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fasola_shapenote

Southern yellow pine + aniline stain + tung oil + shellac + wax

fasola-shapenote
15 years ago

Hey y'all, I just had some new southern yellow pine flooring put down (3/4" x 3-1/4", face-nailed, unfinished, tongue-and-groove -- very traditional, very sturdy, and very inexpensive), and I'm dead-set against using polyurethane to finish it, because the idea of coating a wood floor with plastic just sounds (and looks)...tacky. Besides, it won't match the flooring in the rest of the house, which is 80+ years old and finished with shellac. I'm all about traditional - and I mean true traditional, not hack traditional.

This is how I'm intending to finish this new flooring (definitely takes a long time and is labor-intensive...but money can't buy a more beautiful finish!) -- I would like input if anything is wrong here; I am particularly concerned about the sandpaper grits, and about "rubbing out" the finish:

* Sand with 120-grit sandpaper; remove dust

* Dampen floor; wait for it to dry

* Sand with 150-grit sandpaper; remove dust

* Dampen floor; wait for it to dry

* Sand with 180-grit sandpaper; remove dust

* Dampen floor; wait for it to dry

* Sand with 220-grit sandpaper; remove dust

* Apply Minwax Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

* Wait 4 minutes

* Wipe off excess wood conditioner

* Wait 25 minutes

* Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper; remove dust

* Mix batch of water-soluble aniline dye (J.E. Moser's "W1580 Red Walnut" + "W1340 Georgian Brown" - refer to ftp://pdfwood:download@www.woodworker.com/clrcharth2o.pdf for color chart for this pair and the next pair)

* Stain floor with aniline dye mix

* Mix batch of water-soluble aniline dye (J.E. Moser's "W1450 Cherry Amber Maple" + "W1320 Dark Antique Sheraton")

* Stain floor with aniline dye mix

* Wait 1 week

* Mix batch of 1 part pure tung oil with 1 part turpentine; add oil-soluble aniline dye crystals (J.E. Moser's "L2330 Dark Brown Walnut")

* Apply successive coats of mix until the entire floor goes 40 minutes with no "dry spots"

* Gently wipe off excess oil with lint-free T-shirt-like cloth

* Wait 16 hours

* Mix batch of 1 part pure tung oil with 1 part turpentine; add oil-soluble aniline dye crystals (J.E. Moser's "L2310 Medium Brown Walnut" - refer to ftp://pdfwood:download@www.woodworker.com/clrchartoil.pdf for color chart for this and from here on out)

* Apply successive coats of mix until the entire floor goes 40 minutes with no "dry spots"

* Gently wipe off excess oil with lint-free T-shirt-like cloth

* Wait 16 hours

* Mix batch of 1 part pure tung oil with 1 part turpentine; add oil-soluble aniline dye crystals (J.E. Moser's "L2360 Seal Brown")

* Apply successive coats of mix until the entire floor goes 40 minutes with no "dry spots"

* Gently wipe off excess oil with lint-free T-shirt-like cloth

* Wait 16 hours

* Mix batch of 1 part pure tung oil with 1 part turpentine; add oil-soluble aniline dye crystals (J.E. Moser's "L2170 English Brown Mahogany")

* Apply successive coats of mix until the entire floor goes 40 minutes with no "dry spots"

* Gently wipe off excess oil with lint-free T-shirt-like cloth

* Wait 6 weeks

* Prepare dewaxed shellac (40% "Orange Lac Dewaxed", 30% "Lemon Yellow Dewaxed", 15% "Garnet Dewaxed", and 15% "Ruby Dewaxed" - all from shellac.net - refer to photos at http://www.shellac.net/ShellacPricing.html) to 2-lb. cut using Behkol Solvent

* Scuff-sand floors; remove all dust

* Apply shellac, using lambs'-wool applicator

* Wait 24 hours

* Sand lightly with 180-grit paper; remove all dust

* Apply 2nd coat of shellac, using lambs'-wool applicator

* Wait 24 hours

* Sand lightly with 220-grit paper; remove all dust

* Apply 3rd coat of shellac, using lambs'-wool applicator

* Wait 24 hours

* Sand lightly with 350-grit paper; remove all dust

* Apply 4th coat of shellac, using lambs'-wool applicator

* Wait 2 weeks

* Sand lightly with 600-grit paper to "rub out" finish; remove all dust

* Wait 24 hours

* Apply thin coat of paste wax; buff to a deep gloss

* Apply 2nd thin coat of paste wax; buff to a deep gloss

* Apply 3rd thin coat of paste wax; buff to a deep gloss


That should leave me with the most beautiful and deeply warm wood floor man's ever seen, and it should last for decades with just the occasional waxing.

Comments? Suggestions? Do the grits sound right?

Thanks!

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