and no glue or nails!?!?
HELP!

HELP! We just installed this crappy Valley Oak floor and I think we have ruined it! We have adhesive marks all over the floor! We have tried many different cleaners and nothing is working. Can we sand it and refinish it? My wife & I have never done this before and really need help!

Thanks in advance

We installed this type of flooring with messy adhesive as well, we got it from Lowes 4 yrs ago but its the same concept. The fact that we were in over our heads attributed largely to the amount of adhesive I had to clean when installation was complete. I have one of those rubber bristled broom type of devices with a squeegie on one side. I used a thick solution of Murphy's oil soap & massaged it in with the rubber broom, came back over it with the squeegie end & the glue came up. I was able to get the whole mess up with a wet-dry vacuum, followed by a couple of passes with clear warm water and a dust mop. It as a lot of hard work because I had to scrub 1,000 square feet of flooring, but it is just as beautiful as the one in the picture above. I have enjoyed it immensely!

Good luck to you!

I too just bought the TRAFFIC MASTER ORIGINAL VALLEY OAK ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING at HD clearance for $.98 sq/ft. I have the same question as above, how do you lay it? I know that you are to follow manufactuer instructions, but it says that it has to be glued down and I want to float it....Is it possible with such a low quality floor? It has the tounge and groove so why can't I glue the seams together and float it....I'm too scared to glue it down because I have heard it is a nightmare! Someone out there please help!

Every once in awhile I come back to see what others are doing with this flooring. I think some people were mistaken that the original flooring talked about on the web was the same as what they bought. There are lots of floors under the Trafficmaster name. Be careful. What made all of us love the original is that the top layer is very thick. I haven't looked in awhile, but they did bring back the B. Cherry because of it's success. We still love our floors! We have the occasional scratch here and there, but not very much. Even our Cocker Spaniel has learned to enjoy sliding after her toys for what seems like forever! Her nails don't seem to have an effect on it. Read from the beginning. If you can find it, this is 5/8" overall with about a 1/8" thick veneer of hardwood. It is sturdy and great for them money.

We just had company from PA this week, and they couldn't believe that our house was built in 1988. They said it looked so new and modern! That was the confirmation that our floors were worth every penny.

This is the number that I called for molding numbers and advice. The people were great. Maybe they can help you find it. (800) 560-4549

designergirl_3811,

Bostich does make a stapler just for this type of engineered flooring, Model LHF97125, and the newest model, LHF97125-2 is adjustable for most thicknesses of flooring.

By the way, the grove you talk about on "REAL" hardwood flooring is not there in real raw wood installed flooring, the only type done until the last 10 or 15 years. The grove you speak of was designed into prefinished hardwood flooring so the finish doesn't chip at the edges when installed.

What is usually considered REAL hardwood goes in without finish. The top surface is then sanded flat with several grades of sandpaper using floor sanders then the finish is applied. This flooring will last for 100 years plus and multiple refinishes, as often as 10 or 15 times. It is still available in most home centers for around $1.00 to $1.25 per square foot so it is cheaper than most other flooring.

The price goes up by a dollar or two a square foot though when the finishing is included. It is harder for an amature to install if you only need to do it once or twice due to the specific sanding tools needed.

jeg1125,

Your flooring is designed to be stapled to the sub floor just like solid hardwood. Bostich makes a stapler designed to staple this type of flooring. See model numbers above, this may be availabloe for rental at some stores. I am doing 1200 s.f so I purchased a used one from ebay for $60.00.

shammo,

I believe you CAN glue this down with mastic BUT, you MUST clean any mastic off the top as you go, if you wait till the floor is done, you may not be able to get it off without a lot of work. You may try the maker of the glue, they may have some remover.

I have read that you might be able to float this by putting glue in the tounge and grove and seating each plank, but I have no first hand knowledge.

This entrie has been very helpful and good luck all with your floors.

One last thing, I am pretty good with wood so I made all of my trim strips from oak and stained them to match. So the fact that HD had none of the trim strips was no problem and it was a lot cheaper.

Hey everyone. We just found the laminate wood floor at hd. We got enough for 114sqft. It was only .98 sq ft!!! at that price, i wanted to buy enough to do our whole downstairs, to bad we didnt have enough money.lol I cant wait to see it laid down. Any tips would be great...we are so new at this. We are having to paint the room before we lay the floor down.We got the glueless.

Any negatives to this floor? I like the Brazilian Cherry.

We have had our trafficmaster floor for about 7years and Iwanted to give it som eshine it has gotten dull.I used orange cleaner for hardwood floors it was supose to give it shine too.It did but in a few days foot prints showed up ,and when I try to clean it off it is stricked.What can I do to get this off and restore the shine? please help Brenda Smith

Found some great tips about allure flooring

SPAM ^^^^^^^^^^^^^!!!!