My son and I laid hardwood floors in three rooms last year. First was a bedroom that is 15' x 14'. It was started by a wall and worked well. But the dining room and living room have a large archway. So he started in the center of the arch and worked to both sides to insure that the the boards would be straight from the middle out. It turned out beautifully. I cannot imagine why you would need to start in the center for a single room.

My honest opinion................hire a professional! I've done lots of remodel work and consider myself very handy, but refinishing a floor is something I won't touch. A relative just had their kitchen, entry and hallway refinished and I was there much of the time. It confirmed my thought that it's a backbreaking, tedious job and depending on the sealant it can be smelly and toxic. It can also be a very dirty job but this company was using a vacuum that took out nearly 100% of the dust as they sanded the floor.

I recently went through this carpet->wood on stairs conversion myself. We had 17 stairs + a landing and an extra step up to the landing. I used pre-finished 5" maple planks (engineered) on the treads to match the wood in the rest of the house. We bought pre-finished nosing for each step ($$$). For the risers I used 1/2" birch plywood painted white (nice contrast with the dark wood). Overall, I'm happy with the end result. However, it wasn't easy and took a long time. 1) it's a lot of work, and, if you don't put some thought and time into it, it will show 2) Walls and stairs are rarely straight, perpendicular, parallel, or aligned in any direction to make this job easier. Each and every cut will be unique 3) Our staircase has a stringer on each side - no balusters to worry about, but that doubles the number of unique cuts to make 4) pre-finished nosing is expensive. Our steps are 42" wide. The nosing comes in 78" sticks. I didn't want a splice in the nosing, so that meant one stick for every stair 5) After we started, I found some places online that sell one piece treads. I'm not sure that it would have been cheaper than fitting multiple planks on each step, but it would probably be a lot less cutting. 6) with 17 steps, the less trips down to the saw and up to test the fit on the top step the better. Of course the top stairs are probably going to be the ones hardest to get right I found the hardwoodflooringtalk website to be very useful during our entire install. There are several guides and a busy message forum. I recommend you (or DH) spend some time browsing it before starting. Unfortunately THS won't let me post a link to them here, but a google search for "hardwood flooring talk" should get you there. Good luck!

I also have read that Murphy's will "ruin" hardwood floors, in that it leaves a residue that prevents a new finish (when you are ready to refinish) from adhering. I was sick when my wonderful house sitter cleaned my Swedish finish floors with it. I also read it can soften/cloud the finish. I never was able to read/find what to do to try to undo the damage. They are fine now and it's been maybe 10 years, but don't know if they will ever be able to be refinished. ETA: here is something I found that might help: If you have solid hardwood with a urethane finish, using products like Murphys Oil Soap or Orange Glo can create a cloudy residue. To remove the residue, clean with a 1/2 vinegar, 1/2 water solution and a damp sponge -- Not overly wet. THEN dry with clean towels. Windex has been known to reduce the cloudy film as a 3rd part to this step... but you may have to do it every time you use water/vinegar Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4723640_effectively-clean-hardwood-floors.html