Question about short planks in wood flooring installation
Comments (12)
dpmomto3
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about hand beveling pine plank flooring
Comments (2)Decide how authentic you want the distressing to look, choose your tools and then practice, practice, practice...until you acquire the techniques that will give you the end result you're after. You can work the material some on the bench before installing it and then finish up the distressing work after it's down and before finishing. If you use a sander in your work, sand with the grain whenever possible. Pine will show cross-grain scratching more than other species. Sharp hand-operated scrapers can be employed also. Search the net for more information regarding tools and techniques for floor distressing....See MoreQuestion about length of hardwood flooring planks.
Comments (4)If one is willing to pay more, then you can get select or clear grades of flooring in long lengths (up to 16 feet) for most species. The commercial flooring industry typically buys #2 common lumber, the lowest grade/cost, and then cuts out the defects to produce higher grades of flooring like #1 common or select (albeit in narrow widths and/or short lengths). If a flooring manufacturer buys more expensive #1 common or FAS/Select lumber, then they have the ability to produce much wider and longer flooring boards in select or clear grades. The smaller flooring mills seem to do more of this than the larger manufacturers. Also, the Canadian manufacturers seem to be geared towards short boards as a standard. That said, the higher grades of red and white oak lumber are at very low prices right now, and some of this cost reduction may be passed along to consumers in the form of lower flooring prices for long length, high grade, plank flooring. It is a good time to buy, if you have the means to do so....See MoreFloating Wood Floor Problem - Question for Installers
Comments (22)Change in temperature = change in dimensions in the planks. Bamboo is NOT hardwood, therefore it has it's own issues outside of the normal issues with hardwood. And morning star has SERIOUS issues over time (go ahead and google LL and lawsuits....you will find DOZENS of class actions just waiting to go). I'm thinking this has TWO reasons for happening: Indoor living conditions. Something has changed and that needs to be looked at. 2. Improper install with not enough expansion left at the walls. As a floating floor, most of them will NEED transition strips at ALL doorways. Your FIRST priority will be to look at all your doorways (and pinch points such as hallways) to see if T-mouldings or thresholds were used. The SECOND priority is to REMOVE the baseboard in the area where this is occurring and MEASURE the gap between the floor and the drywall/vertical surface. Is it the REQUIRED gap? Go ahead and do this in an area that is UNAFFECTED and COMPARE the gaps. My spidy senses are telling me that a "too narrow" gap at install + change in household living conditions are to blame. The two put together have manifested itself into an issue. The fact that you have squeaks and the floor bounces tells me the subfloor condition was probably not dealt with to the degree needed to get rid of the noise. What is your subfloor? Plywood/OSB or concrete?...See MoreQuestion about installing tile wood look plank on kitchen floor
Comments (5)First, make sure the floor meets a deflection of no more than L360. I would probably use Ditra to help with flatness (to a degree) act as an isolation membrane and contain spills. Check for the degree of "cupping" by putting two of them face-to-face and see if there is substantial "rocking" of the tiles. If minimal, you can probably get by with HD's Versabond. Try to pick an installer that has experience with plank tile and insist on a 1/3 stagger to minimize lippage. 1/2 stagger WILL accentuate the problem. (don't ask how I know) A leveling system can help the final "tweaking" of the floor and may or may not be necessary...depending on the tile, the floor and the setter. It is not a cure-all........See Moreglennsfc
15 years agoHU-245424504
3 years ago
PROG & S Floor Service
3 years ago
Eli Branscome
2 years ago
millworkman
2 years ago
KME AG
last yearEli Branscome
last yearHU-500722715
last yearI have the same question. I am actually in the process of installing my own wood flooring ( firstfirst-time) and I was starting to do herringbone when I realized that all of the pieces were all different lengths, In every box, and now I have herringbone started in the middle, and I'm gonna have to just start racking the rest of the floor in some type of mixed length pattern. I have about 30 pieces of long plank left (6'x6") so I was trying to figure out where to place the long planks, mixed throughout the floor or all together in place Like near the hallway entrance. I hope that someone can help me. I've attached a picture
Lynny Bynny
last yearHU-500722715
last yearlast modified: last year
Decided to go with a diagonal pattern since herringbone was not possible with the different lengths. However this is easier and I didn't have to do any cutting of the tongue to fit like I would have had to do for the herringbone. Now that I've gotten most of the longer planks in place, the ones around the perimeter is where I will use the varying lengths. Thankfully all of the widths are the same (6 in) and I will have to choose between 1, 3, and 4 foot planks. I may alternate the three to get the best look since I already have zigzags, maybe I should randomly stagger the perimeter. I'm excited to see how's gonna turn out. Any suggestions are welcomed. Thanks.
marzhere