*** Update *** I was able to thread a 1/4" 20 tap and pulled out the fuel fitting as instructed. One follow up question. The service guide that I found on the web says to coat the fitting with "Loctite grade A" before pushing it back into the carb. I went to HD and there are 12 different Locktite products, none of which said Grade A. Any advice? I do have a blue Locktite liquid nut bolt locker in my toolbox. It says it is for wood and metal. I have used it on bolts in the past. Is this something I could use? Thanks so much for advising me! This post was edited by mustangm on Sun, May 25, 14 at 10:40

I'm very happy with the tractor. No mechanical issues except for a slow leak in a front tire. I have the HST model and the reverse is a little weak (probably not a good idea to go very fast in reverse anyway). Otherwise, the HST is awesome. We have 8.5 acres in E. Texas near Lake Quitman (4 mowable) and it has performed very well. I've used it to pull vines out of trees that we can't remove by hand. Mowing the 4 acres takes a full day but it's a lot of fun so I really don't care. I bought a rear-mounted toolbox on ebay to carry an axe, machette, and lopper shears while I mow. I don't know why Craftsman doesn't make that toolbox anymore, it's very handy. Overall, I think it's a very good machine. The 26hp B&S hasn't had any problem chewing through some pretty high Johnson grass but the mole mounds are a different story - just stear around them. The large tires and light weight are easy on the sandy soil and grass. I ran over some barbed wire that locked up the blades but after I detangled and cut the mess out, it started right up like nothing happened. One more thing: It's pretty nice being able to go to Sears on any weekend for parts. I forgot the keys to the tractor at home (2 hours away) but a Sears was just 10 minutes away so I ran down and bought a set of spares - nice.

I love questions with easy answers.... 1. If you have an opportunity to buy an Arts & Crafts house, do it. You are buying a uniquely American gem. For more information about these houses see Arts and Crafts Styles: Craftsman, Prairie and Four-Square Houses. 2. Keep your existing windows if at all possible. There are many good references on the web and in books detailing how to rehabilitate old windows. If you are deterred by the old sash weight balance system, there are a lot of replacement balances, including those that permit the window to tip in for easy cleaning. Blain Window Hardware is your source for all things window. 3. Recent DOE-funded studies show that a properly rehabilitated single glazed window with a storm window is just as energy efficient as a new double-glazed window. For historically correct wood custom made storm windows with sliding screens, check out Spencer Works. 4. Steam or (more likely) hot water radiator heat is the very best kind of heat. There are no drafts such as are created by forced air systems. You be amazed at how little dust you will have in your new house. To add cooling, I suggest a split sytem with one unit for the top floor run through the attic, and one for the bottom floor run through the basement. You can now get condensers (the outside part) that hang on the outside wall. Not the prettiest things, but they work. This dual zoning allows you to separately control cooling on each floor, so you can turn up the cool at night in the bedroom area, and dial it down in the day time. Vice-versa for the living areas on the first floor. This should be in the range of $8,000 or so for a 13 SEER high efficiency system. It's the duct work that adds cost. By splitting the system you keep ducting to a minimum. If space is very right, try a high velocity system with 4" ducts. These can be located nearly anywhere a water pipe can go. 5. To locate cat urine, use a black light. To eliminate cat urine stains and smells, call a cleaning service such as Service Master. These guys have the heavy duty equipment to make sure the job is done right. Good luck. A house this old is a continuing adventure.

HI Juliekcmo, I have electrician coming in a couple of weeks. I will ask about putting outlet there but that window faces a busy street and only the center bottom window opens (by design). So it's really not as nice as it appears to be. The whole upper window is a transom window and I doubt it's opened in 50 years and it's a very poor design as it's way too huge to be a transom window. I love the idea of the bed on this wall and it really would open up the room but I think there are too many things against it. knowing all of that, would you still try to get the bed in front of the window? thank you!!!!