The lines between custom and semi-custom have become increasingly blurred. Used to be that custom meant you could get any wood specie you want, in any door style you want, in any color or finish choice you want. Many smaller, local builders call themselves custom, but in many cases you can get "more custom" work from brands that call themselves semi-custom. Showplace will build custom configured cabinets (you draw it, they build it), or you can modify a standard cabinet to the 1/16" -- they also offer custom painted finishes, but they call themselves semi-custom because you must live with the styles and species they offer. The best advise is to research your options and, as others have said, make a good product-service-installation value decision based on what is most important to you. It is always most helpful also to talk with friends, family, co-workers, etc. and see if they, or someone they know, have done a project and could make a recommendation. Here is a link to a planning guide that is helpful. Admittedly, the content eventually moves toward Showplace offerings, but much of the early content is viable regardless of the brand you choose. Here is a link that might be useful: Cabinet Planning Workbook

First, I don't understand how what you have is a cost plus contract. Unless I am not understanding the process you are ending up with none of the benefits of a cost plus contract and probably all of the exposure, which you are not even in a position to know. There is a thread that I suggest you read here on GW - fixed-vs-cost-plus-contracts. Pay special attention to the things that cookncarpenter and renovator8 say. I think you will see the deficiency in what you have. To quote a portion of what Cook says in that thread here - After an initial meeting to discuss the project and what the contractual basis and subsequently my fee will be, the owner supplies me approved plans to distribute to subs for bid. I then compile all the proposals from my subs, which are fixed bids, spelling out exactly what their contract includes and excludes. I then share and review these bids openly with owner, and we discuss possibly alternate or multiple bids in some categories if the budget is not met on the first pass. These fixed bid costs are passed on directly to the owner, and my client now knows the "cost" and my fee (which is usually a percentage, but not always) and has already been negotiated, therefore another known cost. Next, I am having trouble understanding your math for the siding so I just, looked at your plans and got the amount needed, then got a per piece price for downtown LA and compared it with here. California came out slightly cheaper, I assume James Hardie's plant is closer to California. Then called my lumber yard to see what we were looking at for a full quote. The materials quote for full retail in my area came out to $10,339 and install would be much less than $6,000, my actual quote since I am building a house with their wood came back at $7,443. Using full retail prices, with siding installers (which would be more than using framers already on site), and fully trimming out a craftsman style house you are going to be much less than $10 - $12 per square.

The entire section from MIA Page 8 linked above: 14. ALLOWABLE REPAIR Stone countertops in need of repair require competent, experienced artisans to achieve the desired results. Repairing stone is permitted when the refurbished region is not in a structurally significant area of the countertop, and when it can be accomplished skillfully so that the repair is consistent in color and texture with the rest of the slab. Fissures occur naturally in many stone types. A fissure is defined by the American Geological Institute as “an extensive crack, break, or fracture in the rock, which may contain mineral-bearing material.” The term “fissure” is used commercially in the stone industry to describe a visible separation along intercrystalline boundaries or the voids between mineral crystals. This separation may start and stop within the field of the stone or extend through an edge. A fissure differs from a crack in that it is a naturally occurring feature in the stone. Cracks occur in stones as a result of mechanically induced stresses during handling, fabrication, transport, or installation. When cracks are detected in slab material prior to fabrication, the best method is to simply avoid them during the layout process. In stones with lesser soundness properties, this option may not be practical, or possible. When working with such stones it is common practice to repair cracks by cementing them together with epoxy or polyester resin, either with or without dowel reinforcement. Cracks that occur as a result of handling-induced stresses are often more difficult to repair, as they commonly include chipping in addition to the crack. Repair is frequently performed by injection of a penetrating resin adhesive, which may be dyed to match the stone, and then rebuffing the area after curing of the resin. In many cases, the entire stone must be repolished to make the repair unnoticeable. If the repair is attempted but unsuccessful, Chips can occur in stones either as a result of sawing operations or handling and restraint devices. Particularly in the igneous stone varieties, the exiting portion of the diamond blade will create many small chips. A small chamfer, called an arris, of approximately 1/16" x 1/16" (1.5 x 1.5 mm) can be used to eliminate most of these small chips. The use of an arris will make the seam appear wider than its actual dimension when filled. Larger chips may be repaired with epoxy or polyester resin if the completed repair is consistent in color and texture with unrepaired areas of the slab. In many materials, the resin used in the repair will appear more natural if it is not dyed. Pitting of the countertop surface, particularly in granite material, is a commonly seen characteristic on natural stone. Granites are made up of several different minerals, each mineral having a different hardness. Granites contain quartz, feldspars, biotite, amphibole, ferrous titanium oxides, and other mineral combinations. On the Mohs Scale (see insert on page 7), diamonds are the hardest mineral, with a rating of 10. Quartz and feldspar have a hardness of 6.5 to 7 and are very durable. Biotite (also known as mica) on the other hand is very soft (2.5) and flakes easily. All true granites have biotite in their composition. Because biotite is relatively soft and flaky, the first few layers are removed during the polishing process, causing pits throughout the slab. Some granites have more biotite throughout their composition than others. The higher the biotite content of the stone, the more pits it will have. Most polished igneous rocks will have varying degrees of pits, depending on the amount of biotite, muscovite, and phlogopite in their composition. The pits do not make the granite less durable or otherwise inferior, and do not in themselves qualify the slab for replacement. Pits are common in all granites and should be expected when dealing with a natural, polished stone containing several types of minerals of varying hardness. It is usually best to not attempt repair of pits, as most repair techniques will not cosmetically improve the countertop.

I doubt there's much you can do. There's a right of way extending into your property that varies depending on the type of road and your local ordinances. They usually do return the area to a 'visually' similar condition, but they aren't going to care about the condition of the soil. I have a piece of property which has 3 sets of 3 high voltage power lines running through it. The right of away for that specific circumstance is detailed in my deed, and precludes me from certain uses such as building structures, or even growing trees taller than like 15'. However, as others have said, it's worth calling them. About 2 years ago the Water Dept. dug up the area around my mailbox to replace my (they did the entire street) sewer connection and clean-out. I went out to find out what they were doing exactly, and to ask them their protocols for putting it back as they found it. Their response was that they do try their best to be minimally invasive, and they would try not to disturb too much. They didn't put it back exactly, but they also didn't do too bad. I lost some bulbs of course, but they made my mailbox post better than it was before. My only real complaint was that, while they did put the raised circle of bricks back, they formed it around gravel instead of the soil bed that was there. Bulbs did come up, but only a few in the bed, some like 8' away lol.