TO REMOVE THE MOWER DECK FROM A HUSQVARNA TRACTOR LAWN MOWER requires disengaging five supporting contact points between the mower deck and the tractor. The user manual explains these clearly. Then there is also the need to disengage the mower clutch cable and spring from the mower deck's idler arm. The user manual (2012) describes this step based on an old version of the clutch cable (part number 532 43 51-10) that my model YTH21K46 does not have. The cable housing guide piece on my clutch cable is newer and different. The cable housing guide snaps into a bracket (part number 532 19 72-50) screwed onto the mower deck. Once snapped into the bracket thusly the clutch cable is anchored in place and provides the correct angle for the cable/spring's action as it engages and releases the mower's idler arm. Unsnapping the cable housing guide from the bracket involves a two-part step. Using pliers, squeeze the top plastic "prong" down on the part of the cable housing guide protruding on the right side from the bracket. With the prong down/compressed, pull the cable and housing guide to the left through the bracket. Once the guide is out, the cable wire can be separated from the bracket by lifting it through the narrow slot cut in the top of the bracket. With the cable now free of the bracket it's a piece of cake to detach the cable spring from the idler arm. I have attached a picture of the cable housing guide and the bracket after popping the guide out. (The bracket has been unscrewed from the mower deck in this photo.) To reinstall the cable in the bracket, slide the cable into the hole in the bracket and push the housing guide through until it snaps into place.

There is a product that my sister uses to remove wax, that you can get from a beauty supply place. She is an aesthetician and recommended it when I made a really dumb move - blowing out a candle with a huge pool of melted was. OK, so you know where the melted wax ended up - ON EVERYTING! I have a painted, white dining room table and that stuff really helped. It didn't ruin the finish either. Also, when my sister moved, her wax machine, full of melted wax, spilled onto everything - walls, floors, papers, furniture; you get the idea. She was able to use that stuff to remove the wax without any problems from everything but the papers. Let me go find the bottle to check the name - OK, it's Sure Clean by GiGi. I've used it for "melted plastic", and it worked for me. Also, I just called my very smart ex-husband to see what he thought. We had tree sap all over my car and he used alcohol to remove it. It didn't ruin the clearcoat finish. He said to tell you to use a hair dryer to warm up the plastic and then use rubbing alcohol to remove it. He said anything like that should work - just don't use any acid based product. I asked the dumb question on whether the alcohol would ruin the finish on your pan. The response - No, that's why they call it stainless steel!! Is he that smart, or me that dumb - OMG!! Anyway, hope you get results from at least one of all of our great suggestions. I've done the same thing many times with the plastic bags that bread comes in. LOL. gng Good luck - hope it helps.

Right now, I'm back to the Wiccanders floating: the actual patterned layer of cork seems thicker. I still haven't seen the 'good stuff' of theirs with the finish containing ceramics, but that one has me spooked because it can only be re-finished by a Wiccanders approved company, you can't just buy it and apply it yourself. That could relate to their pattent, though: maybe it will become available down the road. I like the Durodesign glue down too, though: very cushy, and I'd like the option of having a little more pattern than the floating stuff. Less impressed by Simple floors and the others, though. Not only is the face layer of cork thin, the cushion layer is thin, too. The upside of the simple floors version is that the finish is kind of grainy and matte: much less slippery than the others. The tounge and grove of their engineered seems to be the same as for Globus natural cork, which I don't have a sample of. Yet.

I do this every other day so it's become a lot easier for me over the years lol, but what I do is I start with the first step on top. I use pliers and a box cuter. I recommend using gloves if it's your first time as well. Now with the box cuter, cut the carpet from end to end. When you've done that use the pliers to get a better grip and tug hard and fast. It should come right off. For me the longer the carpet is, the easier it becomes to pull. After removing the carpet you'll still have some staples sticking out from underneath each stair lip, you can remove those with the pliers. To removed the pad, You can just rip it up by hand. It comes right off but you'll leave the staples behind tho, with a scraper you can scrape them right out easy. Use a crowbar to remove the tack strips. Shove the crowbar under each nail and bam it'll come right up. Don't worry about scratching the wood because if you're going to keep them as wood and not replace the carpet you'll have to completely sand and stain them all over again. They use staples for the carpet and pad, and nails for the tack strips. You'll have to get them sand and stained again. If the carpet company that installed the carpet on your stairs told you that it wouldn't damage anything underneath and that you can have the carpet removed and go about your day with out having to do extra work to the stairs they lied.