I took this for you, 3rd year, grafted. Kind of pathetic after seeing it through my camera lens. I HAVE to prune out many winter kill canes, not much left after that, and I like to leave that pass thru for the mailman. For sure, I thought she was a goner this spring, but there are buds now. If I had a better spot for her, I'd move it because she is such a beauty, think she gets a little BS but one of the few that requires no spray or fussing. IOW, she sprawls and does not have a nice form. I'd prefer to let them do what they want within limits, don't prune according to the rules but as necessity demands; obviously mine wants to grow toward the pot for the sun which is sporadic for most of the day. Pls pardon the mess, I'm working on it, have been working harder in the back. I gave some enormous clover by the pot a big dose of boiling water, and have that huge clump of volunteer alyssum that I want to transplant as much out of there as I can (I like them). One plant last year spread like crazy and was nice all summer. I meant to save the seed but was bummed out last fall. They self seeded like crazy after all; it should be mulched better there but the kind I like is too expensive to buy as much as I need for the front. I'm sure other growers here have better specimens, wish I knew how big mine would get if I could site her better and took more care with her. In spite of it all, she blooms generously and straight thru the season with a pause only to form more buds after deadheading. The only solution is to move her, then I don't know what I'd replace with apart from perennials, but I want a rose there.

I was recently watching a video about sheets, fabrics and fitting. They said that the higher the thread count number the hotter the sheets will sleep. So if you are like me and sleep very hot it is not a good idea to go with a thread count over around 300. IF you live where it is really cold then go for the 800-1000 or over range. Have you seen the sleep tite sheets that have the elasticized sides, not just a band of elastic, but elastic up the sides? They are supposed to stay on the mattress no matter the size. I have a cuddle bed mattress topper that has that type of sides and it is great, stays put and so easy to put on because of that. Overstock has them and a little video to show how well they go on and stay. I have not tried them but if they work as well as the mattress topper I would love them.

I do think you can do something size and scale appropriate over a 30" range, depending on your ceiling height and budget. It just takes careful design consideration. And a healthy budget. It will take up at least 36" of space, or more to do properly though. In a small kitchen, where every bit of space is precious, that's why it's most often not done. It gobbles up space to do correctly, and doesn't play well with a low ceiling. Many small kitchens choose to do a metal chimney hood instead as a focal point. Most building codes will require that you maintain a full 30" clearance over the cooking surface for any combustible material, for fire safety. Wood is definitely combustible! For a 30" range, you would need at least a 36" wide x 27" deep hood over it, in order to be safe and comply with the code if portions of it are to be lower than that 30". Otherwise, you risk a fire. The first pic that writersblock posted, looks like it skirts legality. It's hard to tell from the angle that the pic was taken, but it looks like the hood is 30", not 36". It's also not deep enough over the cooking surface, as the sides come down to around 24" . That would be fine if the hood is actually 36" though. So it might, or might not work. The second hood, well count the (kinda blurry) 3x6 subway tile here for it's measurement. (I count 7 1/2 across and 11 up) It's at least 42" W and might be 48" W and it's wood is at least 33" from the cooking surface. Over a 36" cooking surface. It's more in proportion to the mantle look, and it complies with the fire codes. And it's height and width are proportionate for the 36" surface below, and not too tall and overpowering with the tall ceiling. If the hood were taller or narrower proportionately, it wouldn't work as well visually. The other gorilla in the room besides safety and proportion is cost. It's a MUCH more expensive choice than a standard metal chimney hood, and certainly more than an under cabinet hood. By the time you add up the insert, the electrical connection by the electrician, and the cabinet install, the hood below is in the range of a $4500 choice. Paint would have added 20%, and a higher CFM blower to really handle a pro BTU range, would have added another 1K. That's in a medium priced door in a medium grade cabinet line. Not a high end choice at all.

It is hard to find things of that nice quality for a reasonable price. Like bedsheets...percale...wonderful things..still have some flat sheets my Mother purchased!!... how long ago?? that do not wear out and do not wrinkle no matter how many times they wave on the clothesline or get washed. Been thru too many sets of sheets the past 15 years. They are almost slimey thin....they get balled up knots on the surface, the wrinkle like crazy. When Burlington Mills shut down, I think someone began making sheets from recycled panty hose? Really. They are not any thicker than 2 pair worn together. And no, I am not going to pay 300 dollars for bed sheets. $30 to $60 is the limit, and they will be used till they are in shreds..typically the bottom sheet goes first, and I have been known to put that percale flat sheet on for a rotation till the top shreds next... Nuts.