1. Should I have the floor go under the DW and range, or only up to these areas, then use something else of the same height as the floor (11mm I think) to bring the appliances to the right height? One floor rep said you have to bring the floor under the DW so that any leak stays ON TOP of the floor, but another said that any leak would likely get underneath the floor anyway, so it was easier to just run the floor along the front and use something else under the DW. I raise the front legs to the dishwasher, and go just under them enough so the legs will sit on the flooring when I screw them back down. The stove/range can be either. I like to remove the range, but if they are huge, I will go under the front legs. 2. This floor will go on a cement slab, and there is an exterior door in the room. How do I transition from the laminate to the door? Use the same squarenose molding they suggested for your carpet edges. 3. Can I use a T molding at the transitions from laminate to carpet? The Alloc brochure indicates using a square nose at the carpet, but the tack strip for the carpet had to get pulled up in the remodel, so I'd like something to secure and hide that carpet edge. NO, T molding will snap/break/come loose on the soft carpet. You need a square nose, as recommended. The carpet edge is secured with tackstrip and tucked to the squarenose molding. Pull the carpet and pad back. Install your square nose molding. Nail or urethane glue, the tackstrip, leaveing a gap between the squarenose molding, about the same size as the carpet is thick, a little tighter is better. Trim the pad back behind the tackstrip, and then stretch the carpet up on the tackstrips. Hopefully you have enough stretch to trim a little carpet for a clean edge to tuck into the gully(leave long enough to tuck) 4. Since I'm on cement, how do I secure T moldings, or door moldings? Is a construction adhesive OK? You can drill and peg dowl the concrete and then screw down that cheesy plastic channel. I mount the transition in the channel and then cut it to the length I need. Then I use good urethane adhesive, and glur the track down and weight it good. Do not get carried away with the adhesive, as you don't want it to ooze out and glue the laminate in, locking it

I can't inspect your jobsite, but from your description I can venture an educated guess: Your house is built on a concrete slab and that concrete is emitting moisture. That moisture is condensing on the vapor barrier and is resulting in the liquid water you see and, consequently, the mold and mildew growth. Before you install any new flooring product, find a flooring specialist who is knowledgeable about moisture and concrete and who can give you a prescription for correcting the problem. Lots of ways to reduce moisture transmission through concrete...the least costly being to correct any standing water issues outside the house near the foundation by providing roof runoff pathways to lead water away from the foundation and even by removing plantings that may be contributing to the problem. There are topically applied moisture barriers in both liquid applied and sheet versions that we use to 'seal' concrete slabs and prevent moisture migration.

I'm not an installer but laminate mfctrs make a T or an L molding that fits on a track. You glue the track to subfloor then the T part of the transition 'finishes' the laminate and still allows for expansion. I may be explaining it wrong but think you can understand the concept. You cant really nail down quarter round unless its not nailed to the floor. That would be the same idea as the transition and most likely much much cheaper to do.

Just wanted to update everybody on this thread... we finally found the time to move forward on this project. We ripped up 4-5 layers of flooring in our living room and dining room, including (1) laminate, (2) insulation layer, (3) parquet tiles, (4) plywood, and (5) some sort of cardboard base, along with two large jars worth of nails, all of which revealed... some very old wood! Then we refinished... and voila! Looks just like the upstairs! Thanks to everybody who provided input and encouraged me to go ahead and do this. This is 10x better than the laminate we had before.