You’ll want/need to buy stainless steel screws. There should be short ones already in the door that you can take out and match, but get longer. For my dishwasher, the install involved taking these shorter screws out that were in place in the naked door and switching them to longer ones that then attached to panel to the naked door. At the bottom of the naked door there were spots for little clips that you lock in first before you screw in the screws. Without the clips you can probably just use more screws, but it might be trickier to get the door perfectly straight. There are quite a few short screws in the door to allow different door combos, for example a single door panel or a drawer front + shorter door combo, so you can use several sets of screws holes to attach your door. As for your door thickness, I think it’s more a question of weight than thickness. I can’t see why the thickness would be a problem. But the weight of your thick panel might create challenges. A new panel ready DW generally comes with door spring tension set for the average weight of a custom panel. I’d say that’s a 3/4”-1” thick solid wood door. (This means the naked door is very hard to open with no panel attached). Your thicker door may be notably heavy compared to what they’re expecting. So you may need to adjust the spring tension, or your door will crash open as you pull it down. My vague recollection from the instructions was that there’s a way to adjust this tension, but I’m not sure, as I didn’t have to adjust mine. But it might be worth researching to confirm before you commit to 1.5” thickness… or maybe you’re better off going with just drawer fronts attached to a frame instead of a solid plywood layer to keep the weight down. Good luck!

Molly, the journaling genies are different template shapes with lines that you trace onto your page and then use to journal. It creates a nice added touch instead of just "straight line" writing. They have some for every occasion: a "splash", cloud, fancy frame, titles...check out the link below for their complete line.. Hilary Here is a link that might be useful: journaling genies

Are you planning a 4" granite backsplash? If so, you have a lot of leeway on how the stone fits against the wall - nobody will ever see that edge. I guarantee you that your wall is not straight, so without a good template there will be wavy bits back there. If you're planning a tile backsplash, you'll have the thickness of that specific tile to cover any gaps. Think "oops" of 1/4" or less. If your granite runs right along a wall or cabinet without any tile, you have absolutely no room for less than perfection. We have 2 places like that in our kitchen where any imperfection would jump right out. There are industry standards for how close granite should fit against the wall. I think it's 1/8" plus or minus 1/16", and that means at any given point, not an average of the full length. You can look it up at The Marble Institute of America to be sure. If I were you, I'd have a written agreement on how your counters will fit. My biggest concern about tape measure only would be all those wavy parts of the wall which didn't get measured.

Respectfully, very respectfully, you are going to have a VERY hard time, if not an impossible time, to impose your desired way of comparing costs onto GCs, who by that point won't have very much interest in doing your project, because you will be perceived as difficult. I completely understand your desire to compare costs. But as I have stated before, the relative cost of building a highly complex house, with so many subcontractors, different types of materials, unknown zoning and weather issues, and every manner of thing that can arise during the build, means that in many/most cases, the things that arise like these things need to be handled with understanding, honesty, fairness, and what good will all of your cost-pickiness do for you then? You want so badly to remain in control of costs. You seem to think that you can control that, if only you can ascertain the lowest cost contractor. But which contractors will be most incentivized to go along with your picky requests up front? imho, it will probably be the least busy/less experienced, and the ones MOST interested in low-balling you. And then during the build, there will be excuse after excuse after excuse about why you need to pay more. You are entering into a 2-way relationship here. This is not a one-day deal you can make, but a year or more long relationship with someone you need to mesh with and trust. You are focusing on the wrong things, and trying to force contractors you do not know to conform to your one-off request. It is really, asking too much. All of your concerns about the costs of each individual part and piece of your new home can be addressed by speaking with past clients of your potential builders. Ask them: did you feel ripped off during your build? What happened when something went wrong with a supplier---excuses and delays, or what? Did the contractor return phone calls immediately? What kind of builder-client software interface do they use? Can you, the client, show up at the build any time you want? How often does the contractor visit your build site? Is he/she there every single workday or just once every 2 weeks? I'm asking you: what good will it do to know you're getting a better deal on the prefab trusses before you begin construction, when your GC (the lowest bidder), stops paying his subs and your jobsite is empty and no work is being done and the materials you already paid for/delivered are being stolen? Line item costs! This is the wrong thing to worry about.