No! All boards should be milled correctly and by saying that we are not necessarily talking about the "straightness" of the board. Many boards are likely to have a curve in them that gets straightened out during installation with a floor nailer.The milling issues wood be in the planing and routing of the board and would include things like chattering of the surface and tongues and grooves inconsistently cut. There will always be some culled boards but any reputable manufacture will have consistent milling of all size boards

As HandyMac explains. Are these glued/nailed/stapled??? How wide are the planks? Grade #1 White Oak should have a better width control than what we are seeing here. Many of the planks are tight and look very good. Others look like the installer did NOT stop to correct for a wonky sized plank. He just kept on going. Those planks need to be removed (they will never fit) if you are paying for a Grade#1 install as well. This doesn't look like shrinkage. This looks like the installer didn't cull the wonky planks (wonky is allowed in up to 5% of planks...which is why you need at least 5% waste with solid hardwood). With solid hardwood, the installer has to be diligent in culling the wonky planks. They missed a few. Go ahead and use blue painters tape to highlight the issues - the one's you want corrected. See how bad/good the overall install is once all the blue tags are down. It gives a MUCH BETTER perspective. Otherwise, the other areas look very good.

The individual who needs to verify that the moisture content of the hardwood strip flooring and the subfloor meet the manufacturer's installation guidelines is the installer--not the homeowner. While the interior environment in your home may be controlled, it sounds like you have a vented crawl space. The conditions (temperature and relative humidity) in a vented crawl space can vary depending on the exterior temperature and relative humidity. The equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of your subfloor (and to some extent your hardwood flooring) will also vary as a function of those conditions. The USDA's Forest Products Lab has compiled EMC data by month for various locations in the U.S.: https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/equilibrium_moisture_content.pdf If you look at the data for Fresno, CA you'll see that the EMC varies by month from a low of 7.8% to a high of 16.6% Trying to get the EMC of your subfloor below the EMC for the given exterior conditions wouldn't do much good if the crawl space is vented. The best case for stable hardwood floors is to maintain relatively constant conditions throughout the year. To this end, I suggest you consult with a local building scientist about the benefits and cost of converting your vented crawl space to a sealed, conditioned crawl space. By keeping the conditions in the crawl closer to those of the conditioned living space, you should have less seasonal movement due to changes in relative humidity.

Your floor looks like it has a factory finish. The regular edges look to be micro-bevels. This can be seen (no gaps...nothing exciting...completely normal) in pics #2, 3 and 4. This is the normal look of bevelled edges. The FIRST photo is my concern...there is too much of a gap for a bevel. Can you take a photo a little further back of that one...? If this is the ONLY one that has the 'wrong' look, then it can probably be fixed by increasing the humidity in your home. The other photos show beautifully installed factory finished floors (with a microbevel edge). Go ahead and google 'bevel edge floor'. The bevel simply means there is an 'eased shoulder' on each plank. This is to make it easier for the installer. I'm sorry but if the bevels disturb you, you will need to pay for the floor to be removed and a site-finished hardwood installed. The 'site finish' is what gives the flat surface that most people believe is the gold standard for wood floors.