Ezzirah, Be careful about trusting average last frost dates. (This is where personal experience in your location, or lack of it, comes into play and you find yourself trying to guess what the weather is going to do.) And, even if you have successfully gardened in your location for 5 or 6 years or longer, the weather still can fool you. My average last frost date is March 27th. Prior to 2006, I routinely transplanted my tomato plants into the ground beginning as early as the first week in March, knowing I'd have to cover them up about one cold night a week until the cold weather passed, and I seldom had to cover up the plants more than once or twice in April. So, essentially, my last frost date seemed pretty accurate and "was working" for me. Then, something in our regional climate changed. Since 2006 we have had later and later and later cold nights. We've had snow in March around my so-called "average last frost date", snow in April well past our average last frost date, and our last frost has come the first week in May (consistently on May 3rd or 4th) for the last three years. In 2006 or 2007 I planted a week later than my last frost date only to have a prolonged cold spell including sleet and snow hit well after I had all my tomato plants in the ground. When I saw the forecast deteriorating, I knew I had to do something and do it fast or lose over 100 tomato plants, which by then were between 10-20" tall and some even had blooms. I ran to the store and bought 2 or 3 large rolls of heavy 6mm clear plastic and several rows of duct tape. First, I filled every 5-gallon bucket, 3-gallon bucket, 2-liter bottle and gallon jug I had with water to serve as solar collectors. Then I got busy building temporary hoop houses over 7 rows of tomato plants, using the tomato cages as the support for the plastic and using duct tape to close up the ends of the plastic to keep out wind. I also used U-shaped metal ground staples (normally used to hold down fabric mulch) to ensure the ends of the plastic would stay down on the ground and not blow up into the air. It looked like I was covering up furniture in preparation for painting an interior room in the house. It literally took me from sunrise on the first day until after sunset on the second day, but I did it in a desperate race to cover up the plants before the cold front hit. I also piled up mulch all around the plants but not on top of them which would have caused disease issues. My poor plants then sat there under those 'temporary' hoop houses for 3 weeks until the cold air, rain, sleet and snow had passed. It was horrible. I don't think I lost many plants, but I had to monitor them carefully because it is easy to get diseases on plants grown under plastic since the plastic restricts air flow and I also had created artificially high humidity with the solar collectors full of water under the plastic. Sometimes, if we had an almost-warm day with lots of sunlight (mostly it stayed cloudy during that cold spell), I had to cut open the ends of the temporary hoop houses to vent out the much-too-hot air during the afternoon, and then retape them before sunset. Covering the plants with plastic alone wouldn't have kept them warm enough during that time because some of the nighttime lows were in the 20s, but with the solar collectors catching heat all day and releasing it at night, the plants survived. If I had to do all that again, would I? Maybe, but I've tried to avoid having to go to those lengths by planting later and later every year. Even with later planting, I still get slammed with the hard frost in the first week of May. After 3 years of that, though, I have accepted it as "the new normal" and keep floating row cover/frost blanket type material, heavy-duty plastic, bedsheets, bedspreads, tarps and old sleeping bags handy so I can cover up everything during our "surprise late freeze" the first week in May. Remember, my average last frost date is March 27th. And the issue isn't solely that I am in a lower-lying area than much of the rest of the county (although I am) because from 1999-2005 the average last frost date seemed to be accurate even in our low-lying area. You can't even necessarily rely on short-term forecasts. I think it was in 2007 (could have been 2008, as the years run together after a while) that I left my plants uncovered the first week in May because our overnight low was supposed to be 50 degrees. It had been 50 degrees pretty much every night for a week, so I had no reason to think the forecast was incorrect...but it was. Instead of dropping to 50 degrees, our overnight low dropped to 32 degrees and almost all my tomato plants suffered freeze damage. Some froze back to the ground, while others only had scattered damage. Only one row---the row of black tomatoes (Black Krim, True Black Brandywine and Black Cherry) that sat at the highest point of my sloping garden--survived unscathed. I thought my 50-degree-forecast-that-gave-me-32-degrees instead was a fluke that never would happen again, but then the same thing happened to George in either 2008 or 2009. Luckily, it happened right before our annual spring plant swap so some folks (I think Carol was one) who had raised tomato plants like his Baker Family Heirloom from seed he sent them were able to bring plants to the swap for him to replace what he'd lost to the freeze. So, I suggest you take all "average" dates and recommended planting dates with a grain of salt. Something has seriously changed in our local climate during the last half of the first decade of the 2000s, and we're still operating with 'averages' computed using data from the 1970s, 80s and 90s. Even after you plant, you have to watch the forecast very carefully and some of us have learned we can't even trust a forecast low of 50 degrees. It pays to always have material on hand to cover up plants when there is even a slight chance of the forecast being horribly wrong. Dawn

Sorry I wasn't clear! I guess I thought if I knew what I was thinking, you would too. LOL. Now, the files are still on my webpage because after I noticed I could not open up that bottom row of tables on my FP program on my computer, I did not republish. So as far as the visitors go, my pics are still there for viewing. I noticed the background is still on some of my pic pages, and I can put it back on all of them with one click. But that is what I was trying to remove in order to be in compliance with my webserver (ICD). And this is not just this one webserver, but all sites that use the FP extensions will be changed soon. I was just trying to get ahead of the game and get it all in compliance before the cut-off date, which could begin in August. After I removed everything down to the bare bones, I am still left with FP extensions somewhere on this site. What I needed was a list of what all is included in the Shared Borders that I can remove. And yes, I would love to be able to get my picture folders back on my website program on my computer like they are on the actual website. Oh, I have a copy of the website on drive c, but it is automatically backed up once a week, so is probably not going to be any better than what I have now. As a last resort, I may try again to sync my files. Sure appreciate you trying to help. I'll try to be clearer! Ida

Used to use notepad here but I have found webbuilder 2006 to be a great programmers tool simply for its ability to show me instantly through my local dev sever the product I am making, whether that be xhtml or server side scripting. It also is great for having line numbers and color codes in the code which makes tracking down errors a breeze. It has full CSS/CSS2 support as well, with full tracking of requireds, includes, classes, fucntions, and variables.

This is happening when you are trying to connect to the web server, Correct? If so then check your settings that you put in to access the server. Maybe they use a different port to transfer with. When i was using FP 98 i made a shortcut to the editor and bypassed the rest of the program. Since i use a FTP program(Leap FTP)i did not need the rest of FP. FP 2000 is much more integratedand does not have the problems that FP 98 does . JamesS